That should be included with booster. It was on the kit I bought from Steve and is installed in mine.

What year is your car and what kit did you buy?  The boosters I sell for 67-70 Mustangs have the plate like that attached to the booster before I ship it. The 65/66 version does not use that plate at all.

If using Bendix booster, you need the plate.  The Midland booster (clamp band type) would be the correct booster for your car, although I prefer the bendix for functionality.

OK I got the plate that goes between the Bendix booster and firewall (67 thru 72 Mustang) but the booster studs do not line up with the plate holes.  The drivers side lower hole is at least an inch lower than the plate hole, then there is no bottom stud on the booster for the hole that has to be drilled in the dimple as per the instructions.  In the picture notice only four studs on the booster. Can anybody identify what I have or tell me what I need to install this booster.  Thanks

That's a fox body mustang booster. Those boosters have that offset mounting pattern. What years the car and what modifications have you all done so we can do our best job in guiding you in the direction that you need to be in.

Last edited by True74yamaha (8/06/2015 9:26 PM)

Do you have a picture of the modified pedal hanger that we could see please and thank you? If it has the correct mounting for that booster then all that will be needed to do is simple the larger hole where the master cylinder Rod went threw will need to be enlarged so the booster rod will go threw the firewall. Then if I remember correctly Youll need to drill two more holes to be able to mount the pedal hanger assembly.

On another note the old original spindles that you had are actually the same thing as a v8 spindle all that's different is that it has a four lug hub on it instead of a five lug hub.  If you wanted to use MS brake kits for front discs instead of the Granada brakes you could do so just by sourcing some new v8 hubs that are easy to come by.

No you don't need anything else.  Just a drill bit to make those new holes in the firewall and for the big hole for the rod. I used my 3" cut off wheel with out the guard and was able to cut a perfect hole in the firewall. Just make sure you use the templet print out that steve sends you when you use his booster. That templet will let you trace the nessisary holes that you will need to make to be able to install the booster.

Next if you haven't purchased them already you will need a proportioning valve and new dual bowl master cylinder some 3/16" brake line. If you use the copper nickle plated lines you can purchase a roll of it. That type of line straightens nicely. To be able to double flare the line a bench vise is important to have as well as your double flare bar. line cutter and reamer (a wood pilot hole bit works nice for this). If you have a regular flare bar for plumbing you can use it but you will need to purchase a double flare end that is seperate from the bar. Fed hill sells them and same with other places. I bought a cheap harbor freight double flare bar and used the double flare ends. With one of my ole USA made flare bars for plumbing and it works great. If you haven't made double flare brake ends before I'd get on YouTube and watch a couple vids. Hope this helps.

You are all set up for the booster to be installed except for drilling new holes and expanding the one main hole for the booster.