As far as I know if your just upgrading the booster and changing to a disc brake pedal, then the pedal support doesnt need to be removed. I installed the kit from Steve awhile back on my '67 a few months ago.

I think you do need to loosen the pedal assembly...  I remember having the pedal assembly in and having to loosen it and probably pull it back some on my Mach 1 to install the booster ...booster and m/c go in as a unit..but with the seat out should be alot easier...just do what you need to do and you will be the new go to guy....jj 

I drilled out my holes and enlarged my center hole without removing the pedal support as I didnt know you needed to.

Welcome to the forum Gerald. If my memory serves me correctly, I believe the column needs to be removed to replace the pedal support. I can't remember if the column will drop enough after the 4 bolts attaching the seal at the firewall are removed.

I went the Other way on my Mach. Power to Manual and added a 3rd pedal. The Steering Column ws never taken out of the car and I believe the only reason I took out the Pedal assembly was for a Repairing of the bushing, used the weld in Roller Bearing ones from Steve. If those are not an issue the Clutch and Brake pedal can be removed, definately easier with the Front Seat out... And removing the Pedal Assembly is not that difficult either, but again not needed for a Pedal change.

His car already has 70 drum spindles.

He will have to drill out the swedged, threaded inserts in the front flanges of the pedal support, where the MC and two other attaching bolts now reside.  This is so the booster studs have a hole they can fit through.  With a Cleveland in place, it will be easier to just remove the pedal support and do it on the workbench.  At the same time, my ballbearing shaft kit can be installed.

This is not a difficult task to remove the pedal support.  It just requires that you remove everything bolted to it before you can unbolt it from the car.  Steering column removal is not required, but you WILL be unbolting the column from the bottom of the dash/pedal support.  It is tedious, but just use some common sense and start unbolting stuff.  If you are not confident you will ever get it back together, take lots of pictures as you go.

Tip:  In order to reinstall the override spring in your clutch pedal, do it with the support out of the car.  Simply push the clutch pedal as if you were pushing it 6" farther forward than it can possibly go when bolted in the car.  The spring will drop right in.  Then pull the pedal back against the pedal stop and install the assembly.  Be careful, as that spring will force the pedal to move forcefully in both directions once it cams over center.  Keep your fingers out of the way.  The override spring is removed in the same manner.  Just push the pedal forward. The spring CAN be done with the pedal in the car.  I did it once and will never do it again. Took forever and learned an entire new vocabulary in the process.

The spring is installed with the pedal assembly out of the car as I described.  It is real easy that way.  You cannot easily do it in the car because you cannot push the clutch pedal through the floor as required.

Mach1_Ron I sent you a pm.

The bearing shaft kit requires welding.  There are kits that do not weld on, but they all use the 5/8" shaft on your clutch pedal as their inner race where mine has its own hardened race,  The shaft is softer than a bearing race and will wear quickly, plus most shafts are not in perfect shape to work as a bearing race.  My sealed bearing kit solves all those problems but, like alot of my stuff, is more difficult to install.  I refuse to sacrifice quality or function for the sake of easy installation.  Its the old DO IT RIGHT OR DO IT OVER thing. 

Alot of guys send their pedal assembly to me to be professionally built for their exact needs so there is no guesswork going on with a part that is very tedious to remove and reinstall.

The bearings go on the clutch pedal shaft, which is made onto the clutch pedal. The current brake pedal swings from that shaft, but that brake pedal goes away and the power brake pedal pivots from a 3/8" bolt about 3" higher in the pedal support. 

You have to remove the spring before the clutch pedal can be removed to get the old brake pedal out.
You can ship it to me as an assembly or disassembled. I get them both ways, but it will save money on shipping to do it disassembled so it can go in a smaller box. That is the way it will be when I ship it back to you. I carefully assemble it so I know everything fits properly, then disassemble it for shipping.

Ok, now I am more confused than ever. I had been researching kits with SSB and MPB. Another thread reported finding S10 Blazer calipers. I spoke with SSB and their MC will not bolt up to an OE booster, which I was planning. I also found out that the lead time for these kits is 3/4 weeks. I talked to Classic Tube about lines and they said they have a complete kit, brakes, booster, rotors, pedal, etc and complete lines.
Has anyone had any experience with them?
I really don't want to piece meal parts from multiple companies.
One way or the other, the car is up on stands, wheels off and I will start taking the front drums off and drain the lines this weekend

Been over a week since the last post.
This weekend got the brake lines free, front seat out for easier acceess to the pedal assembly.  Steve, you were right, just keep taking things off until it comes free. All the connections to the pedal assembly came off, master cylinder, pedals removed and the pedal assembly bracket, finally out.  With the steering column in, there is no way to remove the pedal assembly intact.
Pedal assembly and bearing repair is next.
Steve, I sent you a PM.
Gerald