No, you need a disc drum master cylinder for that application.  If you want to use an aluminum master with plastic tank, the 92 Ranger disc/drum MC with 1" bore will work great.  It has ISO Metric ports on the driver side.

Just get the bubble flare tube nuts or buy a stick from the auto parts store with the right fittings on it. I got a cheap bubble flare tool from harbor freight and it worked flawlessly. I actually have bubble flare on every brake line without any flare joints. Once I did a few flares, I decided not to mess with the inverted flare any more.

BobN

When I use a metric master cylinder, I just buy a stick of brake tubing that has both ends flared with a bubble flare fitting, then cut it in half.  That gives me both tubes from the MC to the proportioning valve.  Since the metric tubing and the SAE sized tubing is exactly the same diameter, you can flare the opposite end with SAE fittings to mate up to any SAE connections on the car.

Steve69, you get 50 lashes with a wet battery cable for suggesting the use of an adapter!

I don't know nuthin' about brakes but I do want to say, "Welcome to the Forum".  Best place on the web.  I strongly suggest you get that HT back on the road and test-drive it to Montrose, CO next June.  It's gonna be great BASH.

BB

MustangSteve wrote:

When I use a metric master cylinder, I just buy a stick of brake tubing that has both ends flared with a bubble flare fitting, then cut it in half.  That gives me both tubes from the MC to the proportioning valve.  Since the metric tubing and the SAE sized tubing is exactly the same diameter, you can flare the opposite end with SAE fittings to mate up to any SAE connections on the car.

Steve69, you get 50 lashes with a wet battery cable for suggesting the use of an adapter!

  LOL!  I forgot about MS Adapter rule with Brake Lines...LOL   
 

Oreo wrote:

....Ultrastang I know there will be some fabrication required on my part and I do have the flair tools, tubing cutters etc. I was actually going in the direction MustangSteve recommended. The install will be quite a bit easier with the entire drive train out. Should allow me to fit and tuck every line with the body lines. It's not going to be a show car but I do like things nice and clean.

I've fabricated one or two lines before. 








 






This setup (in photos below) was at a time when I didn't have direct connection brake line fittings to connect straight to the MC ports of this SN95 V6 MC (it uses the same size fittings as the Explorer MC in the very 1st picture above).  At the time I was working on this project (late 2003/2004), Glen Buzek and I were working on an SN95 V6/GT rear disc brake conversion bracket for early Mustangs and related Fords.

At the time, I was searching for a suitable 4-wheel disc MC to use with this setup. This involved lots of searching in wreckjng yards, looking at MCs at the parts stores and the Ford dealership and extensive searching on the internet. In 2004, the two most common 4-wheel disc MCS that would turn up in an internet search was either a Mopar MC with an aluminum body and black plastic reservoir or, the Corvette cast iron MC. I didn't want to use either one of these. I wanted to use a modern Ford 4-wheel disc brake MC. It finally dawned on me that the obvious, logical choice for this conversion was to use the SN95 V6 MC designed for these brakes.

I bought a new SN95 Mustang V6 MC from the Ford place, installed and plumbed it up and tested out the rear brake conversion on a '65 Fastback. After everything worked out, I posted several photos of the conversion here and at various Mustang forums when I did this installation in 2004. Before 2004, there was zero information, photos or talk of this MC being used in an early Mustang or related Ford. Today, since I posted these photos back in '04, there's information all over the internet of people using/mentioning an SN95 Mustang MC's use in an old Mustang or Ford.

These are some of the photos of the SN95 Mustang V6 MC and rear disc brakes on a '65 fastback, I posted on the forums 11 years ago.

Oreo wrote:

Great pics, yeah have done a LOT of reading and your name seems to pop up quite a bit in my research. I have always coiling of the MC feed lines to distribution block. From what I have read it doesn't do much of anything except provide a little flex if needed in the lines. Its more of a visual preference for me. I see in the first pic you have the distribution block wired in. Are you using that as your brake sw?

The 1st picture in my previous post is the current setup in my 1969 Ford F100 Ranger short bed pickup. Originally my truck had manual 4-wheel drums all the way around.




In 2012, I added a Bendix dual diaphragm brake booster from a 1975 Ford F350 1-ton truck but, still with drums all the way around on my truck.




In October of last year, I began removing the stock '69 drums/I-beam front suspension and replaced them with a disc brake I-beam front suspension from a '77 F100.  The components consists of: 1977 F100 front discs, 1975 F350 Bendix dual diaphragm brake booster, disc/drum brake valve from an '84 Ford pickup and a MC for a 1995 Ford Explorer.



Ford vehicles from 1967-onward were all factory equipped with tandem brake MCs. It was also when the pressure differential valves came into use, to warn of a hydraulic failure or shift in pressure between the two brake circuits. The warning switch is powered off of the Prove Out terminal on the ignition switch. It is always hot so long as the ignition is on. The only thing that breaks the circuit is the pressure differential valve spool inside the valve body. As long as the spool stays centered, the warning light will remain off. If the spool shifts, it closes the contacts on the switch sticking out of the valve assembly. This completes a path to ground which illuminates the Brake Warning light on the dash ('67-later models).

Since my truck is a '69 model, it was already designed for a brake warning light circuit and a wiring connector for the brake warning switch on the brake valve.

Coiled brake lines do give some extra ease when it comes to lining the fittings up to the MC ports. It also gives some flexibility to the lines to keep them from stress cracking at the flares, since the MC at one end of the tubing and the brake valve at the opposite end are generally mounted to surfaces that are in two different planes (the two surfaces don't flex/distort at the same rate).