rmousir wrote:

Hi 6sally6,

Are you sure you want a bubble flair?  I'm pretty sure you want a standard flair.  Unless I have them backwards.  I have scarebird brackets as well.  I might have it backwards but I think you want a standard flair.

 Ye got it back--oh no I used a word I shouldn't have--werds......Standerd flair(like on copper tubing) will crack and split on steel tubing.
Thanx though,
6sal6

MustangSteve wrote:

This is for SAE INVERTED FLARE.  I do not do bubble flares.  Normally, the little black die has a raised edge on the OD.  Place it flat against the tube clamp and extend the tube out of the clamp exactly the same distance as that mark, or ridge, on the die.  Then put the die over the tube and tighten the clamp until the die is flat against the clamp.  Then remove the die and use the flared point of the clamp (oil it first) to complete the flare.  The key thing at this point is to NOT tighten that sucker down tight!  It usually only takes 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn once contact is made to form the flare.  Leave it like that, not fully flattened, and let the tube nut do the final flare in the female fitting.  That assures soft enough material so the tubing will seal properly.

Before you start the flare, be sure the end you cut is perfectly square and has been deburred.  I use the tip of my pocket knife to stick lightly in the tube and spin the blade around until the tubing is opened up completely.  Use 400 grit or a file to be sure it is clean inside and out from any burrs.  Also, be sure to place the tube nut on the tubing before making the flare!

 This is SAE inverted flare that you need.