What are the cam specs?

BobE, just use test springs.  They are very light springs the same (or almost) size as the regular springs you are using except much smaller wire.  The pressure is light enough that it will not compress the hydraulic lifter, but will hold the valve in the closed position.  Rotate engine so the piston is on TDC - opposite compression stroke - and simply mash down on the top of the valve or rocker arm.
Don't know of a source for the springs, I've had ma set for a very long time.  Maybe ask Edelbrock.
Good Luck

With the head on you can test the valve to piston clearance with the correct springs and push rods and rockers you plan to use by placing a hundred thousandth feeler gauge between the rocker and the top of the valve stem...rotate the engine very slowly by hand for any indication of a bind... of course for testing you must use a solid type lifter of the same dimensions as you are planning to run ...I have used a fully pumped up hydrulic lifter in place of a solid but you have to really watch it to be sure it stays firm...be sure to set lash properly in all testing....jj

Last edited by jerseyjoe (2/19/2016 8:32 AM)

What if you took a lifter apart and packed it full of heavy grease?  Then clean it out and reassemble after you have checked clearance.
Is this some special engine with super big cam and special pistons or is it a run of the mill 289, 302 or 5.0 type?

Tootsie Rolls make great "clay" for checking clearance, if you even need to.

MachTJ wrote:

Can't you take apart the lifter and remove the spring and cut a chunk of like a large bolt and put it inside and put the plunger piece back in with the snap ring.

Yes ...be exacting....jj

BobE wrote:

OK, thanks to all for the input.
To respond to questions ... I just want to avoid pulling the head.  I have clay, degree wheel, dial indicator, light test springs etc , etc., and will pull the head if the I have to and check the "normal" way.
I plan to set a zero lash, starting at 20 degrees BTDC and using a dial indicator on the valve spring, tighten down the valve adjuster until contact with the piston is made, loosen the adjuster back to "zero" and repeat this process every few degrees to about 20 degrees ATDC for both the intake and exhaust valves.  This will provide enough data to verify whether clearance is a concern or not.  I like jerseyjoe's recommendation and may use it instead.
I inquired w/Edelbrock about removing the internal lifter spring, replace with something solid (washers), and than re-install the spring after, they responded that they do not recommend this method, and recommended buying a spare (Crane) if I wanted to go that route.
I do not believe I will have piston to valve issues, but do not want to find out the hard way.
The cam I'm going to use the an Edelbrock #2281, lift is 0.573" (Int) & 0.582" (Exh) engine has the stock 9.5:1 compression pistons.  I'm replacing an Edelbrock # 7182, 0.496" (Int) & 0.520" (Exh).
Bullet Bob - I'll send you a PM.

Thanks again to all for your recommendations..

Bob,be sure to test both intake and exhaust valve lift...2 full revolutions each......I checked out your cam ...nice street /performance choice....jj

Last edited by jerseyjoe (2/20/2016 10:51 AM)

Also remember if you do end up pulling the head to check, be sure to use a new gasket with the same compressed thickness as what you will run. Preferably the same part#.