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I have a 66 fastback and like the Shelby hood scoop. Do the bond on ones crack around the edges? Do the bolt on ones fit flush on the hood? Any pics of bolt on installed? Thanks
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I put the hood scoop from a 69 Mustang on mine and bolted it on. Left it on for a couple of years but it never "grew on me" like I thought..so I removed it. (that was 3 hoods ago!)
From what I've "heard" the fiberglass bonded on eventually develop cracks. Bolted on with a gasket underneath would be my choice.
6s6
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If you have straight unmolested original hood you may want to consider selling it rather than cutting a hole in it. It would be better to cut a hole in an aftermarket hood or even going for a 'glass hood for what you might get out of your original. The re-pops apparently don't measure up making good original hoods much harder to find.
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I would go for a bolt-on. I have seen too many bonded ones that are cracked and coming apart. Like with any fiberglass part, you expect to have to do some work on the scoop to make it fit well. Once you get the bolt holes located, stretch some Saran wrap across the area where the scoop will bolt down. Rough up the bottom of the scoop with some 40 grit and apply a thin layer of bondo on the scoop where it will mate with the hood. Press the scoop firmly in place until the bondo sets up. Then remove the scoop (that is where the Saran Wrap comes in) and file off the bondo, leaving the new parting line that perfectly matches your hood's surface. Then once you paint the scoop, it will perfectly match the hood with a nice, even, barely visible parting line. To me, the barely visible gap is better to have than cracks later on.
If you want a true bonded scoop, then go for a glass hood that has the scoop as part of it. Then you just have to fret with getting the entire hood to look like it actually belongs on the car. But they do look good once the work has been done!
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This is a bolt on hoodscoop from Branda that was done around 6 years ago, possible longer. To date, it has not cracked. I drilled and installed it, then the guy who did the stripes used a body panel type adhesive to bond it on.
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JamesW wrote:
This is a bolt on hoodscoop from Branda that was done around 6 years ago, possible longer. To date, it has not cracked. I drilled and installed it, then the guy who did the stripes used a body panel type adhesive to bond it on.
I just finished using 3M panel bonding adhesive to attach an old fiberglass hood to a metal frame and I can also attest to how strong the bond is. I can also affirm MS's remark about how much work it is to get a fiberglass hood (at least the one I have) to fit perfectly. If I had to do it all over, I would have stuck w/ the metal hood and bonded on the scoop w/ panel bonding adhesive like JamesW.
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James, how many MILES are on the hood? Might mean more than how many years it sat on the car.
Today's bonding stuff is probably better than that of ten years ago, but hoods do flex alot.
Personally, I think either installation method looks perfectly fine if not on an original Shelby. The worst thing that can happen is you do it over in a few years.
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I found and ordered a steel gt-350 hood scoop. Should I bond it or weld it? I'm just a novice welder. Does the bond stay strong forever?
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Ernest wrote:
I found and ordered a steel gt-350 hood scoop. Should I bond it or weld it? I'm just a novice welder. Does the bond stay strong forever?
Although as I mentioned, I was impressed by the panel bond, there is no substitute for welding. I would therefore weld it. If you use a MIG and go around the scoop with tack welds, alternating sides and allowing the welds to cool, you will likely not have any warping issues. You can also surround the hood scoop with wet rags to make absolutely sure. Take similar precautions when you grind down the weld.
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Ernest, does the steel scoop have a flange underneath so it can be plug-welded from the bottom? Or just a straight edge that butts into the top of the hood?
Even if it has a straight edge, you could weld a steel angle to the inside of the scoop sides that could then be welded from the underside.
Keep in mind if you show the car, the underside of the hood modifications need to look as good as the top.
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Pic looks like it has a flange that goes out not in. Could I plug weld from the top?
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Sure. Just be sure you have zero air gap between the scoop and hood before you hit the trigger or it will burn through.
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Main problem with bond type hood scoops and any other type of add on or repair to say newer cars etc, is that the people using the adhesive don't usually realize that it shrinks!! If you were to get a bolt on hood scoop one could easily drill and mount the hood scoop along with using adhesive. The reason as to why people get cracks in the adhesive is because of improper taper on the substrate! The correct way to use an adhesive bedsides the obvious noted on the package. Is you need to bevel out the spot in which the part will be mounted to. I know this sounds odd when talkin about a hood but the tapering method is essential to repairing many things.
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MS wrote:
James, how many MILES are on the hood? Might mean more than how many years it sat on the car.
Today's bonding stuff is probably better than that of ten years ago, but hoods do flex alot.
Personally, I think either installation method looks perfectly fine if not on an original Shelby. The worst thing that can happen is you do it over in a few years.
Not a lot...less than 1000 miles in the last 6 years. Probably average 30 mile outtings at a time.
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