In response to requests for details about my hydro boost install from the post  “Electric vacuum pump to assist power brake booster” .

Recently completed upgrading my power brakes from vacuum assist to hydro boost on my 1966 Coupe.  I have 4 wheel disc brakes but was not pleased with the performance of the vacuum assist.  The hydro booster and master cylinder clear the shock tower with about an inch to spare.  You have to install the master cylinder after the booster is mounted as it will not slip in as one unit.  I installed the Mustang Steve pedal pin but not the firewall plate. The factory brake light switch would not clear the steering column and I was not going to dent my IDIDIT tilt column,  so a micro switch is used for a brake lights.  Now the brakes and pedal feel are VERY GOOD.  

• Astro Van hydro boost, 1995

• Master Cylinder 2003 S10 truck /  NM3097 (Autozone) 

The brake lines are on the engine (right) side, if you can find a master cylinder for a right hand drive S10 the brake lines are on the left side.

• Tallon Hydraulics adapter plate THI-8015

• Tallon Hydraulics AN-6 fittings THI-1000, for hydro boost pressure lines.

• Borgeson fitting 925121 16MM x 1.5 to AN-6 /  power steering box pressure line. 

• Tallon Hydraulics pedal rod THI-4001 2.5”or 3” may need to trim to fit.

I pulled the factory pedal rod out of the hydro boost and re-installed the Tallon part.

• Tallon Hydraulics pedal rod adapter THI-109  /  Had to drill out the hole for the pedal pin.

• Tallon Hydraulics return line tee THI-601

 

• Tallon Hydraulics power piston rod THI-3025 (custom length)

 
I made my own power piston rod from a 3/8” grade 8 bolt.  You must measure the distance from the flange of the hydro boost to the bottom of the seat where the power rod goes and subtract the distance from the flange of the master cylinder to the bottom of the seat where the power piston rod and then subtract 0.015” for clearance.

Tallon Hydraulics power piston return spring THI-27288, allows you to remove power piston rod without removing the spring. (optional but nice if you need to take the piston power rod out to adjust the length).​
I made my own from a washer and plastic bushing, if fits under the spring (see below).
 
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You need to install the booster and lines prior to installing the master cylinder.  Remove the bolts that hold the master cylinder to the booster, they are left hand thread.  Maneuver the master cylinder into place and re-install the mounting bolts.
 







 
Love the new brake feel.

 Dennis
 

Last edited by Dkralc (2/26/2016 11:59 AM)