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Need help and suggestions on an oil leak. New engine. 302 roller based 331. 10.2 to1 compresssion. Does not appear to leak when kept below 3500 rpm. In higher rpm range, around 5000 rpm, it appears to be spraying oil on the headers. The oil burns on the headers so you can see where it is. The headers are stained on the prmary tubes from the number one and two cylinders, on the inide towards the block. It is right at the level where the head meets the block in between the last two rear cylibders. When reved high, 4500 to 5000 rpm, white smoke pours out.
Why does it only happen at extreme rpm?
I have tried to look at that entire side of the engine knowing that at 5k the fan is pushing alot of air. I have replaced the valve cover gasket on that side thinking maybe at high rpm it was pumping max oil up to the top and was leaking at the valve cover. I also checked the torque on the head bolts inside the valve cover before I closed it up. Inside of bellhousing is dry. There is a oil plug on the block that is close. I taped a blue paper towel entirely over that plug and reved, no oil on towel and still amoke at high rpm.
I used $80 a pair fel-pro head gaskets. The valve covers have a breather cap on the drivers side and a Billet Specialties cap with built in pcv valve connected to manifold vaccumon the pass. side.
Could it be spraying oil from between the head and the block at high rpm? No oil running down block between head and block visible. Oil filter apears dry. Flange on headers not stained. I would assume it would be stained if leaking valve cover let oil drain over it.
Any help appreciated, I am close to getting to drive it.
Forgot to add it has a new standard volume Melling oil pump. Don't have a seperate oil pressure gauge.
Last edited by DBROWN (3/03/2016 11:01 AM)
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Does it doing when the engine is revved up to 5000K sitting still? So you could have someone hit the gas while your observing. If its when your driving maybe a sport cam in the engine compartment while driving would diagnose where its coming from. How about the Dip Stick? Steve69
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Had a similar problem on mine. I found that the oil pan was not properly sealed to the block (there was a small gap between the block and the pan in one spot). It could also be coming from the dipstick tube if the dipstick is not fully seated in the tube.
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You say white smoke pours out. Out of the exhaust or out from under the hood? White smoke doesn't sound like oil...sounds more like ATF or coolant. You don't say what trans you have but a C4 with a bad modulator can let a lot of ATF be sucked in to the intake....white smoke. That wouldn't explain anything on the headers but.....
BB
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Smoke coming from engine compartment. Does it sitting still and moving. Smoke is coming from oil on the headers. Really looks like is is being sprayed there. Dipstick on other side of engine. To be the oil pan it would need to be sprayed up there. Is this possible, it is well above the seam on the oil pan. Some oil has dripped down to floor. Not red like tranny fluid or power steering fluid. I did consider brake fluid but does not seem like brake fluid and does not make sense without brakes being applied at time.
Probably was not a smart thing to do I know but I jacked up the front end and had my wife rev to 5k with me under car looking. Saw the smoke start pouring out from area described but could not see what the problem was. Camera might work of it was high def high speed in super slow motion, it happens that fast. I also thought about coolant but it appears to be oil. A small amount of oil shows up at the back of the block where it mates to tranny, I assume being blown there by all the air from the fan. Inside bellhousing dry. Steering box seems to get a little oily. It is in line with the spot on the headers if oil was being sprayed out from the side of the engine.
I will go try to make sure oil pan bolts are tight. All appears dry around the oil pan.
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It's a roller block so.....did you remember to plug the old dipstick hole? For some reason I got the impression the problem was on the right side...you mentioned no. 1 and 2 cyls....but now you are talking about the steering box, brakes, etc. If it's on the left, check the old dip stick hole.
BB
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that roller block engine has the dip stick tube hole in the block, on drivers side, by the back two cylinders.
You stated the dipstick is on the “other side” so, what was done to plug the original dip stick tube hole??
I’d check that next.....
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Maybe the oil pressure sending unit and if you have a manual gauge it could be the plastic line running to the sensor. Could have a pin hole in it.
Steve69
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I found where it is leaking from. It is the bottom most part of the block several inches below the last freeze plug. There is a half moon place machined into the block and I can feel a small hole towards the bottom of the half moon. I can not see it. Anybody know what it is and what is supposed to seal it? I will try to find my mirror.
Your input got me looking different places and specufically around the oil pan.
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I got a mirror and can see the hole. It is smooth with no threads and looks like it goes all the way to the bottom of the block oil pan mounting surface. Is this supposed to have some kind of plug or is the oil pan gasket supposed to seal it? It has a oil pan bolt right next to it.
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That sure sounds like the factory roller block dip stick hole, I tapped and plugged mine but a wood dowel rod will work.
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What would be the best way to seal the dipstick hole short of tapping? I don't think I have room to so that now.
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Like Kar said a wood dowel would work. Just make sure its a tight fit. Steve69
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I may end up using a wooden dowel but I googled plugging it and they make a 3/8 freeze plug also soneone said to use a spent 9 mm shell casing. Since I found a 9 mm casing at my house I tried it. It fit really tight, is air tight and made of brass. I installed it and will let you all know if it leaks.
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The hole you mention is an obvious concern. I think I've seen specialty plugs sold for this purpose when using the older dipstick hole on the cover. I wouldn't use a wooden dowel just from the standpoint of potential longevity issues. I'd also ensure you have adequate crankcase ventilation. A PCV valve is a pollution control device but also helps in this regard.
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Now add oil to the dipstick full mark and drive on........
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Clean the inside of the hole with brake cleaner using a cotton swab until totally clean. If you do the cleanup during your first oil change you can flush the hole with brake cleaner and let it run out the oil pan drain hole. Do not refill with oil until all the brake cleaner has totally evaporated.
Fill the hole with RTV ultra black and let it dry.
Permanently fixed.
Last edited by MS (3/03/2016 7:45 PM)
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MS wrote:
Clean the inside of the hole with brake cleaner using a cotton swab until totally clean. If you do the cleanup during your first oil change you can flush the hole with brake cleaner and let it run out the oil pan drain hole. Do not refill with oil until all the brake cleaner has totally evaporated.
Fill the hole with RTV ultra black and let it dry.
Permanently fixed.
RTV, even easier solution!
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A 3/8" expansion plug" should fit, I used this to plug the dipstick tube hole in the timing chain cover. These need to be driven in with a hammer (or something similar) and may be difficult to install with the headers, etc in the way.
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