the bushings look ok too but I will remove the strut rods 

BTW the sway bar bushings are new and the sway bar is thicker than stock . forgot how bigger.. got it from a member here. 

ALSO I have the MonteCarlo Bar, and export brace on this thing... which was installed last year.. that will stay

I'll throw my $.02 into the ring.  Like dbrown, I wonder most about the sag on one side.  Did the car sag before springs, shocks, etc were replaced a couple of years ago? Look to make sure you have a matched set of springs.  Set them next to each other and see if they are the same height.  With a caliper, measure the thickness of the spring material.  When you remove the spindles, make sure they are a matched pair.  If you have 2 different spindles, that could affect height on one side.

Non roller spring perches have some natural binding.  How does the rubber look?

Shelby drop does not require special springs.

Pitman arm is a cast piece with 2 holes in it.  If there is excessive movement between the pitman arm and the center link, I would suspect the center link.  Remove the link from the P arm and make sure the hole in the arm is not wallowed out.

I have a pair of new KYB gas shocks in the garage.  I cannot compress them by hand, but I am twice your age....

A lot of slop can be in the steering box, if it has not been rebuilt.  You have not mentioned it.

Alright then.. Question is ... do you think the strut rod bushings need to change? 


second what is this hook looking metal peice that is sitting on top of the strut rd where it bolts to the lower control arm... ? When the bolts are unscrewed, that peice comes off and it looks like a wierd hook or a stop of some kind.. Why is that there? 

Tim C is correct. looks like springs were in upside down. Shocks are good , however I could not live with the harsh ride of the GR2 .

Gaba,
Six months ago, what brand of idler did you use?  If it wasn’t MOOG then, it needs to be now.

Regarding your question concerning the steering box....IMHO, I’d have it rebuilt.  Might be able to adjust it but, if it’s never been rebuilt, now’s the time.  Chockostang.com is a good source for this service...

Rebuilding the box along with MOOG replacement parts will have you smiling like a fox eating crap out of a hair brush.......

Gaba, the cars are easy to take apart. Real motivation is needed to get them back together, cause it take soooooo much longer, at least for me anyway.

I agree with Josh, if it's the original box, it's due for a rebuild or replace.

I never had luck adjusting a gear box. You're moving around worn machined surfaces.

Not replacing it now will most likely leave the car with some degree of wandering in the lane.

Had to replace the gear box on our old Suburban around 180K. I noticed the wandering the most when passing a 18 wheeler on the interstate. Imagine your hand centered at 12 o'clock on the steering wheel. As you come up beside it, your hand moves about 1/2 to 3/4 the width of your fist to stay straight, then as you passi it, the wind shifts and you quickly move your hand 1/2 to 3/4 width off center the other direction to remain straight. Just food for thought.

josh-kebob wrote:

Gaba
Taking out the steering box takes a little work......but it looks like you’re over half way there already so why stop now.
Here’s a suggestion, before you take that step, contact Dan at chockostang (google it) and tell him what’s going on with your car. Send him the link you posted for him to review. Get his feedback....it’s free.  Then, make a decision.
Once it’s all done you won’t have to worry about it for another 50 years......

Let me ask you this. How much ballpark can it cost? I am seeing steering boxes upwards of 500 rebuilt!ouch!

Just for the monetary aspect I would have to stop and sadly not do it. If so this car will be apart for the next year before I can add more money to get that done. Suspension and steering and discs are zeroing everything I could save up lol. So that's a consideration to all this too

Then the mustang Steve's law.. If you added up to x you gotta have 2X !! Lol taking the steering wheel and all the wiring off , engine mounts and the manifolds off ... Say goodbye to driving this car for another 1.5 years ... I have to think is that worth it

But I'll contact Dan for sure with the video! I did go to his website already when you mentioned him earlier

I saw your video.  There is lotsa leakage, and a fair amount of play there, which will allow some wandering.  2 suggestions:  JKB mentioned chockostang.  I will second JKB's recommendation.  He has a box on ebay for $192.50 plus shipping.  I am sure he would rebuild one for less, but you would pay shipping 2 ways.  My other thought is you could post a part wanted spot on the swap meet page.  Many guys have gone to Borg boxes or R&P, and you may get a nice box for a great price.  Just ask BillyC.  He just replaced the box in his 66 coupe within the last 6 weeks.

Alright so here is an update. After considering the pricing, work , frustration, and the potential future issues , I have decided to now gut the complete power steering system out of the car, and go with the Borgeson power steering assist steering gear box. And here is my reason why 

1) Collapsible steering rod in case of an accident
2) Reduces the power steering line count to 2 total from like 4 in the bendix system
3) Power steering lines stay stationary so no more wear on those lines and hence less leaks
4) NO more Power steering ram which is another source of leaks in many cases. 
5) Simple and clean under car. 

Now that coupled with me hearing that people are liking this box, and the pricing involved (660 for Borgeson gear box, rag coupler and steering shaft) I am sold. Esp if I went with  rebuilding JUST  the master control valve and Steering gear box was 400 plus shipping plus the fact that, it all depends on my system actually being rebuildable or swappable for core, if not, then I add 200-300 bucks on top, and I still end up with a potentially leaky bendix with a ram and 4 lines, and spear pointing at my chest :D

Anyway. so that said. I also made some mechanical progress. 
Center link is Off the car now with the master control valve assembly, RAM and inner tie rods. 
Strut rods are off as per I was told to check under the bushings : PLEASE DO CHECK THE PICS for that. ( I found a thin piece of metal stuffed between the driver's side bushings . YOu will see it in the photo. Any idea why that was there? 




Steering wheel is off, and so is the outer steering housing tube with wiring. The steering Shaft also has some cloth taped at the end so it doesnt hurt the drivers seat while taking it out with the box. 






So really what I am left with is the steering box with the pitman arm. People said to not take the pitman off as its a waster of time, and just work with it on, and push the steering box all the way to firewall, and twist so the pitman is pointing up apparently, and drop it close to the engine mounts. I will remove engine mount ONLY if needed. So thats just those three screws on the body that hold the box that lie between me and victory. 

Once gear box is out, the car's suspension and steering is officially COMPLETELY disasembled! heehee. I am excited.

Strut rods look ok.  You TX guys are better off than us northerners.  Up here, the rods can get thin & fragile under the bushings, and you cant see it until you take off the bushings.  If the same guy that put the bushing on, put the springs in, I would check everything he did...

I agree with Steve-G.  Cut the shaft down near the box, and it will come out much easier.  If you are going with a 68 column, and not reusing anything from the 66 box (or shaft) you don't need to be as careful where you cut it.  Be sure to get a new column/firewall seal, as long as you have everything out.

I'm not sure what that small metal piece is.  It doesn't look like it is from one of the strut rod bushings, unless it is from the left bushing in the center picture.  Can't tell from pic.

Steve-G wrote:

If you are going with the Borgson box you can cut the shaft off the box near the box to ease removal. Are you going to replace the steering colume? If reuseing it it will need to be cut anyway.

Yes sir I am reusing it , and will be cutting it and putting the second bearing that mustang Steve here sells to support the shaft on the end of that bearing . All that modification with be done hopefully at his shop, so it can be done clean and right

something looks hinky with those strut bushings. I see "this side towards the rubber" printed on it, but it doesn't make sense, since it looks like the shape is concave when it should be convex ( i might have my terms wrong, but you get the idea). The nut looks recessed into the cap when I think it should be the other way.  I don't think you have the right bushings on there.

I had to undo the motor mount and lift up the engine to get the box out without cutting it....but go for it..