Bullet Bob wrote:

Raymond_B wrote:

Yeah the MAF injector mis-match was what I was worried about. If you truly have a Cobra MAF and injectors the MAF transfer function more than the injector size is probably the source of your woes. I think I have a set of 19lb injectors you can borrow (I would like them back, but no hurry). Sadly I do not have a stock Fox MAF, but I bet you could find one easily. Can you take a picture of the MAF? Especially the top of the black portion where the part # is?

I DO have a stock HO MAF that I have loaned to others...and you're welcome to try it along with those 19lb injectors.   Just send your addy along with your first born...on second thought I have enough troubles so forget the first born and just send the addy.  Raymond if it's easier for you orSoonerfan, or if those injectors haven't run for a while I can include a set that should be clean and clear with the MAF.  They do have a tendency to freeze up if left setting with gas in them for a long time...don't ax how I know.  I think I flushed these with acetone before putting them away but I can test them before shipping.

BB
 

Bob, that might be a good idea, these are the stockers that came off my Lightning many, many years ago.
 

I made the assumption that the car ran with the components it has on it. Perhaps that was not the case.
Since the egr spacer was 70mm and the injectors were blue I thought the 70 on the bottom of the mad indicated it was for a 70mm intake.
Google for my number it appears to be a stock and the injectors come back as Bosch 24#.
Anybody know if there is a way to tell if the computer has been adjusted appropriately? I haven't looked into that.", nor do I know where the closest tuner is.
Maf- f1zf-12b579-AA afh55-03b
Injector-280150947

Does the back of the computer look like this? This is no chip installed. That part # appears to be a stock Mustang 5.0 MAF if google is right

Wow, I had no idea injectors were so expensive. I was going to buy some 19s so I could try them this weekend but it would cost at least $500-$700, so now I'm looking into other options, like putting in a different maf (pro-m $200) in case I upgrade the heads in the future.

I'm also think there is a tuner fairly close to my house that I may be able to get my car too that I'll try to call on Monday for suggestions as well

Computer doesn't have a chip sticking out, though it probably had one at one time because it has tape covering the hole.

Thoughts?

soonerfan wrote:

Wow, I had no idea injectors were so expensive. I was going to buy some 19s so I could try them this weekend but it would cost at least $500-$700, so now I'm looking into other options, like putting in a different maf (pro-m $200) in case I upgrade the heads in the future.

I'm also think there is a tuner fairly close to my house that I may be able to get my car too that I'll try to call on Monday for suggestions as well

Computer doesn't have a chip sticking out, though it probably had one at one time because it has tape covering the hole.

Thoughts?

There is no reality where some 19lb injectors cost that much, my goodness where are you looking? Anyway look at the replies! Garage/free stuff is being offered
 

Try this...or borrow a set as posted earlier.  I paid $25 for my first set and $40, I think, for the second.  I made a pressure tester and bought new O-rings, etc from Mr. Injector...easy.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ford-19lb-injectors

BB

soonerfan wrote:

Ray,
There were a couple loan offers so I was just exploring the cost assuming the loans confirmed the solution. Assuming they were reasonble I was going to buy them and try it out this weekend rather reach out and wait for mail. I wasn't blowing off the kind offers, just trying to fit the troubleshooting into family schedule.
O'Reilly wanted $60/injector. Advance wanted $80. So I was a bit in shock and hadn't explorered online vendors or used options, since they are commonly gummed up by old fuel and often need new pintles and o-rings.

Sadly, my original expectation that the engine worked with its components appears to have been pretty poor and I would have been better off buying all the parts from scratch.

If you end up with used ones, I'll be happy to loan you my tester/flusher-outer also.  It's pretty rustic but works just fine.  I bought two used sets and they all worked well.  New O-rings and pintle caps from Mr. Injector run around $20. 

BB

soonerfan wrote:

Ray,
There were a couple loan offers so I was just exploring the cost assuming the loans confirmed the solution. Assuming they were reasonble I was going to buy them and try it out this weekend rather reach out and wait for mail. I wasn't blowing off the kind offers, just trying to fit the troubleshooting into family schedule.
O'Reilly wanted $60/injector. Advance wanted $80. So I was a bit in shock and hadn't explorered online vendors or used options, since they are commonly gummed up by old fuel and often need new pintles and o-rings.

Sadly, my original expectation that the engine worked with its components appears to have been pretty poor and I would have been better off buying all the parts from scratch.

I understand, I think I was having some sort of seizure when I saw those prices If you want a set of your own I would monitor here http://forums.corral.net/forums/fuel-system-related/, sets pop up for next to nothing all the time. And you could use Bob's cleaner to get them in good shape. Then you could continue your troubleshooting.
 

You may well have found your problem.  One of the selling points of the C&L meters was that they could be changed from one injector size to the next by just swapping the sample tubes.  Other companies required you to buy a whole new meter.  But, that means the sample tube is critical, so it seems you had a mismatch between the MAF and the injectors after all.  Let us know if this fixes it.

Just wondering...have you tried a different PCM?  I have one that is a Ford re-conn., I think, that I have never run.  As you might imagine, I'm very reluctant to loan it out, Butt....you might shoot me a pm.

BB

This may not be the best test but you can trick the system into thinking you are in start mode by jumping directly from the battery terminal on the solenoid to the I (eye) terminal on the solenoid when the car has started.  I had to use this for a friend a few years ago when his ignition module quit in the middle of the mountains with no replacement in sight.  If the symptoms improve then would help support that it is related to closed loop.  If they don't improve then it may help reveal a component that is failing when the engine heats up, like the distributor.  You can also jumper before you start the car but remember that you have to pull the jumper to shut it off.  Sounds goofy but when all else fails, sometimes you have to think outside the box.

Hallelujah!!!!
Replaced the vacuum line for the pcv valve with no change.
Installed the distributor that MS sent me, set the timing and drove around for a solid twenty minutes. Well past my normal 2 miles. Even took it on the interstate to see if 5th gear was ok!

Now it's time to finish buttoning up and to order some new rear springs!

Its always the last thing you try.

Because that's what fixes it, and there's no reason to try anything else after that