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The 1965 Mustang stop light circuit has a 12+ constant from the light switch to the brake switch, which grounds the circuit and sends current from the light switch to the turn signal switch. From there, somehow the power goes to a connector under the dash, by the fuse panel.
Ok, that's the background. My problem is that I have a brake light that keeps dropping out and not working, and I can't figure out where the random short is happening. In the past year or so, I've installed a new wiring harness going to the back of the car, I've replaced the brake light switch and have verified that power is getting there. I've also verified that power is coming out of the brake switch and going to the turn signal harness. I just recently, (past couple of weekends) replaced the turn signal switch and had the brake lights working correctly in the garage. But, I'm only getting power to one of the wires that run to the rear of the car. Turn signals and running lights all work correctly, so the wiring is intact and the bulbs are good, I can provide 12+ and grounds to the taillight housing and everything functions correctly.
So, please someone with more electrical smarts than me, please explain what is going on in the turn signal switch that may be causing my problem. It's to the point that it's getting personal now, as I've been fighting this for quite some time.
Any help/advice would be appreciated.
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Let's see if I have this straight. The long and short is the brake light switch only gets power to one side when the turn switch is centered but the turn signals will operate the brake/turn filament on either side. Izzat right? what about when you have the turn sig working on one side will the brake pedal light up the opposite brake light...both ways or is there always one side that will not work from the brake pedal? This sounds like a bad TS switch which would not be surprising with the crap we get these days.
BB
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BB, the stop light switch gets power from the main light switch. It stays hot on one wire. When the brake pedal is depressed, the circuit is completed and power goes thru the brake switch to the turn signal switch. The voltage is then sent to the brake lamps via a two wire connector under the dash.
I have turn signals, running lights and and a brake light on one side. Just one wire of that two wire connector under the dash is energized and is sending power to the rear.
Is there a diagnostic protocol for the turn signal switch, or is it just swap and curse?
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Well, I don't know if it's a protocol but you could easily check output at the column connector to see if the brake light wire from the TS switch is getting voltage and under what conditions. If one side never gets voltage from the brake light switch, I'd say that's a bad TS switch. gotta be. If both Brake/turn wires from the TS switch get power when pushing on the pedal, then there's a crappy connection or bad wire from the column connector. One step at a time, start at the source and keep tracing until it disapears, then you should know the culprit. May not be the switch but it just about has to be if both turns work. Brake lite power from the brake light switch isn't getting switched through the TS switch. Seems to me.
BB
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BB I'm with ya, sounds like a bad switch. A quick check would be unplug the wires going to the steering column. Use an ohm meter or ringer from the brake wire going up the column to the 2 rear wires. Both should ring with turn signals off. Giggle the switch a little to see if it makes a difference.
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Sorry about the slow responses, but apparently I didn't get the memo. The rest of this week has been declared honey-do time by swmbo.
I'll update when I get back in the garage.
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Gee...I NEVER had that problem....what about you, Walt?
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Gee...I NEVER had that problem....what about you, Walt?
Nope, Brenda lets me do what I want when I want. OK everybody lift there feet, its getting deep around here.
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I had one light that kept not working and I was convinced it was the plug on the light housing. After many headaches I discovered it was the two wire plug coming off of the column that was not staying connected. I redid the plug and it was worked great ever since.
BobN
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BobN, good suggestion but I've already been there. I've determined that I'm not getting power to both of those leads coming from the turn signal switch. Only on one side, and that's where the light works. I've found and ordered an NOS Ford switch and am waiting for it to come in, which coincidentally gives me a day or two to finish my chore list for the week.
Back in a couple of days when I get the new turn signal switch installed.
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ok, got the new turn signal switch installed and it looks like everything is working correctly now. I want to get some mile on the car before I feel 100% comfortable.
PS: The turn signal switch that was bad was a Scott Drake from a major vendor. I almost crapped my britches when the new "NOS" one showed up. It was also a Scott Drake, but the package dated from 2005. The wiring was completely different, much better color coding and better attachments to the switch. But, (and there's always a but), the darn wires going to the 6 plug connector were different lengths. Why would someone think that was a good idea?
Anyway, it appears to be working correctly. Thanks for the sounding board guys.
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Thanks for letting us know, Jimj. Funny thing about NOS....if some 10 year old asian girl put it together ten years ago but it never sold...well, that's new-old-stock. They just don't tell you who's NOS you are getting. Crap...all we get is crap any more.
BB
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Not surprised the TS switch was f...lty. I replaced 3(I think) over a 5 year period before I listened to MS(I know-I know!) and got an original FoMoCo switch. They still make them and they are more than double the price of the vendors stuff- butt......very heavy-doody and well made. When you figure the aggravation factor into the equation.....well worth it.
Glad you got your work'in butt...........give it time.
jus say'in
6s6
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Update: Yesterday all tested well, turn signals, brake lights and park lights. All worked like a new car, and I patted myself on the back, prematurely it turns out.
Today, I took a break from honey-do's, hooked the battery back up and one brake light was out. Nothing had touched the car in the previous 24 hours. No power from the column to one side of the two wire connector to the brake lights. Said a few choice words, mumbled an ancient witch doctor curse and rattled some chicken bones I keep in the garage just for these times.
Went back to yard work, cleaned up and ate dinner, and decided to check the brake lights again. Voila, they worked. Nothing is changing guys, nothing. I'm about ready to hang a for sale sign on this d**m thing and move it on down the road. Anyone want a 1965 Fastback with a 331 stroker, TKO600 tranny and all the goodies, but with only one brake light?
Seriously, I can find and fix a solid fault, but these intermittent electrical issues really test my patience. It's time to throw the car cover over it and forget about it for a few days (or weeks).
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Yep!....I agree. Sometimes we need to punish them for a few days by leaving them in a corner.
I have ZERO suggestions on what it might be.
6s6
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Jimj
I feel the same way. About two weeks ago I wanted to change out the bulbs in the dash for brighter ones. Took off the instrument panel replaced the bulbs replaced the panel hooked up the battery and the entire wiring harness melted. Sparks and all. Thought I was going to have to shoot the old pony because she went down. I am now having to replace the entire harness.
I can rebuild a car from the ground up but I HATE DOING THE WIRING!
I would pay someone to come over and finish my wiring problem just so I didn't have to do it.
Did I mention I HATE wiring!
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