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Hi Folks! Tried to test assemble my 302 today to determine the required push rod length, which came in short at 6.55" with the roller centered on the valve stem. I have Comp Cam Magnum 1442-16 Roller Tip rocker arms and a mild cam (Lunati 10310101LK) with valve lifts under 0.500".
But... I think the angle (and the arch of motion) of the rocker arm is far from ideal? This is also making the contact surface on the valve stem wide? I don't know if this is ok for a street engine? I'll post some pictures.
What do you guys think? There is no crazy cam or valve lift but I would like to rev the engine to 6500 without any headache
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Here you got the pictures
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The current June 2016 issue of Hot Rod magazine has a short article about valve train geometry. Page 98.
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red351 wrote:
Valve tip pattern looks good, but for some reason the top pic roller looks to close to inside edge Is there a way you can make adjustable longer push rod to just experiment with. The rocker angle looks steep also
I saw that too but I think the reason why is because its the next valve in from the outside and the photo is taken at a slight angle.
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MachTJ wrote:
red351 wrote:
Valve tip pattern looks good, but for some reason the top pic roller looks to close to inside edge Is there a way you can make adjustable longer push rod to just experiment with. The rocker angle looks steep also
I saw that too but I think the reason why is because its the next valve in from the outside and the photo is taken at a slight angle.
Okay...now I see what your are saying. With that in mind, I'd say it looks pretty good...about the same as I set mine up.
BB
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Nuther tip: If you use the ARP 12 point studs you can re-torque the heads without having to mess with the valves/rockers. Those studs take a 12 pt. 1/2...or is it 9/16" socket which will clear everything...much easier. Just sayin'.
Also, don't forget to plug the secondary air ports at both ends of the heads. Unless, of course, you are going to run the smog pump.
Oh oh....just looked again and it looks like you have studs with a smaller 6 point head...didn't have those available I guess when I did our's.
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (4/24/2016 10:26 AM)
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are you using the proper head gasket for mock up...what is the rocker ratio....jj
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The valve tip contact pattern looks good. If you're under 0.500" lift I'm guessing you are going to have max engine speed of at most 6,500RPM, so the concerns over valvetrain geometry are considerably less than if you are trying to zing it to 7,500. All looks good to me, and I've built quite a few street engines that had that exact contact pattern and never had rocker or valvetrain issues.
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Going to post a pic more of the same mock up.
This mock up is with brand new head gaskets which are very very close in compressed distance to my final head gaskets. And the heads are torqued to specs. It is with length adjusteble pushrods.
Rocker arm ratio is standard 1.6.
Yes it is new 6 point head ARP head bolts cause I want the original look of it.
Anybody run those 1446-16 roller tip rockers ? I'm still not confident that this steep rocker geometry will work properly in the long run ?
Last edited by 69stangeu (4/24/2016 11:06 AM)
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TKO Performance - good point, it is also what I'm hoping for
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Personally, I think your pushrods are too short. That rocker should be more perpendicular to the valve.
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Greg B wrote:
Personally, I think your pushrods are too short. That rocker should be more perpendicular to the valve.
When everything heats up and expands i think it will be just right..the rockers should grow just a tad and be ROC....jj
Last edited by jerseyjoe (4/24/2016 3:43 PM)
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Also make sure the rocker stud does not contact the rocker arm on the bottom during its range of motion. Sometimes you may have to elongate the slot in the bottom of the rocker, but usually if there is a high lift cam in the equation. Just a suggestion as who knows what the quality control is on the rocker arms and some may be close or contact the rocker stud, which can cause some serious failure if anything limits motion and will end up breaking.
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How does it look with the stock rockers?
6s6
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The rockers I tested still had som clearance in the slot. It's just a pain in the a... to get a socket on the stud adjusting nut because the top edge of the rocker is close to the nut in the one end. Needed to grind som material of the socket.
My old stock rockers where rail rockers, and I tried one of those - the rocker angle is a little less steep, so they are a bit better in terms of geometry.
But it seems to me the issue is both in the rockers and the heads - the valve is a bit closer to the stud on those new FloTek heads.
Last edited by 69stangeu (4/24/2016 10:22 PM)
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MachTJ wrote:
Also make sure the rocker stud does not contact the rocker arm on the bottom during its range of motion. Sometimes you may have to elongate the slot in the bottom of the rocker, but usually if there is a high lift cam in the equation. Just a suggestion as who knows what the quality control is on the rocker arms and some may be close or contact the rocker stud, which can cause some serious failure if anything limits motion and will end up breaking.
I agree with the opinion the pushrod are too short, and check for interference from rockers to rockers studs.
I arrive just from this experience that cause a lot of problems also to the valve guide and seat.
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Marco wrote:
MachTJ wrote:
Also make sure the rocker stud does not contact the rocker arm on the bottom during its range of motion. Sometimes you may have to elongate the slot in the bottom of the rocker, but usually if there is a high lift cam in the equation. Just a suggestion as who knows what the quality control is on the rocker arms and some may be close or contact the rocker stud, which can cause some serious failure if anything limits motion and will end up breaking.
I agree with the opinion the pushrod are too short, and check for interference from rockers to rockers studs.
I arrive just from this experience that cause a lot of problems also to the valve guide and seat.
The short push rods (the one seen is adjusteble) are necssary for keeping the contact pattern on the valve stem in the middle to avoid guide and seat problems.
My only concern is the the pushrod to rocker contact, and rocker to stud wear. There is no interference issues.
Marco, I like to know more about your problems - was your experience only valve guide and seat issues ?
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The witness mark on the valve tip doesn't lie. That's what determines pushrod length. There can be other geometry issues caused by the location of the valve relative to the rocker stud, the rocker ratio, etc, but those issue are not correctable with pushrods. Largely those issues are not correctable for the average guy, and with an engine like this they aren't going to matter. If it was going to spin crazy RPM you might have problems, but then you should be running shaft rockers, etc.
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I second TKO in that the push rod length effects the location of the swipe of the rocker tip on the valve. If your rocker has enough rotation on the stud so nothing interferes and no part of the rocker touches anything else (like spring retainer) you should be good at 6800 rpm and below. And also as TKO said, I have only been able to reliably run to 8400 rpm with the shaft mounted rockers that are shimmed to close tolerances and are set up very accurately.
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Thank you guys. This forum is great! Very quick response.
I will try this setup and if it somehow is not performing well I'll let you know
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For what its worth, the rocker arm should be at 90 Degrees to the valve stem when the valve is half depressed. For example, if you have .500 lift, at .250 lift, the rocker arm should form a perpendicular angle to the valve stem. Even though the contact patch looks correct, from what I see, the push rod is too short. As mentioned, the current position imparts a bit of lateral movement to the stem at initial opening.
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