Thanks for the info.    It is very timely.

My '66 is in the final stages of installation.  I can't do my own work any more, so, it is in the shop.  I keep close tabs on the mechanic and he really knows his stuff.  So I have no qualms about the work.    The car is running fine and he is doing the fine tuning right now.  This afternoon will be my first test drive.  I can't wait.

There are no problems at this time.  The work is going smoothly.  But, he did have to run a vent line back to the gas tank filler pipe from the Command Center.  I'll get more info today.  The other thing is FiTech.  It took around two months for me to get my order.  I bought directly through FiTech.  They kept putting me off because they were sending all their units to Jegs and Summit.  Then, when they did ship, they sent me two sets, one to the mechanic and one to me!  I've tried to contact them a couple of times to return it, and they have not responded.  So, I am keeping it until I get my car back before trying to contact FiTech again.  There is comfort in having spares right at hand.

All of us doing the FiTech thing should keep in contact on the Forum.  They are a new company and still have some operational issues to smooth out.  I think their success is running faster than their management can develop.

Last edited by lowercasesteve (6/09/2016 10:38 AM)

Steve,
I thought the command center didn't require a return line to the rear tank or are you talking about the vent tube?
 

The vent line back to the tank (filler neck) is a must if you value your car.  The Command Center has a needle&seat/float just like a carb.  If it sticks it will pump fuel out of that vent line and needs a safe place to go.

On a carb if the needle&seat stick it floods down the venturi's and it will stall out. The command Center will keep leaking out the vent line and you'll most likely not notice a change in the running.  If you vent it under the car you could be going down the road with a ball of flames trailing.  Imagine fuel spraying on the hot exhaust...hope you have fire insurance.

I have noticed after a run if I pop open the fuel cap and look down the filler tube it will spit some fuel out the vent line.  Ethanol fuel and underhood temps rise after a run and the fuel boils, not much you can do about it

Larry

I ran 1/4 rubber hose for the Venting from the command center to the fuel tank filler neck.

Kelly_H wrote:

I'm curious - what does it look like with the air cleaner on? And are you using timing control on it?

I have the Powerjection III system on my car right now but the FiTech is looking pretty attractive because of its timing control and AC idle control - and I can sell my old EFI unit for approximately the same price as the new FITech unit! I've just been trying to find people who are using these two features to find out how they work.

  I have my ford motorsport air cleaner on it.  I had to move the fitting a little bit on the front where the fuel comes in to make it fit.  I have the timing control option but I have a Mallory unilite and hyfire box and I didn't want to change that around.  You'd have to contact Fitech and they would specify what distributor you can use for timing control.  I know my 2 wire distributor  wouldn't work.   Im happy how it runs right now.  I don't know If I would change anything. 
 

Last edited by Steve69 (6/10/2016 10:10 AM)

Thanks for the up date on this...
Could you include a picture of the 1/4"  hose plugged in to the filler neck?

Thx...

I just installed the FiTech #30004 Power adder unit on my 1966 Mustang, Tanks Inc in tank fuel pump, 351W, MSD 6AL, Pertronix Billet dist(mech advance only)
Upon initial basic setup (key on) I noticed that some of the setup numbers I entered and sent to the ECU were not the numbers I read back.As an example: I tried to change the FAN ON Temp to 180deg, presssed Send to ECU, pressed back, seleced FAN Setup again and the vallue was 179(sometimes the values are off more than 1). Same thing happens to FAN OFF Temp and Cubic Inches. Anybody else notice this?

I originally had it wired so that the ECU would control the timing,(ECU connected to distributor). The engine would not start. I rewired to let the MSD box control the timing (MSD box connected to distributor) and the engine started. But, it would only run for less than a second before it died. After many attempts I finially adjusted the idle screw in and the engine started and ran, idled poorly but idled.

This morning the engine would not start. I adjusted the idle screw in some more and the engine starts and idles around 1400rpm for a couple seconds tries to go up to 1600rpm and dies. I tried just about everything and cannot get anything to resolve this. Anybody else experience this?

Grabber Blu wrote:

After you send to ECU you need to turn off the key for 30 sec.  You must do this for each change.

Do you have 58 psi to TB,  vacuum leak?  Vacuum cap off unused ports?

Yes, I did turn the key off for 5 minutes and the same result. But from what I read that key turn off to store is only to have that data stored in non voltile ram so if you loose power those values are saved. Everything should be saved in ram as long as there is 12v.

Don't have a fuel gauge to test for fuel pressure, I will check that when I get gauge.

Only used PCV port. All others factory plugs on vacuum ports. While looking I did notice another screw on the passenger side of the TB. Looks like it has the same function as the one on the right side. Looks like they would both control idle?
 

Grabber Blu wrote:

The back screw is used for idle and to sync the front and rear.  If you move the rear screw too much you will introduce slop in the linkage.

Was told by Fitech to power down after each change

Larry

So, the values you've sent to the ECU for FAN OFF Temp, FAN ON Temp and cubic inches is the same value that you currently see in the initial setup display?

Grabber Blu wrote:

Whats the point, they do change by a small amount.  I'm trying to help you out, obviously that's not your problem why your system doesn't run.

I have my system for 4 months running timing control  and have tweaked and adjusted and it's running fine.

Larry

What I'm trying to determine is if my unit is defective. I'm thinking, if it can't store my values something is messed up with it. The reason I asked about storing the data was to determine if they're all like that. 

It ran for about 20 minutes in the garage yesterday roughly idling between 800-1000rpm, i could rev it up to 5000rpm without any issues. This morning it would not start. I turned in the drivers side screw until it started. It was idling around 2200rpm and would not go below that rpm. I turned out the screw to get it to get the idle down. It will run for a couple seconds at 1400rpm and it tries to ramp up to 1600rpm and dies. That's where I am at. Yesterday not bad, today not good.

Grabber Blu wrote:

Do you have a 6AL MSD box?

Yes sir. Tanks Inc in tank fuel pump, 351W, MSD 6AL, Pertronix Billet dist(mech advance only)