I would remove the dizzy and prime/pressurize the oiling system...also prime the carb with a little drink of fuel just before cranking to start....jj

The car was parked out side for two years, but it was covered. The only reason why I was a little worried the rings were sticking was because when I flicked the ignition switch.  I didn't see the fan move very much but I heard the starter engage. This didn't seem normal. My dad was saying he thought my timing is probably off. I didn't ever seem bad before when I parked it. Mine is a vacume advance my vacume advance is almost all the way over almost rubbing the thermost housing. One thing I'll need to purchase for my car is a timing pointer. The new timing chain cover on my car doesn't have a forged in pointer. I'm going to have to purchase a pointer for it as well.

I agree with the other posts that you should be OK following your plan.
Regarding your distributor, after you get it up and running, pull the distributor and move it one tooth.  As for the timing pointer, as an temporary fix, fabricate one from a wire coat hanger and attach it to a timing chain cover bolt, bend it to the timing mark.

If you want accurate timing you need to truly know where TDC is, and you're not going to get that without a little work.  On an assembled engine the best way is to use a piston stop threaded into the #1 spark plug hole.  Rotate the engine clockwise until it contacts the stop, mark the balancer.  Rotate the engine counterclockwise until it contacts the stop, mark the balancer.  The point in the middle of those two marks is true TDC.  This sets you up to easily use a timing tape so you can be dead sure of your timing. 

Should I remove the starter before I try a socket and breaker bar to move the crank?

jerseyjoe wrote:

True74yamaha wrote:

Should I remove the starter before I try a socket and breaker bar to move the crank?

NO....jj

 What ever you do don't hit the starter with the breaker bar on the crank and make sure to disconnect the battery just to be on the safe side.

Last edited by Rudi (8/11/2016 3:34 PM)

Odds that the bendix in the starter is bad are extremely long. 

With the plugs out it should move fairly easily, but you'll have to put some force into it to overcome the ring drag on the cylinder walls. 

True74yamaha wrote:

for a new long block 302 I can have one shipped to my house from eBay for $1,200.

I'm a real believer in "you get what you pay for" and after building a few engines I would never even consider a $1200 long block...or a short block either these days.  Shipping alone will be $300 to $400.  That doesn't leave very much for "good quality parts and workmanship", IMO.

BB

Question... Could my torq converter be seized? Im wondering because maybe its not letting my crank assembly move freely?

I've never heard of a torque converter locking up, so I find that unlikely.

Spending $1,200 on a long block from Ebay; you'd be better off to just set that pile of money on fire.  When it comes to engines you absolutely get what you pay for.  If the engine needs to be rebuilt I would simply contract with a local machine shop and have it rebuilt.  Worst case it needs to be bored and a set of new pistons.  In the end that's likely more economical than a $1,200 "new" engine anyway, especially if you can do the disassembly/assembly yourself. 

Ozblitz wrote:

Sounds like your having a tough time getting any rotation?  How long is your breaker bar?  Did you prime your oiling system by removing the dizzy?  Priming the eng. w/ a drill will get the oil pump flowing oil throughout the entire engine so everything get lubricated inside. It should help getting this moving.

I haven't done that. So I need to remove my dizzy and do what sorry? I was able today to finally get a little movement. I was using a 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar. Now I took off the crank gear pully. And now I made my own wrench out of a 24" piece of black pipe and a 3/16" steel plate that I welded together. I have that wrench bolted to the fly wheel. Now I have been rocking my bar back and forth. I was able to get a little rotation out of the crank. After I was able to move the crank a small amount. I poured in some more penetrating oil down the spark plug holes. I've gotten the best movment out of the crank with this new penetrating oil that I've been using.

Last edited by True74yamaha (8/15/2016 12:09 AM)