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8/21/2016 6:13 PM  #51


Re: Going to attempt to get the stang started

Its gotta be a smoker...if not I'd be surprised...put some STP in it...STP goes in the crankcase...LOL....jj

Last edited by jerseyjoe (8/22/2016 4:57 AM)


"Never put a question mark where God put a period "  Richard Petty
 

8/21/2016 8:43 PM  #52


Re: Going to attempt to get the stang started

If it were my engine I would get some "Mouse Milk" from an airplane parts company called Aircraft Spruce and put enough MM in each cylinder to cover the top of each piston about a 1/4 inch and let it sit for a couple of days. I'm guessing that would be about 4 bottle of the stuff. MM breaks down rust. If the MM disappears then you know that cylinder isn't the stuck one. Work the crank back and forth every day a little bit till the day it breaks loose. I did that with a 52 GMC several years ago and drove it for several years after that till I sold it. I shouldn't of sold it. P.S. I've heard a product called Kroil does the same thing but I've never used it cause I've had good luck with MM. (Mouse Milk not Marvel Mystery Oil).


70, ragtop 351W/416 stroker Edel Performer heads w pro flow 4, Comp roller 35-421-8. T5
 

8/22/2016 7:03 AM  #53


Re: Going to attempt to get the stang started

I use Kroil all the time.  You can get it from Eastwood.  IMO its the best penetrating oil out there.  Pricey, but it works.  I've even used it to dissolve dissimilar metal corrosion.  I had a Camaro with aluminum rear brake drums (GM did that sporadically).  I went to service the brakes and couldn't get the drum off one side.  I knew beating on it like an iron drum would probably ruin it, and the aluminum drums were NLA, so I opened the rear, pulled the C-clip and yanked the whole axle out with the brake drum on it.  I tapped on it a bit, but again, didn't want to wail on it for fear of damage.  Finally, at the end of my rope I hosed it down with Kroil and let it sit (axle vertical) on the bench overnight.  The next day, one very light tap with a deadblow hammer and the drum slid right off.  $26 a can, but it works so well you don't need a lot, and the parts you save will be worth oh so much more.  A can usually lasts me a couple years. 

On your 300 57steve, was that engine stuck?  Its one thing for some rusty water to come out of the cylinders, I had that in two cylinders in my 6.0 PSD when it lost a head gasket, but the engine wasn't stuck.  I rolled it though a couple revolutions and there wasn't anything is those cylinders as far as pitting, etc.  It was just some rusty stuff from sitting with coolant in the cylinders.  I did the HG job and went on to run a 13 flat ET with that truck.  Obviously there was no issue with the ring seal.

But when the engine is stuck its a different story.  That means something has rust welded in place.  That means cylinder wall pitting and ring damage.  If it breaks a ring it could ruin the block, so to me its not a case of "if it doesn't run right you're no worse off".  In point of fact you could be a lot worse off because you went from a rebuildable engine to a boat anchor.  If its the original engine I honestly don't even know why we're having this conversation.  If its been replaced already then its less concerning.  I suppose you'd really only be out the $100 for which you could find a decent 5.0, so why not give it a shot?

 

8/22/2016 9:17 AM  #54


Re: Going to attempt to get the stang started

Well I was able to get the engine started all is well.  I even checked with a scope inside the cylinder bores for signs of rust. As to my surprise it didn't have any rust.  Thank you for all your guys replies much appreciated. I'm. Glad it worked out on my end. I would hate to be the one that the original 289 to my car goes out on. I am planning on pulling the engine later and having it bored out the smallest amount I can. Then I plan on getting heads and cam. I'm actually only the third owner of the car.  It was the kid that I bought it froms dad who had originally purchased the car in 65.

     Thread Starter
 

8/22/2016 11:39 AM  #55


Re: Going to attempt to get the stang started

I do not know if it was stuck. He did not what to move it until we were ready to start it. I was just learning about cars. I can tell you that the rusty water that ran out of the cylinders when dried on the floor left a rusty build up that had to be scraped off. The wreck had no hood or air cleaner from the time the boss got it. I was just amazed on how nice the thing ran. He did not try to rotate the crank at all. He wanted that tranny fluid to sit and not disturb it while I pulled the engine from dad's truck. Just put it in the truck and fired it up. I was always concerned that it would be an oil burner or have low compression on those two cylinders. That was not the case. And today when I find something that is stiff or stuck, tranny fluid is my go to product.

TKOPerformance wrote:

I use Kroil all the time.  You can get it from Eastwood.  IMO its the best penetrating oil out there.  Pricey, but it works.  I've even used it to dissolve dissimilar metal corrosion.  I had a Camaro with aluminum rear brake drums (GM did that sporadically).  I went to service the brakes and couldn't get the drum off one side.  I knew beating on it like an iron drum would probably ruin it, and the aluminum drums were NLA, so I opened the rear, pulled the C-clip and yanked the whole axle out with the brake drum on it.  I tapped on it a bit, but again, didn't want to wail on it for fear of damage.  Finally, at the end of my rope I hosed it down with Kroil and let it sit (axle vertical) on the bench overnight.  The next day, one very light tap with a deadblow hammer and the drum slid right off.  $26 a can, but it works so well you don't need a lot, and the parts you save will be worth oh so much more.  A can usually lasts me a couple years. 

On your 300 57steve, was that engine stuck?  Its one thing for some rusty water to come out of the cylinders, I had that in two cylinders in my 6.0 PSD when it lost a head gasket, but the engine wasn't stuck.  I rolled it though a couple revolutions and there wasn't anything is those cylinders as far as pitting, etc.  It was just some rusty stuff from sitting with coolant in the cylinders.  I did the HG job and went on to run a 13 flat ET with that truck.  Obviously there was no issue with the ring seal.

But when the engine is stuck its a different story.  That means something has rust welded in place.  That means cylinder wall pitting and ring damage.  If it breaks a ring it could ruin the block, so to me its not a case of "if it doesn't run right you're no worse off".  In point of fact you could be a lot worse off because you went from a rebuildable engine to a boat anchor.  If its the original engine I honestly don't even know why we're having this conversation.  If its been replaced already then its less concerning.  I suppose you'd really only be out the $100 for which you could find a decent 5.0, so why not give it a shot?


66 coupe, Now a 11 year garage ornament.
 

8/22/2016 3:50 PM  #56


Re: Going to attempt to get the stang started

If you scoped it and its clean then you got lucky.  Might want to pull the pan and check a couple bearings.  Maybe it wasn't stuck from a piston...

 

8/22/2016 6:44 PM  #57


Re: Going to attempt to get the stang started

TKOPerformance wrote:

If you scoped it and its clean then you got lucky.  Might want to pull the pan and check a couple bearings.  Maybe it wasn't stuck from a piston...

I was actually thinking the same about pulling off the oil pan. Thanks everyone for your input on helping me out.

     Thread Starter
 

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