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9/19/2016 9:40 PM  #1


67 cougar kelsey/hayes

a friend of mine bought a 67 cougar with 390. he is looking for some Kelsey/hayes disc brakes parts any suggestions?

 

9/19/2016 9:52 PM  #2


Re: 67 cougar kelsey/hayes

The SSBC 11" disk kit uses K-H brakes.   An exact duplicate of stock.


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

9/20/2016 9:07 AM  #3


Re: 67 cougar kelsey/hayes

The CSRP front disc conversion is also a direct copy of the K/H 67 front discs.  I have installed a couple of those kits and they are very good quality.  Not saying one is any better than the other - just tossing out another option.  My money would go to CSRP if I needed a set.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

9/21/2016 8:04 AM  #4


Re: 67 cougar kelsey/hayes

Does he really want these for some reason?  I have the SSBC kit on my car and the calipers are problematic to bleed and since '67 was an oddball year no one seems to stock pads for them.  If he wants the car to stop I'd get something more modern with better parts availability like one of Mustang Steves kits using later model Mustang brakes. 

 

9/21/2016 9:01 AM  #5


Re: 67 cougar kelsey/hayes

I bought my 67 kelsey/hayes caliper from ssbc through summit racing. It was cheaper there than on the ssbc website.

 

9/21/2016 8:11 PM  #6


Re: 67 cougar kelsey/hayes

he is just wanting to keep the car original
 

     Thread Starter
 

9/21/2016 10:57 PM  #7


Re: 67 cougar kelsey/hayes

TKOPerformance wrote:

Does he really want these for some reason?  I have the SSBC kit on my car and the calipers are problematic to bleed and since '67 was an oddball year no one seems to stock pads for them.  If he wants the car to stop I'd get something more modern with better parts availability like one of Mustang Steves kits using later model Mustang brakes. 

Yes. in 67 Mustangs started with K-H brake calipers, but they had a different design for the rubber piston seals.  Those can be difficult to get.  Somewhere towards the end of the model year I believe the calipers were changed out for single piston floating calipers.  However the '66 caliper design is a straight bolt in if replacement is needed.

I used mine for over 40 years rebuilding them any number of times.  I never had difficulty bleeding the lines.  Actually, I have always liked the design because it is so simple and easy to work on.  And SSBC began resleeving the piston bores with stainless steel - thus the name.  That corrected the rusting  and subsequent  sticking of the pistons.

I think they are the best solution for 14" and 15" wheels.


 


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

9/22/2016 7:14 AM  #8


Re: 67 cougar kelsey/hayes

It seemed I had problems with the dust seals getting stuck to the back of the pads, tearing on disassembly, and requiring the caliper to be basically rebuilt.  The kits were available, but again, not one has them in stock, so when you are planning just a simple brake job and it ends up costing you 2-3 days in downtime it can suck, especially if you were planning to use the car for something special.

The bleeding issues I encountered are really just on the initial bleeding.  Once you get the system bled its fine, but that can be tough because those 4 pistons all hide air bubbles.  The trick I found that worked was tap on the calipers with a plastic hammer while bleeding.  That finally fixed the problem and I ended up with a nice firm pedal. 

Interestingly, I went this way when I converted my car to disc/drum because at the time I wanted the car to be 100% original, or at least appear to be.  Now, 20+ years later I don't care as much, and just want the thing to do what I want it to do. 

But if originality is the goal this is a good choice, and the SSBC kit was decent, BUT at the time instructions were not very good and important stuff was left out.  One important point is that a stock drum brake pedal will not work and you need to change to a power brake pedal.  So if you're converting the car from drum/drum be prepared to swap pedals too.  You will also need either a stock type non adjustable proportioning valve, or an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve.  '67s did not have a combo valve, so you have a brass distribution block with a shuttle valve (all that does is provide dual circuit braking and an idiot light).  The disc/drum cars had a non-adjustable proportioning valve in the front to rear line at the back of the car.  The original style valve is NLA, but Ford I believe still sells a service replacement that though visually totally different works the same.

 

Board footera


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