The lines are one of the first things that they put on a car at the factory.  As Lil' Hoss says, the headliner needs to go in relatively coon too.  Properly installed the headliner is glued to the windshield and backlight channels before the glass goes in.  The less stuff that's in the way when you do the wiring, etc. also makes things easier. 

You did catch the vert part, right, so no headliner.  😃

Bullet Bob wrote:

NO Headliner....it's a Vert.

I'd start with the pedal support/booster/MC...gonna need some custom pluming to this will give you the proper target.
​Now plumbing.
​Then then mount any custom or non-stock electrical stuff you can with out the engine/trans. 
​Now lay down the custom AAW harness.  No reason why you can't mount lights as you go and terminate/connect the harness at each device.  You will need to figure out how to pass the harness through the firewall in a clean/safe manner and get proper grommets or fill for the firewall holes.  I recommend you leave an extra long pigtail harness for the instrument cluster. and terminate it with a proper connector...I used a 16 pin Delphi...and pre-wire the cluster with a separate harness/ connector.  My cluster wiring is long enough that I can leave the cluster connected while it sets on top of the dash....VERRRRRRRY handy and I thank Glen Buzek for the idea.  Also, if you have any plans to go with a 66 type cluster, custom instruments, electronic speedo, tach,  etc.  in the future now is the time to include the wiring pigtails in the harness.  Same thing goes for power windows, elect. trunk release, cruise control, power locks, AMPs.  Much easier to stub in the wiring now than having to pull carpet, etc. later.
Tie the harness bundles and secure them temporarily as you go.  Like along the inner fenders and across the core support.  Once everything is cut to perfect length and terminated you can add harness wrap or loom and tie the runs down properly.  For harness loom I've been using a split woven poly that I get from Terminal Supply Co.  It looks great and while it's a bit of a PIA to put over the harness, it stays put and allows you to  open the loom if you ever need to.  I also like to secure the ends of the loom with adhesive coated heat shrink tube from Heat Shrink.com.
Now you can mount and connect the wipers/motor, switches, dash pad, firewall insulation, heater or HVAC.
​Be sure to run and secure any floor wires like the shifter light, door lock switch wires, future power window wiring that goes along the tunnel to a future console, speakers, etc....before you lay down any Dyna-Mat or other sticky sound deadener (I used BE QUIET and it seems to work well).

​So...it's plumbed, suspended, wired.  I think I'd go ahead and install the windows/regulators, door guts, maybe the top.  Then engine/trans, exhaust unless it's going to a shop for that, clean up, lay down and terminate all the engine harness for a final time, finish plumbing connections, vacuum lines, pour in a little gas and Farrr-Tup.  Assuming all goes well there, you can add the driveshaft, shifter, exh, bumpers, trim, hood, interior...a couple of thousand things you didn't think of until now....get it aligned, and drive it to the Bash next OCT. 

​No problem!

BB

 

Thanks, Bob, appreciate the info.  And good idea on the long gauge harness.  Thanks, Glen!

Two immediate questions come to mind.

1. Can I install the steering column before I install the firewall pad or does the pad have to go on first and the column passes through it?  It's been so long since I took it apart, I can't remember.🙄

2.  For the wiring that goes to the engine, I assume you lay those out with plenty of extra length and then don't cut and terminate them until you actually installl the engine?


Many more questions to come, I promise.  😊

Don't know about the differences but I think you can install the pad after the column since, IIRC, they have a cut-away section that fits around the column.  May be easier overall to install the pad and wiring with the column out.
Yes on No. 2.  Do everything you can with the harness sections that go along the fenders and core support but leave the engine harness for last.

 

Chaplin wrote:

And more firewall pad question, other than $130, anyone know what's the difference between the $50 pad the the $180 pad?  It looks like the $180 pad has a lot more cut outs already made, but beyond that I can't tell.

 
The $50 pad I bought didn't fit worth a darn, still in a box in the garage. It was a flat piece with holes that didn't line up with any in the firewall. I installed one for about $80 from John's Mustang. It was still flat, but fit a lot better and the cutouts lined up. I think the $130 will be molded to the contours of the firewall.

It's a little late for this suggestion but, If you get all the paint edging done along with the engine compartment THEN install the engine THEN paint the exterior you dont have to worry about leaning over the freshly painted fenders while you work on the engine and it's components.  all the fender covers in the world are not enough protection!  just sayin!!

I use towels and/or blankets for fender covers, and even double them up, and haven't had a problem.  Still need to be careful.  When installing the engine you may want to try placing cardboard on the inner fenders.  Taping the cardboard in place will also help.
My biggest issue has always been not chipping the paint when installing the hood, suggest taping the edges of the hood and fenders, and the trickiest part for me is always the edges of the rear portion by the cowl.  Helps to have three people, maybe four, assist on the installation/adjustment so as not the chip the paint ... and make sure each helper is aware of what to watch for.

I would install the wiring before the LH cowl vent.  Not sure about the '65, but in my '67 there are a couple plugs that are right behind that thing which are impossible to get properly seated with the vent in place.  The parking brake and heater box can be worked around if need be. 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (12/27/2016 4:29 PM)