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Today I made the exhaust system for the 54 F100. I used a 2-1/2" BBK offroad Fox Mustang 5.0 H-pipe and the mufflers salvaged from Al McGee's 65 fastback, plus the original tips off my 2007 Mustang GT. The tips are temporary until I install the Mustang gas tank and determine how much room is left for tailpipes. The 5.0 engine has shorty ceramic coated headers that fit a Fox also.
Main reason I am posting this is for 6sally6. I figured this is an exhaust system he would appreciate. And maybe give others some ideas or incentive to do their own system. Those cheezy muffler clamps and hangers will go away once the tailpipes are installed and I place the permanent hangers.
Since the subject of serpentine belt routing came up the other day, this is just a pic to show how I did this one. The system is from the 89 Lincoln Mark VII and has a couple of subtle variations from the same year Mustang setup.
Engine stands custom built for the Crown Vic conversion. I made them to fit 66 Mustang rubber mounts because I like to use parts that are readily available and inexpensive.
I used a 66 Mustang shifter supplied by Josh-kabob and mathematically determined the lever ratio and built the actuation rod from 3/8" steel dowel with spherical rod ends. I threaded the rod so it has about 1/4" adjustment.
I am still looking for a kickdown lever to go on this C6 automatic transmission if anyone has one laying around. I plan to make it cable activated. The seal was already shot before the welding took place, so it will get repaired once this thing is roadworthy. The kickdown lever goes on the 1/2" nut pictured by the weld bead attaching the lever arm. The tranny was from a column shift truck so the lever was pointing the wrong direction for a floor shifter.
Trans coolant lines run along the passenger frame rail up to the radiator, with plenty of bends to take up any movement. The loop to the rear was to clear H-pipe not yet installed.
One thing nobody tells you when installing a Crown Vic front end on an old truck. The LCA rear bushings are mounted at a 45 degree angle on the crown vic. When you put them on a truck, they get mounted flat. There is an adjustment slot in the bushing so the caster can be adjusted by moving the LCA rear pivot in or outboard. That adjustment will not be there in the proper location if you do not cut the round steel bushing housing off and reweld it at a different angle so that slot is parallel to the ground. The red dashed line shows how it would be angled if not rotated like the red rectangle position.
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Very nice.
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See, it's the little details like chrome exhaust tips under the truck that no one can see that make all the difference!
Kidding aside, looks good.
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VERY nice!!
Just a couple of comments:
This is a Truck!! Why would you want mufflers?!
How far back do the tail pipes dump...I can't tell! Won't make that droning noise will it?
A lift really makes life sooo much easier when doing this kind of stuff!
From an EX- pipe welder....! .gotta love that "gorilla weld" (big and strong butt ugly)
6sal6
PS..........You know I'm yanking-your-chain MS!
As always you do nice work!
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Yeah, that aluminized coating on the exhaust tubing and plating on the tranny lever arm gives me fits trying to make a decent weld bead!
Plus I do better if not welding upside down.
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I picked up several Harbor Freight angle grinders and keep a wire brush on one and a flap wheel on the other. They hang right next to the welder always plugged in so I can first get rid of all that plating where I want to weld and then make the weld look good even after I tried my best.
Oh, yeah, those mufflers are way way way too big!
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Hey 6Sally6,
I am glad I got rid of those mufflers and went with the Cadillac quiet flows. I can now carry on a conversation driving to the bash and even enjoy the new sound system. You can have your ear plugs back if ya want um'.
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I figure the truck owner will be back later to have some Quiet Flow$ in$talled. These are there so the truck can get inspected and registered. Who knows, maybe they will sound great with the stock 5.0.
The shifter welds will get addressed, and the lever trimmed from original configuration, once I am sure it works perfectly.
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Looks awesome. On the kick down i was thinking what about making it cable driven and use jagwire parts. They sell simple kits that you can customize to the needed length. They sell the kits on ebay for around 16.00.
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Planning on using a cable but I still need the OEM lever for the kickdown.
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Great Work! How are you going to run your Ignition coil? I'm working on the serpentine belt system and just trying to figure out when I install the AC compressor where I'm going to install the coil.
Steve69
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MS wrote:
Planning on using a cable but I still need the OEM lever for the kickdown.
Neat do you have a certain place that you go through for cable and parts? Ill check my parts and my buddies to see if he has a kick down. You could try emailing riverton rods and rides or mustang ranch. Both are here in salt lake city utah. They both have tons of parts for pretty much any make.
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Any configuration lever will work as all I really need is the part with the rectangular hole in it. For $30 to $50, I can just make the entire lever myself. That is kind of a ridiculous price for that little part that is nothing special.
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C4 is probably the same ... ya gotta have one of them laying round somewhere.
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I have a 64 1/2 coupe with a stock 289 with ac and an electric cooling fan, I would like to have a real sending unit for the fan instead of the tube that goes in the upper radiator hose, is there another way other than having the radiator fitted for a sending unit, like maybe a t -stat housing off a 390, it looks like a sensor would go right in it
Last edited by JeffS (1/05/2017 6:32 PM)
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A 302 1970 tstat housing will work, Jeff, but it puts the temperature signal downstream of the thermostat. Should be same signal as received at the radiator hose, though. I would prefer the signal to come from the intake manifold. It is quite simple to drill and tap a hole in the water passage behind the distributor. Lots of sending units use a very small pipe thread size, so the hole does not need to be big.
Be sure to make your question posts as a NEW TOPIC next time you ask a question, rather than tagging onto another thread. You will get more visibility to the question that way. We have all made that same mistake at one time or another.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |