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1966 Mustang Coupe, 5.0 HO Swap, EFI MAF, T5z, Hydraulic Clutch, Headman Shorty Headers I'm working on getting the drivers side header installed. I'm all bolted up and have 2 major concerns: I tried a Lokar Flexible dipstick that got crushed between the headers and the block. Had to go back to the stock dipstick tube bit it's placement is really close to a spark plug and contacts one of the header tubes? I can fit a plug wire boot over the spark plug but there is contact? Will this cause a problem?
On the bottom end the attachment to the header comes in contact with the transmission bell housing. I'm planning on getting a custom exhaust installed. Is this something that can be worked around or adjusted to fit?
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What sort of oilpan are you using? Unless you're using a Mustang II style front end, you need a front sump pan, with a dipstick mounted in front over the sump .... block off the old dipstick hole.
I would trim the bell to get a little more clearance.
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Looks like you have a hydraulic clutch and are not using the cable mount, so I would cut it off and not worry. Your dipstick looks just like mine that has been on car now for over 10 years without a problem.
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DC wrote:
Your dipstick looks just like mine that has been on car now for over 10 years without a problem.
In the same location as the OP with a front sump pan??
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Oh, I love my MII front end! You are right on 50vert, I missed the pan issue. My car has the rear sump due to the MII front.
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50vert wrote:
What sort of oilpan are you using? Unless you're using a Mustang II style front end, you need a front sump pan, with a dipstick mounted in front over the sump .... block off the old dipstick hole.
I would trim the bell to get a little more clearance.
Why do I need a front sump pan? This is a swap from a 1988 5.0. Never detected a problem when it was running.
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Just guessing from your photos ..... so that you can use the engine bay crossbrace to help hold your car together.
Last edited by 50vert (2/27/2017 4:46 PM)
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There was a recent discussion on dipstick relocation. See Josh's post of how he did his. You really need to ditch the rear sump pan in order to install the proper crossmember. Without it, your lower conttol arm pivots will be moving around alot.
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