Normally, the rings go onto the axle stub, then the rotor is bolted on and will barely engage the ID of the rotor. If you are not careful you can get the rotor off center.  The centering ring will center the rotor unless it has been installed crooked and gotten stretched in the process.

A way to get the ring into the rotor better is to install an o-ring on the stub prior to the ring.

I just went to the garage and bolted one up that I thought I had ready and here is the result. wobbly. I tried to post a video but it did not work. Is there a way to post videos on the forum?
 

video is not to scale but was the only way I could figure out to send it.

I am going to look into trimming my rings and make them work. Not saying anything bad about Steves parts but we are working with 50 year old parts and trying to mate them with newer technology so some fitment issues are bound to rise.

When I put the centering rings on a 1963 Galaxie rear, it also had the tapered axle flanges.   I beveled my centering rings with a dremel, and then tack welded them to the flange.  It made for a much tighter fit.   Just a process of trial and error to get the to fit better.   

I found my issue! the ft. hubs are larger diameter than the machined cut out on the back of the rotor,so they are not sitting on the machined surface of the hub, so I guess I am grinding the outer edge of the hubs down a bit.

Last edited by 70 Coupe (5/05/2017 5:21 PM)

70 Coupe wrote:

I am thinking since I have to remove the hubs to install the brackets I may as well chuck these up on the brake lathe at work and cut them down to fit vs grinding them.
 

 
I would agree with that.

MS wrote:

That grinding is covered in the instructions as a requirement, so should not really come as a surprise. I find it easier to simply grond a 45 degree chamfer on the OD of the hub so it fits inside the rotor, but using a lathe is a better way, no doubt. Do not reduce the OD of the hub, just put a chamfer on it so you do not reduce the amount of material around the knurled studs.

No where in the instructions for the FT2008-RMS, that I can find, state anything about grinding at all.  However, thanks to the forum, some friends, and a little common sense/mechanical aptitude, everything worked out.  My wobble was indeed the centering rings.

My solution: I beveled the inside of the centering ring nearest to the wheel hub, polished the inside of the centering ring, and just ever so slightly rounded the outside edge of the centering ring furthest from the hob.  This got rid of my wobble and everything looks good.  Just going to paint them up and use a small amount of RTV on the back of the rings (again closest to the wheel hub) to hold them in place.
 

After the whole not reading the instructions and then doing it correctly I have a true running rotor. No pads installed yet but getting it all mocked up.

No grinding or mods are required on the rear brake kits. Only on the front hubs.  Putting a radius on the outer Oad of the ring kind of defeats the whole purpose of it being able to center the rotor.  The big chamfer on the rotor ID makes it so there is only a small amount of the centering ring that interfaces with the rotor ID.