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(FYI, I found a previous post on similar topic, thank you.)
I thankfully got my overheating under control this past weekend. (BLEED YOUR COOLING SYSTEM!) I let the car run at idle for a good 15 minutes and it maintained temperature but the fan was always on b/c I didn't have it wired to a switch (yet). Now that I'm wiring the electric fan to a switch I noticed while the previous owner was smart enough to install an aluminum radiator, it seems the corresponding electrical fan used is a bit small. The radiator measures roughly 17 x 17 and it has a 12inch fan.
By my math the radiator surface area is 289 in^2 and the fan only covers 113in^2. 113 / 289 = 40% coverage.
I ordered a 16 inch fan which covers 201 in^2. 201 / 289 = 69.5% coverage. I read in multiple hot rod articles 70% is recommended minimum w/o a shroud which I don't have. Also, the fan I ordered is speced out at 3k CFM. If it pulls in 2.5k CFM I should be good.
Anyone upgraded to a larger fan? Advice? Am I missing something?
Anyone heard of making a custom shroud?
Anyone make an air dam?
Thanks
Last edited by TremendousWand (7/06/2017 10:48 AM)
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I know Bullet Bob made his own, and since I read about it here on the forum, an archive search should find it.
In 2 separate applications, I have had great success with the Ford Contour fan, but it requires a 24" radiator.
I have a Northern shroud. Here's a link to an aluminum one. Mine is steel. If I ever venture away from original on the 65, I'll use it.
Last edited by TimC (7/06/2017 10:28 AM)
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It's not the diameter of the fan, but rather the cfm it can flow. A proper fan shroud distributes the fan's vacuum over the entire surface of the radiator.
Typical 65-66 289 radiator is 17" x 19".
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I was a "fan" of the electric fan setup for a few years, but recently changed my mind. I was tired of the look of the flex fan, no shroud, electric pusher fan set up that still would run hotter than I wanted in slow traffic. I switched to a aluminum shroud with 16 inch puller fan. Unfortunately the motor on the 16 inch fan interfered with the waterpump pulley. I bought a replacement motor with the highest amperage I could find that was thin enough to fit. Would not flow enough air when really needed. Decided to go old school and changed everything. Went to a high flow aluminum waterpump from Jeggs, a high flow 180 degree thermostat, a 17 inch, 6 blade a/c fan with thermo clutch, and a stock type shroud that I had to slightly modify to fit my Champion radiator. I realize changing 4 things at once is not the best trouble shooting method, but I am more than happy with the results. I've tested by getting stuck in stop and go traffic in 95 degree heat for over an hour at a time. Runs between 175 to 185 degrees no matter what. It's all about the air flow!
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I've been running a Spal 30102082 (16" diameter) with excellent results. I fabbed up a real simple shroud to mount it to my radiator. Basically I used some 1x1x0.125 aluminum angle to make a frame, then a plate of 0.125" aluminum to mount the fan to the frame, and some 1x1x0.125" ears to bolt it to the radiator's existing holes. I just riveted everything together and hit it with some zinc chromate primer and some semi gloss black. I've got about 3/8" clearance between the fan and the water pump pulley bolts. Its tight, but it works. If I had it to do over again I would probably reduce the depth of the shroud to 3/4" to make belt changes easier.
This fan really moves some air. It draws over 20 amps running and over 30 at start up. A fan draws about 10 amps per 1,000 cfm moved. You will read all kinds of outrageous claims about fans moving 3,000 cfm and drawing 13 amps; that's BS. Those ratings are taken with nothing in front of the fan, so they are meaningless, because a fan is mounted to a radiator. Spal tests their fans the way they will be used. The way most manufacturers test their fans makes direct comparisons between various manufacturers impossible, and I don't think that's an accident.
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Well I bought a low end 16" fan from amazon. $50 bucks. I'll see how it goes and upgrade later if it becomes an issue.
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I've had pullers, I've had pushers. The present system is a cut down 5 blade factory mechanical with a shroud, problem solved!
Last edited by Rudi (7/07/2017 9:13 AM)
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The guys on the FE forums have talked highly of the Spal fans. They also mention using the fans from a Ford Contour too.
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Rudi wrote:
I've had pullers, I've had pushers. The present system is a cut down 5 blade factory mechanical with a shroud, problem solved!
Where did get you those large hoses for the radiator? I have some unsightly autozone generic rubber hoses.
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TremendousWand wrote:
Rudi wrote:
I've had pullers, I've had pushers. The present system is a cut down 5 blade factory mechanical with a shroud, problem solved!
Where did get you those large hoses for the radiator? I have some unsightly autozone generic rubber hoses.
The hoses are silicone from NPD.
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TremendousWand wrote:
Well I bought a low end 16" fan from amazon. $50 bucks. I'll see how it goes and upgrade later if it becomes an issue.
Don't expose it to water ever. The housings are not sealed on the cheap fans. I've used them before on my CJ5, and after sitting in the elements for a while they stop working because the motor locks up from corrosion.
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Well that will teach me to do a better job of reading the description. This 16 inch fan is just a hair under 4 inches thick. Not even close to fitting in the puller position. I see a couple of fans that are thinner but I'm hesitant about a straight fan. If the blades are straight aren't you moving a lot less air?
Last edited by TremendousWand (7/08/2017 9:54 AM)
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TremendousWand wrote:
If the blades are straight aren't you moving a lot less air?
Not necessarily. Air movement is dependant on blade pitch and speed. Curved fan blades are typically used for noise control. Modeling the air flow of a curved fan blade is usually beyond the capabilities or budget of the small fan companies, so they stick with straight blades and determine their fan blade geometry by experimentation. Straight blades with square cut ends tend to be the noisiest. Most fan blades are rounded on the end for noise control.
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