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OK, I have put the Falcon on the side burner for a bit, my boy has got me involved working on this VW Beetle, and I have to say I/we are having a blast. We started with a nice car with a lot of previous owner issues, but we have just about worked through them.
Things we have done:
It has a four wheel disc brake kit on it that was installed very poorly, we have that straightened out and it stops fantastic.
We have Narrowed the front beam and installed adjusters to lower the front end along with drop spindles.
We lowered the rear.
New wheels and Tires.
Tuned and adjusted everything.
My question is I would like to install a MECHANICAL oil pressure gauge, but with the motor in the rear, this means about 10' of oil line. The longest i have found braided line is 6', which would require a coupler in the middle. Do you think this is a bad move, and do you see any other issues running the oil line that far? Just not wild about an electric gauge.
This is what we started with
This is how it looks now
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Well.......I'm not too wild about having a 20/40psi pressurized line full of hot oil mounted knee high under the dash...pointed straight at my........body!
I vote in favor of and elec. guage.
Those oil lines(IF/when ruptured) can make a heck-uva mess. I had it happen!!!
How bout the option of elec. under/in the dash and a mech. guage in the engine compartment?!(Although a ruptured oil line in the engine compartment ain't cool either?!!)
BTW......like the "bug"!!! Gonna do the flared fenders fat tarz look?!!
Usta see one in the parking lot at work. Flared fenders...fat white letter tires....cool California rake. It was baby blue with black running boards with the little port holes windows in the rear. (It was one of the old ones butt steel.....) looked like 100mph...parked!
6sal6
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Coupler to join two six foot section of braided hose. Coil any excess hose. Cowabunga!
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I have to agree with Sal. Less grief more reliability, simpler installation.
BB
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I agree w/ Sal. There is an episode you can find on youtube for motor trend channel that discusses the differences between mechanical and electrical gauges you may find interesting. In addition, I have to think that even if you were able to get 10' of oil line for the gauge, the friction losses along that line would be so much that the gauge would read low (if it even works).
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jkordzi wrote:
I agree w/ Sal. There is an episode you can find on youtube for motor trend channel that discusses the differences between mechanical and electrical gauges you may find interesting. In addition, I have to think that even if you were able to get 10' of oil line for the gauge, the friction losses along that line would be so much that the gauge would read low (if it even works).
There is no flow through the line so there are no friction losses. It is a filled hydraulic system, the pressure at the engine end of the sensor tube is the same at the gauge.
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I have electric Autometer gauges in my 66. Work great!
If you want a mechanical gauge, why not route a 3/16" hard line to the car body from the gauge back to the engine compartment, then a short flex line to the engine?
Don't forget your water temp gauge! ‼️‼️‼️‼️
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Hornman wrote:
jkordzi wrote:
I agree w/ Sal. There is an episode you can find on youtube for motor trend channel that discusses the differences between mechanical and electrical gauges you may find interesting. In addition, I have to think that even if you were able to get 10' of oil line for the gauge, the friction losses along that line would be so much that the gauge would read low (if it even works).
There is no flow through the line so there are no friction losses. It is a filled hydraulic system, the pressure at the engine end of the sensor tube is the same at the gauge.
That would be true if it was in fact a filled hydraulic system. However, every time the engine is shut off the oil drains back into the engine to a degree. Every clear plastic oil pressure line I've ever seen exhibits this behavior and you can see the air bubbles, which is why these lines are impossible to bleed, unlike a brake line. So there is movement when the engine is started and the air bubbles compress. There is also movement inside the gauge when the bourdon tube unwinds to move the needle. However, now that I think about it, I think you are probably right in that after the engine is running and the air bubbles are compressed the pressure losses are probably negligible even at 10'. The equation for friction loss in a pipe has the square of the velocity as a direct multiplier and it will be very low.
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I had an Austin 850 (precursor to the Mini Cooper) once. I installed an oil pressure gauge driven by oil thru a plastic tube. It was constantly blowing out the under dash connection resulting on oil all over the inside of the car. Never again. I do still have one that I use temporarily under the hood when I need to see the oil pressure when working on the engine. I plug it into the oil pressure sending unit space and it comes off as soon as I am done.
Never use one in my opinion.
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Kar wrote:
OK, I have put the Falcon on the side burner for a bit,
What model Falcon do you own? I am quite partial to the wagons myself.
Great looking Beetle by the way!
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1963 Two Door Sedan / Post,
With my daughter starting College this fall, and three sons, the car projects of any magnitude have been shelved for now. We bought this Bug as a daily driver for my oldest boy back and forth to High School (about 3 miles). After getting it we have decided that it is way too good of shape to be put on the road year round. He is looking for another one in somewhat rougher / cheaper condition to turn into a Baja Bug and drive daily. I figure after a winter in a bug, a 200,000 mile Camry or Accord wont look so bad.
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As a former beetle owner I can say there is nothing more messy than having a line break inside the car. I had a brake line rupture between the seats. Yes the factory lines on a 64 bug are routed through the interior which would be how you would need to route your gage line. Go electric. Mine survived for 250 k miles with the electric gage.
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Okay, but there is a world of difference between Nylon or copper tubing and Teflon lined brained stainless line. I would never use Nylon or copper inside the car. The braided hose will be fine. I've had one running a fuel pressure gauge in my Camaro for years (no, there isn't fuel going into my cabin; I use an isolator that uses a glycol based fluid from the isolator to the gauge with the isolator in the engine compartment). Threaded fittings, so nothing to blow off. Never had a problem.
I will say that an electric gauge is really just about as accurate, and far less hassle to run. I kept my '67 electric because that's what it was stock. Wiring was already there, I just swapped in the Autometer sender when I built my dash.
Nice looking bug BTW, my father-in-law has a '72 he fully restored. He's working on a Kharman Ghia convertible now.
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Kar wrote:
1963 Two Door Sedan / Post,
With my daughter starting College this fall, and three sons, the car projects of any magnitude have been shelved for now. We bought this Bug as a daily driver for my oldest boy back and forth to High School (about 3 miles). After getting it we have decided that it is way too good of shape to be put on the road year round. He is looking for another one in somewhat rougher / cheaper condition to turn into a Baja Bug and drive daily. I figure after a winter in a bug, a 200,000 mile Camry or Accord wont look so bad.
Nice man! Nice... I am looking around for a 1960 wagon. Love them... Wife mentioned that we could get one and our son (when he is licensed to drive), could use it as his car. I am not opposed to this totally, but just wonder how a kid would go with such a vehicle. I guess I did ok with my first car being one from the mid 60's, but I grew up working on and riding in 60's vehicles.
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I also had the plastic oil line to the mechanical gauge break inside the car (red carpet), created quite the mess. I'd go with the electric gauge. If you're concerned with accuracy, use a mechanical gauge to get a reading at the engine, remove this gauge and connect the electrical gauge for comparison.
I'll note that after the plastic tubing experience, I've used 1/8" soft-wall copper tubing (available at hardware stores) using the gauge supplied fittings without any incidents.
I'll add that once I used 1/4' copper tubing and was surprised at the mechanical engine noise transmitted by the tubing into the interior of the car.
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