Before modifying anything you need to drive the car.  The springs haven't settled yet.  With aluminum heads and intake the engine is 70lbs lighter than stock.  You may have to cut half a coil off the springs to get the height you want, but you can't tell that until you get them settled as see what final ride height is going to be. 

Also, how thick is the isolator on top of the springs?  Stock is 1/4" thick, and that's what you want.  I've seen them up to 1" thick and those raise the ride height by 3/4" over stock. 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Before modifying anything you need to drive the car.  The springs haven't settled yet.  With aluminum heads and intake the engine is 70lbs lighter than stock.  You may have to cut half a coil off the springs to get the height you want, but you can't tell that until you get them settled as see what final ride height is going to be. 

Also, how thick is the isolator on top of the springs?  Stock is 1/4" thick, and that's what you want.  I've seen them up to 1" thick and those raise the ride height by 3/4" over stock. 

the isolator is 1/4  and i got original head  with bigger  heavier alternator and ac compressor and bracket .
i will be surprised if the car will lay down a little after driving .  the feelings is that the springs are working a lot .

trying to bump i feel that shocks are working better and the rest is still spongy 

After doing the drop, you're supposed to remove about half the thickness of the shims, at each mounting point.
I don't think that'll make much difference here but something to followup on.    Visually, what does the camber
look like?

Bullet Bob wrote:

Ah, I don't want to offend but when I did the "Shelby Drop" I had to get my head around just what it was doing and why it did it.  So.....at the risk of asking a stupid, offensive question...you did LOWER the UCA, didn't you?  

​Sorry, but I had to ask.

BB

 
No sorry ! Evil is in details ....but yes now i got 4 holes each side . 1 inch down  and 1/8 bach

gjz30075 wrote:

After doing the drop, you're supposed to remove about half the thickness of the shims, at each mounting point.
I don't think that'll make much difference here but something to followup on.    Visually, what does the camber
look like?

 
I take note of every shim in each position znd left 1/8 from everyone ax suggested .
Visually i got positive camber in drivet and zero on passenger .
But i can see this only with car up.
.i got no tools for camber caster

Greg B wrote:

Did you tighten the lower control arm while the car is off the ground?   If so, all the tension is on that rubber.  

 
No . I torque it after was down

MS wrote:

Roll it. The wheels cannot slide sideways to get in their normal position until the car is rolled a good amount.
Laws of physics dictate if you lower the uca mounts, the car WILL SIT LOWER.

 
Yes is quite strange but i look 4 times before drill and done step by step .
The only thing i can say is that old shocks were worne and i used the old spring without any cut.
I had feelings that  springs are too long  .
The new shocks are set at third of 4 position but this does not have influence on ride height .
I dont know what to say ....
Thanks by now !

From reading your responses I can't tell if the car has been driven after the drop.  Drive the car at least two kilometers and then measure. 
Alternatively, just to get rid of the wheels being inbroad due to jacking and having the suspension decompress.  Just jack up and lower each side separately with the jack under the lower control arm.  Do one side then the other.

Last edited by JSHarvey (10/14/2017 10:41 PM)

JSHarvey wrote:

From reading your responses I can't tell if the car has been driven after the drop.  Drive the car at least two kilometers and then measure. 
Alternatively, just to get rid of the wheels being inbroad due to jacking and having the suspension decompress.  Just jack up and lower each side separately with the jack under the lower control arm.  Do one side then the other.

 
I jack the car from the lower arm before i place the motor and i lift the whole car .
Now i got engine in , so i can try again and see what happens .
By now i cant drive it because the car is not complete .
Thanks

before lowering the front off jacks, lay some trash bags on the floor under the tires.  coming down. the tires will slide easier outward, then roll the car back off the bags and pick 'em up.

Soooooooooo before the Arning/Shelby drop was the car still high in the front?
If so...you have the wrong springs in it. 
Get new springs or cut a coil(or two) off the ones you have now.
IF you cut the springs you have now........it's going to ride VERY rough.
6sally6 

Yes, you must roll the car. It is very possible for the car to appear to be a lot higher directly after you put it down. This is because of the way the suspension is set up on these cars. You may notice that visually, when you lift the car off of the ground, you get a lot of negative camber. But when the car is back on the ground and has been driven a bit, the tires are straight or have positive camber.

When you put the car back on the ground, it is essentially put down with the tires rolled onto the outside edge. This then binds the suspension and keeps it from sitting down right. Unless you are capable of kicking the inside of the tires to force the whole contact patch to sit down level (you aren't), you will not be able to get the suspension to settle correctly. Rubber just sticks to the floor real well. If you roll the car forwards and backwards a few times though, perhaps a few meters, then the tire will naturally settle down over the entire contact patch instead of being rolled onto the outside edge, and the suspension will settle down.

If the car was not sitting high beforehand, then it shouldn't be sitting high now. New shocks will not impact this.