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I find I have rear tire rubbing the fender lip when turning into a driveway with a dip at the entrance. What is the best way to roll the fender lip for clearance? It isn't real bad, but enough to cut the tire sidewall slightly. Thanks Jerry
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The Eastwood fender roller is on sale - [url]
I used it on my rear fender lips and will do the front fenders before they are primed. The instructions say that it is not intended for double-layer edges/lips like the rear wheel openings. It was tough going but I managed. If you heat the areas that you want to roll it is supposed to prevent paint damage. Mine was in bare metal so I didn't have to fight that problem. I rolled essentially the whole opening but if you know where you are rubbing you may only need to do a partial arc.
Other have suggested a baseball bat rolled between the tire and fender. This should work if you don't get too aggressive and is less expensive if you have a bat.
Is is rubbing on both sides? The axle may be offset slightly taking up clearance on one side and there can be a fair amount of variation in the actual position of the quarter panel/fender openings. There may be a little play in the perches to allow you to shift the axle slightly. Of course there are narrower tires and different wheel offsets but I doubt you want to go down that path.
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As Gary said, typical rear end is 3/8” or more towards one side. You can slot the index holes on the spring perches sideways to move it over a bit.
If all else fails, wheels and tires that fit will do the trick!
I have used a ballpeen hammer to adjust the fender double lip. It takes a heck of alot of patience to make it smooth. A flapper wheel will allow you to cut the lip back about 1/4” without bending anything.
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Eastwood was able to stop paying a 35 dollar royalty last year when the patent ran out on the fender roller. They are now readily available much cheaper. Amazon and Ebay are also selling them.
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The Eastwood fender roller is really not designed to work on the rear Mustang fender area. It doesn't like the double metal lip that exists there. I bought it and found that out. It worked sort of for me but just be aware it is better suited for front fender or single metal layer area.
Don't forget to heat the paint up to prevent cracking.
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I actually had good luck rolling my rear quarter panels. But I did use a mallet to get it started, and I did it before paint.
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I heard of a guy with a Camaro that had a posi rear end and could not turn the wheel hub with the fender roller on it so he had a friend start the car, put it in low gear it in gear and he could monitor the progress.
I guess it didn't work out very well. Chevy owners, jeez!
Sorry no pictures.
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I have used my Eastwood roller on several Mustangs front and rear with very good results. It is a finesse operation not brute force. It takes many passes with small adjustments every so often. When you get the angle of the roller correct, it works pretty slick.
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Rudi wrote:
I heard of a guy with a Camaro that had a posi rear end and could not turn the wheel hub with the fender roller on it so he had a friend start the car, put it in low gear it in gear and he could monitor the progress.
I guess it didn't work out very well. Chevy owners, jeez!
Sorry no pictures.
Well I guess I'm just a closet-Chebby guy at heart!........I had the same idea.
Just attach everything.....tighten it down "goo-den-tite"....rev to 6 grand and dump the clutch!!
What's worng wid dat?!!?
Prolly do both sides in what.......coupla minutes?!??
6sal6
Last edited by 6sally6 (12/08/2017 6:06 PM)
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Rudi wrote:
I heard of a guy with a Camaro that had a posi rear end and could not turn the wheel hub with the fender roller on it so he had a friend start the car, put it in low gear it in gear and he could monitor the progress.
I guess it didn't work out very well. Chevy owners, jeez!
Sorry no pictures.
Good grief! Would love to have seen that on video.
I probably should have rolled my fenders too before it went to paint. Oh well.
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Well heck...back in the 80's my buddies and I just used an aluminum bat and jammed that sucker between the tire and lip. All done in a few passes.
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