| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
Anybody have any strong feelings one way or the other in fluid choice for a brand new brake system?
I have never run dot 5 in anything, but I am thinking of using it in my mustang because it won’t destroy paint, and does not absorb water. Any reason to not go dot 5?
I’m running disk / disk with all new components lines and hoses.
Offline
I'm not a fan of DOT 5 fluid. It never seems to produce a confidence inspiring pedal. Regular DOT 3 or 4 produces a great pedal and so long as you bleed it through every 2 years I've yet to have a caliper or wheel cylinder on any of my vehicles go bad.
Offline
I switched 4 years age to Dot 5 when I redid engine compartment, front suspension. At the time I installed a SS brake line kit, new calipers and master so it was easy to switch. I also have Dot 5 for the clutch.
Really haven't seen a difference in pedal or loss of braking performance. I Know some way some how brake fluid will spill so my hard work is still lookin good
Offline
I run silicone fluid in hydraulic clutches and low performance applications. It is nice since it has a lower attraction to moisture. BUT it has a lower bulk modulus so it is more spongy than a good racing fluid. Any car I put on the track gets the Wilwood stuff. If you have a dual master cylinder set-up that has the two masters beside each other with a balance bar it is especially noticeable and unnerving! Makes it real hard to get the front to rear balance consistent.
Offline
Motul 600
Motul 600 in case you missed it.
That's it. Nothing else.
Offline
Been using DOT 5 since I redid the engine bay before the 331 install. I did not want any brake fluid damage to the new paint.
For my kind of driving it has performed very well, doubt if I could make out any difference between it or the corrosive and hygroscopic regular fluid.
At the time I put in a new master cylinder, line lock and all stinless steel brake lines.
Last edited by Rudi (2/16/2018 10:17 AM)
Offline
Lots of good points one way or the other. Now I am more up in the air than I was last night.
Offline
I can tell you 2 major things to keep an eye on with dot 5 brake fluid. First, although the fluid is not hydroscopic (absorbs water from humidity in air like regular brake fluid), water will pool like air bubbles in the fluid, so it is really important to bleed very well initially and everyv6 mos or so.
Secondly, dot 5 has a bad flaw in that once it reaches its boiling point, it becomes compressible. I found this out in our Shelby clone during a race at Laguna seca....very unnerving in the middle of a turn.
But, for street cars that don't do crazy braking it is fine. My friend uses it in all his old cars that have 2 wheel cylinders per wheel, as it keeps them from braking down, as they are very expensive to rebuild or have sleeved. I do recommend Castro dot 3/4 brake fluid as it has a good boiling point and is lma rated so it is good with different types of rubber/seals. For racing, nothing beats the motul 600, but it costs a fortune.
Offline
cougrnut wrote:
I can tell you 2 major things to keep an eye on with dot 5 brake fluid. First, although the fluid is not hydroscopic (absorbs water from humidity in air like regular brake fluid), water will pool like air bubbles in the fluid, so it is really important to bleed very well initially and everyv6 mos or so.
Secondly, dot 5 has a bad flaw in that once it reaches its boiling point, it becomes compressible. I found this out in our Shelby clone during a race at Laguna seca....very unnerving in the middle of a turn.
But, for street cars that don't do crazy braking it is fine. My friend uses it in all his old cars that have 2 wheel cylinders per wheel, as it keeps them from braking down, as they are very expensive to rebuild or have sleeved. I do recommend Castro dot 3/4 brake fluid as it has a good boiling point and is lma rated so it is good with different types of rubber/seals. For racing, nothing beats the motul 600, but it costs a fortune.
Interesting points, and if the system does in fact require periodic maintenance is it really worth the switch? If you're going to have to bleed it every 6 months anyway I submit that doing that with a system running DOT 3 or 4 will yield the exact same results without having to switch the fluid over. I can see the DOT 5 in rarely driven vehicles, or vehicles only driven at slow speed for parades, etc. In a car that sees actual street use I just can't see it. How hard I want to brake and how hard I need to brake aren't often the same thing. I'm in control of MY vehicle at all times, but I can't control the other guy.
Interesting the potential fluid spills seem to top the list of reasons why people have converted. I just make sure to pour brake fluid from a small bottle that is not all the way full and stuff some rags around the master cylinder while filling. I've yet to lose any paint to brake fluid.
Offline
I have a lot of experience with DOT 5 in my 2005 Harley. It came from the factory with DOT 5.
DOT 5 will be rock solid just like DOT 3 if it is bled properly. DOT 5 can hold micro bubbles when it is agitated. This is why you don't find DOT 5 used in an anti-lock braking system. This is also why the pedal feel is spongy when you try to bleed it right after filling an empty system. This happened to me when I changed front calipers on my Harley. To get back the rock solid brake lever feel, I did a touch up bleed to my front brakes each morning for a few days after the installation. Over night, the micro bubbles had a chance to migrate to the bleed valve in the caliper and the touch up bleed released these. Each time the lever became more solid. After a few days it was rock solid. I did this work back in 2007. I still have the bike and still take it on trips. I've never had any issues with the front brake system. So if you use DOT 5, remember this procedure if you have trouble with a spongy pedal feel.
Offline
I wonder if DOT 5 becomes compressible when it boils because it does form and hold micro bubbles? That makes sense to me; however, I know that what makes sense logically often is different than reality.
Offline
Rufus68 wrote:
I have a lot of experience with DOT 5 in my 2005 Harley. It came from the factory with DOT 5.
DOT 5 will be rock solid just like DOT 3 if it is bled properly. DOT 5 can hold micro bubbles when it is agitated. This is why you don't find DOT 5 used in an anti-lock braking system. This is also why the pedal feel is spongy when you try to bleed it right after filling an empty system. This happened to me when I changed front calipers on my Harley. To get back the rock solid brake lever feel, I did a touch up bleed to my front brakes each morning for a few days after the installation. Over night, the micro bubbles had a chance to migrate to the bleed valve in the caliper and the touch up bleed released these. Each time the lever became more solid. After a few days it was rock solid. I did this work back in 2007. I still have the bike and still take it on trips. I've never had any issues with the front brake system. So if you use DOT 5, remember this procedure if you have trouble with a spongy pedal feel.
I still have a half full bottle of DOT 5 on the shelf from my Dad's old Harley. He'll be gone 19 years in June. Its funny, when this discussion first started I thought about that white pint bottle that's been on my shelf for 22 years.
Offline
Rear hoses are supposed to arrive today from Crown. I might be bleeding brakes tomorrow night...
So far I have only found one non generic branded brake fluid at 2 of the local parts houses (valvoline “synthetic” dot 3-4). Might have to drive 120 miles to get some decent fluid. For what it is worth it isn’t like my car has some show grade paint, or is any sort of “survivor”, so the remote possibility of paint damage isn’t a huge deal.
On the other hand once I get it together it will most likely see some toying around and maybe some autocross.
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |