Port EFI always uses a single plane manifold.  With fuel being sprayed directly at the back on the intake valve, and the manifold only flowing air there's no benefit to a dual plane intake anymore.  Torque curve in an EFI system is primarily dictated by runner length, which is why factory intake often have very long runners. 

Edelbrock tens to make nice stuff.  I'm sure you'll be happy with it.

If you have to weld, cut, or grind on a fuel tank I would advise getting all the gas out, and then rinse it out with alcohol (straight ethanol would be best; its what they use at the refineries to flush lines (if you live in a state that will sell it grain alcohol like Everclear is 190 proof, or 95% pure ethanol)).  If you want to go one step further you can purge it with nitrogen gas.  Alcohol may catch fire, but it doesn't burn very hot and is easily extinguished. 

I don't know what that EB system requires butt (TS&T) I've been running a Walbro external pump for about 25K miles so far and it works just fine and is quiet.  I have an FS-130 fuel screen on the pickup tube of the stock sender (needed to make an adapter) and a standard Ford filter on the pump discharge.  I put a 90 degree fitting on the tank drain bung to accommodate the fuel return line.  I've read a lot of stuff about how noisy they are and how hot they will run externally but this Walbro does a fine job and even though I'm deaf as a post I know it's quiet as there are no screechy, whinny noises emanating from the passenger seat.  Just sayin', cheaper, simpler, no trunk floor issues, and works fine. 

You absolutely will need to run a vent line from the tank (mine is high on the filler neck) if this is a circulating system or the tank will start to resemble a beach ball...don't ax how I know this.  The stock gas cap will vent "in" just fine but it WILL NOT vent "out".

Good luck, keep us up to date.

BB 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (2/25/2018 8:43 PM)

KM wrote:

Thanks for the advise ,If it wasn't for being a newer tank I would by new . My plan is to drain it wash it out with solvent but alcohol sound ok , The follow that with Marine clean, May also purge with nitrogen still have my tanks and regulator from my HVAC days ,This is one job I am not looking forwards to.

A new tank would be the safest approach.

Purging with nitrogen should be more than just a "may also" option. Its hard to get a BOOM from any leftover  fumes in the tank leaching from the metal if the nitrogen has turned it into an oxygen deficient atmosphere. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area too, so the purge doesn't turn the air you are breathing oxygen deficient and someone finds you unconscious in the floor.
 

It depends on several things.  How much are you willing to spend vs. DIY?  Megaquirt is a great option, but you have to build and tune the system yourself.  There is considerable forum support though.

Ford EECIV using a fabricated intake is an option.

Beyond that I don't have much experience with the modern aftermarket EFI systems, so I'll defer the people who do. 

Throttle body injection is IMO junk.  In some instances its better than a carb (off roading for one), but its too much compromise.  The fuel hits the throttle blades and the flow is crap.  Its batch fire, so you're spraying fuel at cylinders that do not need fuel, so its inefficient.  About the best that can be said is its not a carb.

Sequential port EFI is where its at.  You made a good choice I think.

Spend the money to buy a god flare tool.  The typical parts store flare tools will break when trying to flare stainless because its too hard.  Check the manufacturer's recommendations.  If you don't see stainless steel listed move on.  Last I checked a good flare tool is going to be in the $250-$300 range I think, but you are going to need it especially with the size lines you will be using.

Speaking of which, you can use 5/16" line for supply and 1/4" for return.  A lot of guys have 3/8" stuck in their heads for performance applications, but that only applies to carbs.  Carbs operate at only a few psi of system pressure, so you need to make that up in volume, and thus need a larger line.  EFI operates at about 10 times the pressure of a carb, so there's plenty of movement of the fuel, and no need to upsize the lines.  The V8 Fox body cars had 5/16" supply lines, and they have been found to be fine until going beyond a 42 lbs/hr injector, which is huge (think giant blower or turbo to need that much fuel). 

Update on conversion , Making some necessary improvement to wiring , The ECU on the Fitech system requires constant power on the main power in , This is so it can save data from the last run, I have removed the battery kill on the main harness battery is in back just to make room for other equipment Msd relays etc. Double checking all grounds and made a block that ties the grounds back to the battery ground cable runs front to back. Pump will be in tank I will not be using the pulse width modulation on the ECU, It is supposed to handle 15 amps , My load will be just a relay load .Also will be adding an inertia switch in relay wiring Added a painless auxiliary fuse block also. Sorry photo is upside down.   
 

KM wrote:

Update on conversion , Making some necessary improvement to wiring , The ECU on the Fitech system requires constant power on the main power in , This is so it can save data from the last run, I have removed the battery kill on the main harness battery is in back just to make room for other equipment Msd relays etc. Double checking all grounds and made a block that ties the grounds back to the battery ground cable runs front to back. Pump will be in tank I will not be using the pulse width modulation on the ECU, It is supposed to handle 15 amps , My load will be just a relay load .Also will be adding an inertia switch in relay wiring Added a painless auxiliary fuse block also. Sorry photo is upside down.   
 

 
Don HAD TO HAVE BEEN INVOLVED with that wiring.

Not much of a update locked the MSD distributors centrifugal advance out , Seemed funny to tear a brand new distributor apart but it was not a hard job , Now need to make sure it put it at TDC on #1 back it up to 10 degree before and phase the distributor in .Working on route of fuel lines and installing a door in floor of trunk. Found door at tanks inc. And once it is all done the fi tech will control timing.

Latest update , If you go with Fi Tech 351 w system And receive the same intake I did you will need to use ARP studs Bolts are too short, Also used Fel Pro 1250-s3 intake gasket

Bullet Bob wrote:

I don't know what that EB system requires butt (TS&T) I've been running a Walbro external pump for about 25K miles so far and it works just fine and is quiet.  I have an FS-130 fuel screen on the pickup tube of the stock sender (needed to make an adapter) and a standard Ford filter on the pump discharge.  I put a 90 degree fitting on the tank drain bung to accommodate the fuel return line.  I've read a lot of stuff about how noisy they are and how hot they will run externally but this Walbro does a fine job and even though I'm deaf as a post I know it's quiet as there are no screechy, whinny noises emanating from the passenger seat.  Just sayin', cheaper, simpler, no trunk floor issues, and works fine. 

You absolutely will need to run a vent line from the tank (mine is high on the filler neck) if this is a circulating system or the tank will start to resemble a beach ball...don't ax how I know this.  The stock gas cap will vent "in" just fine but it WILL NOT vent "out".

Good luck, keep us up to date.

BB 

I'm confused.  I thought a stock vented gas cap was made to relieve pressure out whenever the pressure reached 3psi due to heat build up in the tank.  I have my return line from the FiTech system into the fuel filler neck and the supply line out of the stock fuel sender line and haven't had any problem.  Am I missing something?  thanks  Jerry