Welcome to the forum!

My T-5 swap was a little different because I used the 4-speed bellhousing and an adapter plate, but I seem to recall that you could use the automatic transmission starter with a T-5 bellhousing.
 

WELCOME to FYIFORD!  Glad you found us.

The starter depends on what flywheel you are using.  If you have an early 289 flywheel, you will need an early starter for a manual transmission.  If using a later design flywheel that would work on a 28 ounce engine, it may or may not require the automatic type starter.  All of the 50 ounce type flywheels for the Fox 5.0 used an automatic type starter.  It has a gear that protrudes from the starter motor farther than the manual transmission starters from the earlier cars.
If your car was a three or four speed 289 and you are using the original flywheel, you will use the original manual trans starter.

So...what flywheel are you using? 

 

This is the flywheel I ordered from summit.  Looks like 157 tooth, 28oz imbalance, 10 inch.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-fw163

Fox body run a 157 not a 164

Try the manual....................if it grind and raises-cain....use the A/T one.
You WILL know if its the worng starter before you damage anything!
6sally6
Welcome sir!!

BillyC wrote:

Tom I sent you a PM.

 
After I sent the PM I checked my records. I used a starter from an '85 Mustang 5.0

Ah, the perils of asking questions on internet forums.  You get answers that are all real good info, but lacking the proper information to make an informed decision.  You get generalizations that are not necessarily applicable to your car.

OK, the REAL ANSWER...
That Summit flywheel is a stock replacement for an early 289 with 10" clutch.  It will need the early style starter designed for a manual transmission.  Your automatic starter will not work, but can be used for a core for the new one.  The Fox gear reduction starter will not work.  The 10" clutch will work fine if not high HP.

My suggestion, if this is a performance application.:
Return the flywheel and replace it with the billet steel Ford Racing 157 tooth flywheel with 28 ounce balance designed for the 10.5" clutch.  THEN, you can use your existing starter or the Fox gear reduction starter.  You will also have more clutches to choose from with the larger 10.5" diaphragm Fox Mustang 5.0 clutches that are so plentiful.  The 10.5" stock clutches will perform better than a stock 10" clutch.  Centerforce 10.5" dual friction is my choice for a performance car.

The T5 will help tame the 3.73 gears, especially on the highway.

Make sure you're timing is set right on that engine.  They are low compression, and will tolerate timing that is radically wrong without pining (yes, I know this from firsthand experience).  Get an advance kit and use the lightest springs in the kit.  You will want about 38 degrees total timing.  Set timing, adjust your carb accordingly and that little 289 will surprise you.  Its not going to be a high HP stroker engine, but with a manual trans, deep rear gear, and a fairly light car it'll move pretty good. 

The summit flywheel might require the automatic starter.  This is why I like using Ford or Ford Performance parts.  When the aftermarket starts making Chinese parts, no telling what specs they are built to.  Your summit flywheel said it was stock replacement for 28 ounce 10” clutch, 157 tooth. Apparently it has the shallow ring gear that uses automatic or later starter.

This might help.

http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/which_starter_for_Ford_Small_Block_T5-TKO_conversion.htm

Shimming a Chevy starter is different than shimming a Ford starter.  The Ford starter is located positively by the flange on the starter fitting tightly into the hole in the block plate.  As long as the shims allow the starter flange to positively fit inside the blockplate hole, you are OK.  If the shims move the starter too far out, the starter will move when engaged.  There is a tremendous amount of force trying to push the starter gear away (radially) from the ring gear.

MS wrote:

Shimming a Chevy starter is different than shimming a Ford starter.  The Ford starter is located positively by the flange on the starter fitting tightly into the hole in the block plate.  As long as the shims allow the starter flange to positively fit inside the blockplate hole, you are OK.  If the shims move the starter too far out, the starter will move when engaged.  There is a tremendous amount of force trying to push the starter gear away (radially) from the ring gear.

With a Chevy you are changing the distance between the ring gear and the starter gear.  With a Ford you are changing the distance between the starter housing and the backside of the flywheel/flexplate.  Moving it back 3/32" doesn't remove it entirely from the register in the block plate.  I suspect that's why the shims they sell spec out at that thickness and no more.