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I had my 289 bored out .30. When asked for a new PCV, they sold me same PCV as a stock 289. There's no breather tube at the oil filler cap. I'm experiencing what I believe to be excessive blow-by because I can smell it going down the road sometimes but usually after acceleration at high RPMs. Plus its seaping oil onto the valve cover at the oil filler cap and around Edelbrock torker 289 manifold gaskets.
Can I run a pcv that stays open a little bit longer on acceleration? And wouldn't this help with blow-by and oil seepage?
Thanks for your help!
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68 three speed.
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Check this site for info
Usually a breather cap on one valve cover and PCV on the other so yo have a complete path througn engine
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Thank you, I saw that. I was wondering if I went to a 351 PCV or something would it be harder to stay closed?
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Since blow-by creates positive pressure inside your crankcase, your PCV valve can not stay closed unless it is gummed up. I doubt that you need a larger PCV valve. What you haven't told us is where you have the PCV hose connected to. If you have it connected to a vacuum port that is above the throttle plates, that could be part of the issue. Also, if you have it vented straight to atmosphere, that will reduce the flow. The engine vacuum helps pull the gasses out of the crankcase through the PCV.
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I bought one of the M/E wagner PCV's. A little pricey but got it through a group buy for around $95 shipped and after receiving it I feel I got what I paid for.
But you look it over and examine it you can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into it's making . And you adjust to your engine combo using a vacuum gauge, no guess work
FYI i have no association with M/E Wagner
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2nd on the m/e Wagner.
One of my coworkers has one on his project. Nice piece, was easy to tune.
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Proof positive you learn something new every day. Had it not been for this forum I likely would have gone the rest of my life not knowing such a device existed.
Now the next question: how do we put together a group buy?
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Contact M/E Wagner they will set it up, all they need is 8 orders. You just have to supply them 8 names and emails and they send each individual an invoice $96.75 free shipping
BTW you'll even be impress with the packaging, spare parts and and wrenches individually baged and labeled
Last edited by Grabber Blu (4/05/2018 6:10 AM)
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I'm very interested. Add me to a list if we get enough interest.
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Already have one on my ‘66. I had NO idea how any of that worked, or why. Dang was I enlightened. I just changed the factory valve on the ‘92 which had never been touched cuz I didn’t even know it was there. It’s in the back of the engine totally hidden. 280,000 miles and 25 years. I’m in for a group buy on my next one!
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I'm going to start a thread for the group buy. I can use 3 of them, with zakdaddy 99 we need 4 more people I think.
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I see now that its 8 purchases, still, not a big deal I don't think. I started a new thread for it. PM me if you want in on the group buy.
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Who knew someone made a tuneable PCV valve? Who knew PCV calves could be tuned?
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Chaplin wrote:
Who knew someone made a tuneable PCV valve? Who knew PCV calves could be tuned?
Oem's have a lot of different PCV's for there lines. Each one may have a different orifice ,spring and flow rates. The aftermarket tends to condense the listings so you have a better chance you don't' have the correct one.
Enter cars like our which may be modified with different cams, exhaust etc. So what the correct PCV now? I think the M/E Wagner is a good solution. May help to prevent some pesky oil leaks or even oil sweat or vapor around gaskets.
May help with vacuum for power brakes? PCV is a calibrated controlled vacuum leak
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Wonder how this would work on a blown engine? Have any of you guys tried one on a turbo/supercharged motor?
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You could DIY an adjustable PCV like this guy did:
Or you could select a PCV valve from a high performance engine that had a hot cam like the 70 Z-28. That's what I did and so far it's worked out pretty well.
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These M/E's are dual flow, adjustable for idle and a different adjusted flow for cruise. Two different flow paths. Regular PCV's have one path so one flow rate
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Its connected to the intake. 20 lbs vacuum.
Rufus68 wrote:
Since blow-by creates positive pressure inside your crankcase, your PCV valve can not stay closed unless it is gummed up. I doubt that you need a larger PCV valve. What you haven't told us is where you have the PCV hose connected to. If you have it connected to a vacuum port that is above the throttle plates, that could be part of the issue. Also, if you have it vented straight to atmosphere, that will reduce the flow. The engine vacuum helps pull the gasses out of the crankcase through the PCV.
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Thanks a lot guys, for all your replies! Apparently there's not too much to be very concerned about for now. It runs great and gets 18-20 mpg. So who knows... One good idea was an oil filler cap with a pcv in it, and vent cap the other smaller hole side. Another (should have known) was allow half quart low, its still in the safe zone. Another was a pcv in-line blow-by catch can if necessary. Eventually I'll have to reset the edelbrock torquer 289 intake, hopefully that'll correct the leak at the front and rear. Again, I thank yall. Glad y'all had fun with it too. Fun group!
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Here's a link to the group buy thread:
PM me if you're interested.
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daily driver wrote:
Its connected to the intake. 20 lbs vacuum.
My 302 has the PCV also connected to the intake just behind the carb. I have the Ford stamped steel valve covers. A couple of years ago, I decided to route the PCV to atmosphere thinking it would stop sending the oil vapors through the combustion chambers and would plug the "vacuum leak" caused by the PCV hose. This was a big mistake. Oil started pouring from my rear main seal due to the positive pressure inside the crankcase. I reconnected the PCV hose to the intake port and the oil leak reduced to only drops. Since it didn't stop, I changed the vented oil filler cap in the other valve cover to a non-vented oil filler cap. The oil leak completely stopped. The engine runs and idles great as well as not leaking oil. The oil does not seem to get excessively dirty between oil changes. I know others think I need a vented oil filler cap for my PCV system to work properly; however, the rear main seal leaks a little with a vented oil filler cap. It does not leak the way I have it. So I'm satisfied with it running great and not leaking oil the way it is.
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Your rear main is the vent
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I disagree. Assuming it is not pulling a very slight negative pressure, the path of least resistance would be the dip stick. Regardless, there would be very little flow in anyway. The biggest supply of vented gasses is the blow-by.
Last edited by Rufus68 (4/06/2018 8:24 AM)
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I was kinda joking and didn't express that. You don't have unrestricted fresh air flow through crankcase, each to his own. I prefer the way the engineers designed the system to work
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