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6/02/2018 6:39 PM  #1


Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.


The bit in the center does the Shelby Drop holes better than anything I have found.  It will actually drill a round hole in the shocktower, vs using a twist bit which will give you an oversized hole when drilling in thin metal.  Yeah, either way works, but I find the process much easier using a step bit.  I use it with a cordless drill.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

6/02/2018 8:02 PM  #2


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

Yep!!! Luv me some step drill bits. Been using them since  watching OC Choppers Paulie Jr. drill holes in motorcycles!
6s6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

6/02/2018 8:32 PM  #3


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

6sally6 wrote:

Yep!!! Luv me some step drill bits. Been using them since  watching OC Choppers Paulie Jr. drill holes in motorcycles!
6s6

 
That’s funny!  That was the first place I saw them too and have been using them ever since. Love ‘em.

 

6/02/2018 9:04 PM  #4


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

6sally6 wrote:

Yep!!! Luv me some step drill bits. Been using them since  watching OC Choppers Paulie Jr. drill holes in motorcycles!
6s6

Ditto.
 


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

6/03/2018 5:23 AM  #5


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

Electricians have been using them for years.  In commercial work its common to have to drill fairly large diameter holes in metal boxes to install conduit or MC cable, and this is what they have been using for at least the last 15 years (when I first noticed them).  Definitely a great choice for drilling holes in sheetmetal. 

For doing the Shelby/Arning drop I center punched the holes using a transfer punch, and then used convention drill bits starting at 1/8", then stepping up in 1/16" intervals (3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2"), and finally per Daze's recommendations used a 17/32" bit for the final step.  I noticed that the factory holes in the shock tower definitely seemed to be 17/32", not 1/2", because a 1/2" bit placed in them had a fair amount of slop.  I also noticed that the UCA bolts would not go into a 1/2" hole, even once deburred.  I considered using one of my unibits, but they only step in 1/16" increments and knowing that 1/2" was too small and considering 9/16" too big I chose the conventional route.  Thought, I suppose I could have gone up to 1/2" with the unibit and then drilled the final 17/32" hole with a conventional bit.  I will say, I broke two 1/8" and one 3/16" bits during the operation.  I've never broken nor heard of anyone breaking a unibit. 

 

6/03/2018 6:01 AM  #6


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

When drilling in tight areas where I can't see very good I color the the step drill at the hole size I want to stop at. It's to easy to go into the next size up.


70, ragtop 351W/416 stroker Edel Performer heads w pro flow 4, Comp roller 35-421-8. T5
 

6/03/2018 12:08 PM  #7


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

HudginJ3 wrote:

When drilling in tight areas where I can't see very good I color the the step drill at the hole size I want to stop at. It's to easy to go into the next size up.

Just about every time I use a step drill, and every time I use one for multiple same size holes, I'll mark the next larger size step so as to keep the mark visible.
 


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

6/03/2018 1:49 PM  #8


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

HudginJ3 wrote:

When drilling in tight areas where I can't see very good I color the the step drill at the hole size I want to stop at. It's to easy to go into the next size up.

  I put some tape around the top so I know how far to go.
 

 

6/03/2018 8:22 PM  #9


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

Those bits are great. I used them for years when I was still working as an electrician.

I use tape also to mark the step I want also. I did manage to break the one pictured on the right. It was my fault too for pushing too fast through a piece of 1/4 “ copper bus bar. 

The center is my favorite. Knocked the sharp edge off of 5/8 step, had to push a little harder on that step till I got it replaced.


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
 

6/04/2018 5:17 PM  #10


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

I have worn out several of those.

 

6/04/2018 6:01 PM  #11


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

Glens 1965 50 wrote:

I have worn out several of those.

Speaking of which, this thread reminded me to order some more.
 


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

6/04/2018 7:13 PM  #12


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

My sons affectionately refer to them as "hole biggeners".  Every tool box needs some.

 

6/06/2018 7:42 PM  #13


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

I bought mine at harbor freight...went through like butta


"If Someone Did it on Youtube...So Can I...Well.....Unless its Heart Surgery,Thats Kinda Hard"
 

6/07/2018 7:59 AM  #14


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

Vicfonz wrote:

I bought mine at harbor freight...went through like butta

That's good to know... I have stayed away from the HF ones because I was scared the steel would be too soft.
 

 

6/07/2018 10:31 AM  #15


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

I was skeptical too but had one sitting around...after I got that pilot hole it was quick...I did use drilling lube as well..i think I pail $19 for 3 drill bit pack..titanium

Michael H. wrote:

Vicfonz wrote:

I bought mine at harbor freight...went through like butta

That's good to know... I have stayed away from the HF ones because I was scared the steel would be too soft.
 

 


"If Someone Did it on Youtube...So Can I...Well.....Unless its Heart Surgery,Thats Kinda Hard"
 

6/07/2018 1:52 PM  #16


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

Michael H. wrote:

Vicfonz wrote:

I bought mine at harbor freight...went through like butta

That's good to know... I have stayed away from the HF ones because I was scared the steel would be too soft.
 

I have used Harbor Freight on occasion.  But only for those tools that I will not use much - like once.  I got my pitman arm puller from them and it has been used the one time I had to remove it.  Much cheaper than Snap-On.
 


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

6/09/2018 7:32 AM  #17


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

Harbor Freight quality is really pretty good.  Most of my tool purchases today are from HF, including the drill bits and the taper drills.  They last as long as the much more expensive brands at the orange box store.

 

6/10/2018 5:24 AM  #18


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

IMO, HF quality is not that good.  Basically its what you used to buy at car shows, swap meets, etc.  Typical made off shore stuff.  That being said, most everything has gone that way now.  Unless you are going to spend boku dollars on SnapOn or MAC tools there's really no reason not to buy from HF.  Even Craftsman stuff is spotty now.  Tools are just another example of how our society has transitioned from buying something for life to having a throw away mentality about just about everything.  Remember when there used to be TV repair shops?  There's no point anymore.  The boards are so small that a human can't repair them anymore, a replacement board is likely not available, and if it is its cheaper to buy a new TV than it is to diagnose and fix the old one, while waiting two weeks for the part to get there.  Even cars have gone this way.  I remember marveling at how Mercedes were built, because the cars were always expensive, but before the '00s you actually got value for that money.  Everything was designed to be either serviceable, or to essentially never wear out.  That's why its not uncommon to see older Mercedes with 200k, 300k, or more on the clock and still be on the road.  At some point though they got greedy (I blame the Chrysler merger) and decided that their marque was all people were spending that money to get, and the quality of the car didn't matter, because the first owner would just trade it in on a new one in a couple years before it started to fall apart if they just built their cars like everyone else. 

I buy plenty of stuff form HF, and I use my tools fairly hard.  I bought a set of wrenches for my garage thinking "I'll only use them occasionally, so the quality doesn't really matter".  I think I paid $15 each for a set of inch and a set of metric combo wrenches.  I've since done a set of head gaskets on my Subaru and my T5 swap in my Mustang with those wrenches, and they're still perfect.  I have on of their shapers I use almost exclusively to grind metal that I've had for probably a decade or more.  The drive belt failed, but I went online, used the number off the belt and bought 4 new belts for $20, which should be enough to last me forever.  Pretty sure that shaper cost $60 on sale.  My air angle grinder just died after about a decade, so I had to pony up another $20 for a new one. 

Yeah, all in, I lament that tools aren't built the way they used to be, but HF makes it cheap to own a ton of tools, and given what they cost, and the fact that they do last a lot longer than you'd think; I don't even get mad when one finally lets go.  Over the years I've broken plenty of Craftsman or other "quality" tools.  The lifetime replacement was a great selling point, but in the end I can buy a HF tool 3-5 times for the cost of a name brand tool, with less up front cost.  HF also has most specialty automotive tools, and its hard to argue with owning vs. renting/borrowing things like a ball joint press, etc.

 

6/10/2018 10:04 AM  #19


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

I was an ASE Master Auto Technician in the 70's-mid 80's before I had an accident which required an occupational realignment and I made my living with my tools.  I have a Snap-On taco wagon, the early mid 80's version, not the house on wheels you see today, which is still full with most of my hand tools.  My Ingersoll air tools are still strong but most of my screw driver handles have long since decomposed (?).  I have been teaching since the late 80's and no longer have access to Snap-on, MAC or Matco and wont trade with Cornwell, BUT, I have a Harbor Freight, Home Depot, and Lowes within 15 minutes of our home.  I make a weekly walk-through HF and recently saw Home Depot carrying Craftsman tools and boxes.
My HF compound radial saw is approaching 20 years old and plenty strong and I have yet to break any of my HF end wrenches and sockets unless I really get stupid and put a 3/8 drive socket on my 1/2" Ingersoll impact, but we dont do that, do we?
Yes, I know where probably 100% of HF tools come from and feel I have to weigh the rationale, but I am a retired teacher on a fixed income and have to watch my spending.  I am a fan of HF though and until the trade tariff's get sorted out, I will continue to be a shopper.

 

6/10/2018 10:16 AM  #20


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

I bought the three piece set from HF years ago, and they have been used a lot and they have held up quite well.   I liked them so much, I bought the really fat one they sell separate when I saw it on sale, but Ive not used it yet.  For the ten bucks they costed, you can't beat it.   Just sayin'.    Also, just for fyi, while I think how they are giving all their tool lines silly names, they seem to be changing their marketing strategy.  I was told the new line of pliers they sell are the same ones that come on a tool truck, without the fancy expensive brand name on them.   I have not compared them firsthand to confirm that though.  


If multiple things can go wrong, the one that will go wrong will be the one that causes the most damage.
 

6/10/2018 5:49 PM  #21


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

I just bought a Craftsman rolling lower tool cabinet at Lowes today.  I needed to clean up the garage, and though I have two huge, and filled to oveflowing, rolling boxes in my shop; I need more storage in my garage for some deep sockets, etc.  It cost $240, almost exactly what HF wanted for basically the same thing (was $20 cheaper I think, but factor in my 5% discount at Lowes and we're talking less than $8 difference). 

Lowes also sells Kobalt tools, and I have to say, I have two small boxed sets of sockets and ratchets that are Kobalt.  The bigger set does the heavy lifting in the garage at the house, and the other goes on jobs with me when I need that kind of stuff.  Both are at least 5 years old, and I've never broken a socket, or ratchet from either set despite them getting the pipe from time to time.  Not terribly expensive, not HF prices either, but a good set of middle of the road tools that have held up very well. 

I think Greg B is on to something with the name marketing too.  If you notice on Summit, for example, the Summit parts are always clearly made by someone else and just sold for less money without the premium name.  I needed a water pump for my '89 GT project, didn't want to spend $200, and didn't want a standard parts store replacement either.  I settled on a Milodon unit for about $98.  Well imagine my surprise when I open the box and the pump casting says "GMB" on it.  I noticed a GMB pump on Summit's site for less than half the Milodon price while searching for a pump.  I decide to compare them, so I bought the GMB pump too.  Damned if they weren't identical, except the Milodon pump had an anti cavitation plate welded to the impeller.  Some sheet steel and a unibit (see, we're still on topic) later and the GMB pump had that same plate, and the Milodon pump was in the box on its way back to Summit.  So, it wouldn't not surprise me in the least if HF is doing the same thing.  I have noticed they have a power tool line that looks amazing similar to Milwaukee.  I have a lot of Milwaukee stuff and I'm tempted to see if the batteries interchange.  The price on the drills is about 33% lower than the Milwaukee ones at Home Depot. 

 

6/11/2018 10:00 AM  #22


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

One of the reasons you drill a 17/32” hole especially on the 65/66 cars is this. As you add shims for caster, the cross section of the upper control arm becomes a oval going through the round hole and you need a little play for that.

As far as HF goes I think they’re no worse then most of the name brand stuff. Nobody makes their own items anymore, all contracted out off shore. You’re just paying for a name is my beliefs for the most part. Some HF stuff is good, some isn’t. On their new line of welders I have read some very good reviews


I'm not a complete idiot.....pieces are missing. Tom
 

6/11/2018 6:02 PM  #23


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

yea the tools don't last but they get the job done..i bought the pulley puller there as well...it has a couple pulls left in it lol

lowercasesteve wrote:

Michael H. wrote:

Vicfonz wrote:

I bought mine at harbor freight...went through like butta

That's good to know... I have stayed away from the HF ones because I was scared the steel would be too soft.
 

I have used Harbor Freight on occasion.  But only for those tools that I will not use much - like once.  I got my pitman arm puller from them and it has been used the one time I had to remove it.  Much cheaper than Snap-On.
 

 


"If Someone Did it on Youtube...So Can I...Well.....Unless its Heart Surgery,Thats Kinda Hard"
 

6/11/2018 6:04 PM  #24


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

when I was doing the Granada swap on my other mustang..i bought everything from there..from tube bender to brake bleeder..everything did work great

66 coupe wrote:

Harbor Freight quality is really pretty good.  Most of my tool purchases today are from HF, including the drill bits and the taper drills.  They last as long as the much more expensive brands at the orange box store.

 


"If Someone Did it on Youtube...So Can I...Well.....Unless its Heart Surgery,Thats Kinda Hard"
 

6/11/2018 9:17 PM  #25


Re: Shelby Drop Drill bit. This is best tool for the job.

I am ever-so-slowly changing over to these. Work great in drill press or cordless.

 

Board footera


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