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6/10/2018 3:46 PM  #1


true temp reading on gauge

Hi , I worked on a digital thermo gauge to be sure about reading on old gauge ,
Today 10.30 am with 28 celsius ( 82 F)  take a ride with ac on at full cold .
Also if was mild outside temp , the water rise quickly .
When the temp gauge is at the half  means 75 celsius  ( 167 f )
when temp is at 3/4 means 95 celsius ( 203 f ) 
A little more after 3/4  means 100 /110 c   (212 /220 f ) 
on the red line means  120c   ( 248 f )  

Now i am riding most of times with gauge on 3/4 that means around water boiling point , more or less . 
But this moring wasn't so hot like next  august  
For sure i will need to change radiator for a bigger one 
 

 

6/11/2018 10:58 AM  #2


Re: true temp reading on gauge

1970 radiator  Mustang Steve mod. is the ticket.


Mustang Steve Bash in Gruene, Texas September29-30, 2023
 

6/11/2018 1:00 PM  #3


Re: true temp reading on gauge

What thermostat is in it?

I run a 180 in these older cars, and set my fan turn on temp to 195.  In 100+ degree heat it sits at maybe 205-210.

I would not want to see it running over 200, but 200 is okay.  Water boils at 212, but that is without pressure.  A standard radiator cap adds maybe 12-16psi of system pressure, so it raises the boiling point of water to more like 260-265, assuming a 50/50 water/antifreeze mix.  More water lowers the boiling point, more antifreeze raises it, but antifreeze is not a good of a coolant as water. 

 

6/11/2018 2:10 PM  #4


Re: true temp reading on gauge

TKOPerformance wrote:

What thermostat is in it?

I run a 180 in these older cars, and set my fan turn on temp to 195.  In 100+ degree heat it sits at maybe 205-210.

I would not want to see it running over 200, but 200 is okay.  Water boils at 212, but that is without pressure.  A standard radiator cap adds maybe 12-16psi of system pressure, so it raises the boiling point of water to more like 260-265, assuming a 50/50 water/antifreeze mix.  More water lowers the boiling point, more antifreeze raises it, but antifreeze is not a good of a coolant as water. 

Hello tko ,
Now i got 195 stant normal flow thermostat .
about fan i have add one and make it switched but  i see that is necessarly keep it on all the time if i want to use ac to keep the system work  .  if not i will see the red line in minutes.
Outside temp was really mild , but if i think on 100 f of august i think will be hard not overheating.
This post follow my old one about high temp an ac kit related issue . 
i don't know if others had same problems but i hope this will help someone to make a good evaluation on aftermarket kit .
what i am trying to say that is not enough buy an ac kit , but is necessary improve radiator and put an eye on a different belt ride, except v belt. (  " if i knew it before " is my new nick name )
probably the first gen mustang are more touchy due to little radiator. 

     Thread Starter
 

6/11/2018 2:25 PM  #5


Re: true temp reading on gauge

I would install the 180 t-stat and see how it runs.  These old cars need some lead in terms of temperature.  If you want it to run at 195; you can't use a 195 t-stat, because by the time it opens the engine is already past 195 degrees.

Also, if the t-stat doesn't have one, drill a 1/8" (0.125") hole in the flat area in the water flow path, and orient it at the top when installing the t-stat.  This is a bleed hole that will help get any air out of the system and keep it out.  Some t-stats already have one, or have a check ball that does the same thing. 

Don't worry about "if I knew it before".  If you knew it before you would never have learned anything.  Mistakes and learning are all part of this hobby. 

 

6/11/2018 6:18 PM  #6


Re: true temp reading on gauge

TKOPerformance wrote:

I would install the 180 t-stat and see how it runs.  These old cars need some lead in terms of temperature.  If you want it to run at 195; you can't use a 195 t-stat, because by the time it opens the engine is already past 195 degrees.

Also, if the t-stat doesn't have one, drill a 1/8" (0.125") hole in the flat area in the water flow path, and orient it at the top when installing the t-stat.  This is a bleed hole that will help get any air out of the system and keep it out.  Some t-stats already have one, or have a check ball that does the same thing. 

Don't worry about "if I knew it before".  If you knew it before you would never have learned anything.  Mistakes and learning are all part of this hobby. 

x2 on that T-Stat.
 


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

Board footera


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