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Hi , I worked on a digital thermo gauge to be sure about reading on old gauge ,
Today 10.30 am with 28 celsius ( 82 F) take a ride with ac on at full cold .
Also if was mild outside temp , the water rise quickly .
When the temp gauge is at the half means 75 celsius ( 167 f )
when temp is at 3/4 means 95 celsius ( 203 f )
A little more after 3/4 means 100 /110 c (212 /220 f )
on the red line means 120c ( 248 f )
Now i am riding most of times with gauge on 3/4 that means around water boiling point , more or less .
But this moring wasn't so hot like next august
For sure i will need to change radiator for a bigger one
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1970 radiator Mustang Steve mod. is the ticket.
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What thermostat is in it?
I run a 180 in these older cars, and set my fan turn on temp to 195. In 100+ degree heat it sits at maybe 205-210.
I would not want to see it running over 200, but 200 is okay. Water boils at 212, but that is without pressure. A standard radiator cap adds maybe 12-16psi of system pressure, so it raises the boiling point of water to more like 260-265, assuming a 50/50 water/antifreeze mix. More water lowers the boiling point, more antifreeze raises it, but antifreeze is not a good of a coolant as water.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
What thermostat is in it?
I run a 180 in these older cars, and set my fan turn on temp to 195. In 100+ degree heat it sits at maybe 205-210.
I would not want to see it running over 200, but 200 is okay. Water boils at 212, but that is without pressure. A standard radiator cap adds maybe 12-16psi of system pressure, so it raises the boiling point of water to more like 260-265, assuming a 50/50 water/antifreeze mix. More water lowers the boiling point, more antifreeze raises it, but antifreeze is not a good of a coolant as water.
Hello tko ,
Now i got 195 stant normal flow thermostat .
about fan i have add one and make it switched but i see that is necessarly keep it on all the time if i want to use ac to keep the system work . if not i will see the red line in minutes.
Outside temp was really mild , but if i think on 100 f of august i think will be hard not overheating.
This post follow my old one about high temp an ac kit related issue .
i don't know if others had same problems but i hope this will help someone to make a good evaluation on aftermarket kit .
what i am trying to say that is not enough buy an ac kit , but is necessary improve radiator and put an eye on a different belt ride, except v belt. ( " if i knew it before " is my new nick name )
probably the first gen mustang are more touchy due to little radiator.
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I would install the 180 t-stat and see how it runs. These old cars need some lead in terms of temperature. If you want it to run at 195; you can't use a 195 t-stat, because by the time it opens the engine is already past 195 degrees.
Also, if the t-stat doesn't have one, drill a 1/8" (0.125") hole in the flat area in the water flow path, and orient it at the top when installing the t-stat. This is a bleed hole that will help get any air out of the system and keep it out. Some t-stats already have one, or have a check ball that does the same thing.
Don't worry about "if I knew it before". If you knew it before you would never have learned anything. Mistakes and learning are all part of this hobby.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
I would install the 180 t-stat and see how it runs. These old cars need some lead in terms of temperature. If you want it to run at 195; you can't use a 195 t-stat, because by the time it opens the engine is already past 195 degrees.
Also, if the t-stat doesn't have one, drill a 1/8" (0.125") hole in the flat area in the water flow path, and orient it at the top when installing the t-stat. This is a bleed hole that will help get any air out of the system and keep it out. Some t-stats already have one, or have a check ball that does the same thing.
Don't worry about "if I knew it before". If you knew it before you would never have learned anything. Mistakes and learning are all part of this hobby.
x2 on that T-Stat.
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