Since we are throwing out mig welding tips;  if you need to weld up something fairly thick, say 1/4" and you only have a small mig welder, heat up the metal first with a blowtorch.   I dont recommend this for everything, but if you are in a situation where you have to weld a thicker metal to a thinner metal, say like those big thick brackets on Craftsman mower decks that like to break, it also works really well to heat on the thicker piece first.    

rpm wrote:

I've done my share of bird crap beads Mike. I learned a trick with crappy welds, go over the ugly beads with a tig using only the torch, and two hands to steady it. Works on mig and tig. Cheater!

They call that "buzzing-the-weld"  Sure flattens out the lumpy stuff.
 

Tough crowd eh?  I hadn't tig welded in about 25 years when I welded this. I borrowed a brother's tig as I had sold my last one, and was shaking so bad I thought I had Parkinson's. I should've used a larger filler rod and was po'd at the outcome, but was convinced by others it was fine. Before I got old and lost some vision I used to be able to lay down a nice bead. Grinder...c'mon Sally.

In today's world diagnostics are used so that the parts can be changed.
 My 2016 edge recently had a module behind the radio replaced, don'y know of any mechanic that could have fixed it!

The codes are just another tool.  Like any other diagnostic tool you must know what you're looking at and what the information it gives you means.  Guys that change parts based on codes are still just parts changers.  Case in point, my mom had a CEL in one of her Subarus.  The dealership said it was set by two sensors.  They said her current warranty didn't cover it, but it was about to expire, and if she purchased the extended warranty it would cover it.  Their advice was to wait, buy the extended warranty, and have the sensors both replaced.  Without so much as looking at the car my response was "The odds that two sensors both failed simultaneously is about a billion to one.  My guess is the two circuits share a common ground and there's an issue with the ground."  She followed the dealership's advice.  Under extended warranty they replaced the sensors, which DID NOT fix the CEL.  What did it turn out to be?  Bad ground.  In the end its the difference between understanding the way electrical systems work and reading letters and numbers off a scan tool.  Working with electrical systems has always been a part of being a mechanic.  In the old days the systems were simple, but still often misunderstood.  Today understanding electrical is a prerequisite to working on anything built from the mid '80s onward.  Those first EFI systems seemed intimidating; they're horse and buggy compared to the stuff that's in cars now.  Anyone calling themself a mechanic needs to be well versed in electrical troubleshooting now more than ever, and its not going to be less important as time goes on that's for sure. 

The plate is still available from Ford.  Here's a link:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Drivetrain/Bellhousings-Related/Bellhousing-Spacer-Plate-1984-1993-Mustang-AOD.axd

Inspection cover is down at the bottom as well.  I would avoid the cheaper reproductions; you definitely get what you pay for with these. 

No kidding John, thanks.

It's not that I don't have the plate, it's here ready to go in. Not having the plate would almost be excusable for missing it.

My 390/C6 doesn't have a plate either. Probably for the same reason. The PO did put the inspection cover on though.

Hmm...I do believe I found the culprit in my thrust damage issue. Well, I'm actually the culprit, but I found the reason I had thrust damage to the crank, bearings and tranny pump. The new aftermarket, SFI rated, better than Ford flexplate, that I installed circa 2001,  stands off the rear block mating area .175" more than the oem Ford unit. I talked to the yahoo who built the motor, and he doesn't remember nuttin. Btw, I was that yahoo. Education is not free. Just how much did that new flexplate cost anyway? I'm still counting. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Who said autos were the easy way out?

Closure after 6 years!

Coming in late, butt*** This is the gospel I've always followed when checking converter clearance. My last vehicle I had to get spacers made because there was excessive gap.

https://www.circledspecialties.com/pages/installation-tips?srsltid=AfmBOooIpOxNZsPuxGqrAN1SRtum6362XuHFcbe7o8VREq-wmfBZHG6y

Really good illustration.

Bullet Bob wrote:

rpm wrote:

This Mach 1 came from San Jose with an auto, and I want to keep it bone stock

Really?  You mean with that "bone stock" 393 stroker?  And the "Bone Stock" beautiful home-brew front suspension?  And uh, that that "bone stock" roll cage?   Okay, I get it, Bob.  Bone stock like I did the Heap...it came with an auto-box also.

BB

 
It was Bullet’s quote that I remembered.

Wasn’t sure who said it though, so I looked for “bone stock.”

What did I have for dinner last night? 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️😂