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I've always believed a cool running engine keeps the metals harder for better compression, less bearing clearance and thicker oils. So I have a 180* thermostat. (no ac) Which was still kinda cool with the original 2 core 24 x 16 radiator. Now 3 core aluminum 24 x 16 and running even cooler. Temp gauge doesn't move. After driving and turned off, I place a meat thermometer between the head and the manifold, 180*. So I figured I'd get a higher, maybe 200-220* (winter coming) thermostat. Yet reluctant because I already have helicoils in my vintage torker 289 manifold. Then my next thought was, wouldn't it look cool to take the flex fan off!? People would freak out asking me, where's your fan? How do you keep it cool? I wonder how hot it would get without a fan, while running a 3 core aluminum radiator and 180* thermostat?
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hello D.driver ,
Times ago i post the result of digital temp sender vs the old gauge reading , trying to understand which was the really temp . search it and refer about temp
I had some overheating issue caused by ac add and solved later with new wide alu radiator. Now temp is perfect but for sure i will need to change may thermostat in winter because is too low (160 f ).
The elicoil are not a problem also if you broke it you can always put a new one . I know you prefer leave as is , but if you need to work on it take it easy and change your thermostat for a winter one.
I dont know which will be the end after you decide to remove the fan , but i think it could be an option from summer to winter .
Just to remember at 1/4 of gauge reading you are already at 167 f ( and is not so cold)
when the temp start rise from gauge you are at 140 f
You can also put something in front of radiator ( like plexiglass ) and let the radiator recive less air
hope it helps
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Without a fan it will 100% for sure overheat in all but maybe the dead of winter, and even then you'd have to be moving to keep it cool.
You actually want to run an engine as hot as possible without overheating it. Power is best when the fuel is hottest, because it atomizes better and therefore more of the fuel reacts with oxygen and burns. Having the chamber and cylinder hotter helps with this. It also improves efficiency (better fuel mileage and reduced emissions).
The other reason you want it hot is that the hotter it is the less wear occurs. Most vehicles now use a 195+ degree thermostat, and often don't turn the fan on until well past 200 degrees. They have better controls and concerns over overheating are largely a thing of the past, so they do this for longevity and also improved emissions (see efficiency improvement in the preceding).
In practice these older cars are a lot harder to keep properly cooled, especially in today's traffic. I run a 180 t-stat and set my fan to come on at 195, and that's where she stays unless it gets unGodly hot out then I could see 205-210. That I've found is the best compromise between protection from overheating and reduction of wear/improvement in efficiency.
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I guess my cooling system is super efficient. My 331 with a standard water pump, custom shroud, mechanical fan on a Champion 24 inch three tube rad and 180 "T" stat never goes over 190 regardless of of OAT with cold air on full blast.
On days like today we get temps here of 87 f and 80% rh even hotter and more humid in mid July.
My under hood temps are also much lower after removal of the hydraulic P/S pump and associated hardware.
I think a lot of heating issues are related to original engines that are clogged with rust and goopy old antifreeze.
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Test that NO FAN theory and let us know how it works out!!!
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Having gone through a bunch of overheating problems in the last few years with my relatively stock 67 289, I feel qualified to offer my opinion. My setup has evolved into this: a 20" wide, Champion 2 row aluminum radiator with a slightly modified OEM type shroud, 17" 6 blade, fixed blade fan, thermal clutch that is supposed to run at 35% when cool and 85% when underhood temp is over 175 degrees, an alumimun high flow waterpump from Jeggs, supposed to flow 30% more at idle, and a OEM Motorcraft 192 degree thermostat. Since putting all this in place I have had zero issues with overheating. The engine warms up to an indicated 190 degrees and stays there no mater what. I've been caught in horrible traffic in 95 degree weather for over an hour at a time with no increase at all in temp. I've also noticed my oil pressure at 650 rpm idle stays right at 25 lbs now wher it used to dip a bit below that when it was running less consistantly. The oil stays noticably cleaner now and my gas milage has been staying right at 16 mpg all summer. That's about 2 mpg better than it was. The coolest weather I've driven in was maybe 45 degrees, and the guage stayed the same 190 degrees. I've also noticed there seems to be way less heat soak than there was before. Not sure if it's from the better circulation from the waterpump, or better airflow from the fixed blade fan, because that fan does move a lot of air, way more than it ever did with flex fans and/or electric fans. Very pleased with the way it worked this summer!
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Thanks for all your help. This is one reason I love this site so much! I'm leaving the fan on!
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UNLESS......................you wanna join the "electric-coolant-fan-club" and go all electric!
That way....you can run with your fan off....and see(with an indicator light or such) when it comes on!!
Surprising how much of the time it does NOT run!!
Jus say'in!
6s6
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Oh so many benefits to going electric. One of the top three mods I've done to my car (5 speed swap, headlight relays, electric fan; in that order I think).
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |