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  •  » Master Cylinder Shelf Life

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    9/13/2018 5:35 AM  #1

    Chaplin
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    Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    I’m finally getting ready to put fluid in the master, check the system for leaks and bleed my brakes.  As I was looking at everything, it occurred to me that I’ve had the master cylinder sitting on the shelf an embarrassingly long time...like at least 3 years. I got the master from MS with the power brake conversion kit.  Should I throw it on and not worry about it or, given how long it’s been sitting dry, would I be better served getting a new one?

    Thoughts?

     

    9/13/2018 8:35 AM  #2

    TKOPerformance
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    From: Newark, DE
    Registered: 12/15/2014
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    Where has it been sitting?  I'd certainly be less worried if it was in a temperature and humidity controlled environment than just out in the unconditioned garage. 

    On the other hand. three years seems like a long time, but I recently bought a 30 year old combination valve that was NOS.  I opened it up to replace all the seals as a preventative, but honestly am sure I could have just run it as it was because it all looked brand new inside and out.  It was just in a Ford box.  The box did look really good though, certainly not its age, so I'd say it was never exposed to really hot or humid conditions. but it was still at least 30 years old, and possibly older (E0 part number prefix, so anywhere form '80 onwards until they stopped making them, no way to know for sure). 

     

    9/13/2018 11:37 AM  #3

    Chaplin
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    It’s been in a moderately temperature controlled (heated in the winter but no AC in the summer) insulated garage. I’d say the temps stay between 50 and 82 degrees year round.  Dry as a bone in the winter but the air can get humid in the summer.

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    9/13/2018 1:59 PM  #4

    Novi Rick
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    I had a SSBC master cylinder (mounted but not filled) sitting around until I got the car closer to road ready after long restoration.  Not in a climate controlled environment.  Could not get it bled.  Had a hot rod shop try to bleed with the same results so it wasn't something I did wrong. Turns out the seals went bad and I had to buy another one.  Maybe it was defective from the beginning but I will never know. No problems with the replacement.  Your results may vary!

     

    9/13/2018 3:41 PM  #5

    TKOPerformance
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    After only three years, under those conditions, I'd give it a shot at least.  If it works you save the cost of a replacement.  If it doesn't you know you didn't throw out a good master cylinder for nothing. 

     

    9/14/2018 10:56 AM  #6

    Chaplin
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    I guess I’ll bench bleed it and throw it in.  I’m sure it will be fine...for a while... I just hope its life isn’t prematurely shortened. I don’t want to replace the master again next year!

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    11/05/2018 9:31 AM  #7

    Chaplin
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    Well, I bench bled the master this weekend and let it sit for 48 hours, checked it again and all seemed good so I threw it in the car and set about bleeding the system.  All went well and I had a nice firm pedal in no time at all so...so far so good.

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    11/05/2018 7:38 PM  #8

    6sally6
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    From: Surfside Beach,SC
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    What type MC was it?.........74 Maverick?!!  Front disc/rear drum....non  power
    6s6

    Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
     

    11/05/2018 8:05 PM  #9

    Chaplin
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    It’s the master that comes with MS 4-wheel power disc conversion set up.  I’m actually not sure what it’s spec’d for... for some reason that isn’t entirely clear to me, I want to say Ford Ranger, but I have no idea if that’s right. Perhaps MS will chime in and correct me.

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    12/16/2018 11:56 AM  #10

    Chaplin
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    Well, perhaps I spoke too soon about all going well. There doesn’t appear to any issues with the MC, but I apparently have a very small leak around the banjo bolt on the driver’s side caliper. I saw a small amount of fluid around it the other day, dried it up and snugged down the bolt a little more and thought would take care of it, but was just out in the garage and noticed that there is still a very small leak around the banjo bolt.

    I’ve tightened the bolt about as much as I feel comfortable, so I guess I’ll take out banjo bolt and try a different set of copper washers and see if that solves the problem.

    If it doesn’t, how do you tell whether you’ve got a problem with the caliper itself or the brake hose?

    I’ve got Cobra calipers and Russel braided stainless brake hoses.

    Last edited by Chaplin (12/16/2018 7:33 PM)

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    12/16/2018 2:47 PM  #11

    Bentworker
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    There was a trick I saw done about a decade ago.  A guy from a transformer leak repair service showed up to work on a welded corner of an energized transformer leaking mineral oil.  He would check his work by cleaning the area, then spraying aerosol foot powder (talc) over it.  The powder would quickly dry white, and any area that was still weeping would contrast grey.  It was pretty slick, a way to easily detect if a liquid was leaking.  I bet replacing the crush washers takes care of the leak, or maybe there is a small defect in the sealing surface on the caliper, hose or bolt.  If for some reason the hose is bad take a look at Crown hoses out of California.  I've used their custom hoses on a couple of my projects with good results.  

     

    12/16/2018 6:03 PM  #12

    Grabber Blu
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    Just my experience, I never had good luck with the new smooth crush washers.  I always end up using the used oem ribbed ones and they never leak for me

     

    12/17/2018 6:39 AM  #13

    TKOPerformance
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    From: Newark, DE
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    Re: Master Cylinder Shelf Life

    I think a lot of the copper washers sold with reman and aftermarket calipers have not been properly annealed.  A copper washer should be soft; that's how they conform and seal.  If they are hard they don't do that.  You can take them and heat them up with a propane torch and then let them slowly cool in the air.  That will render them dead soft.  We used this trick on everything from heavy equipment to airplanes and it never failed to work, even with copper washers that were decades old. 

     

     

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