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Hello Mustangers!
Help!
1.) I was really hoping the bug screen would raise the operating temp a little. Can't tell. Decided to test my temp sending switch by testing a couple spare temp sending switches. I grounded their treads and used a small torch to heat it. One goes full, the other, nothing. I can ground the guage wire and the stock guage goes full. Other than that I can't tell if sending switch working right? It was new with this rebuild. I don't know how the innards work. Wonder if putting it in boiling water connected to the guage wire? Does any one know?
2.) In the meantime! I noticed the stock oil pressure gauge went Almost to Nothing on a long left hand curve at about 55 mph. Is this normal? I don't remember ever seeing this! I slowed down, held the brake and continued giving it gas. I didn't hear and rattling or knocking. Oil pressure got better after I straightened out, but it's still worrisome to me. I tried to check my connections on the oil sending switch but the nut turned the shaft. It was new with this rebuild as well. Does this mean the oil sending unit is bad? Not sure how the innards work? (I am about 1/2 quart low on oil.)
Thanks for all your help~!
Last edited by daily driver (9/23/2018 5:19 PM)
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I can't help with the oil gauge mystery I've never heard of such a thing happening but I can help with the temp thing. Take the sending unit out of the car and put it in a container of water. Use a container that can be heated. Put a digital thermometer in the water. These can be bought at Wally World from the kitchen supply section. Put the sending unit in the container and reconnect it to the gauge. Also run a ground wire to the car body or negative post on the battery and clip it to the threads on the sender. Then heat the water and compare the gauge reading to the thermometer reading. I've used this method for years working with boilers and chillers. Its fool proof.
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Oil pressure drop is probably real. My 57 Fairlane used to turn on the low-oil-pressure light on hard braking if the oil level was a little low. After stopping for a couple of seconds the light would go out. Topping off the oil would make this problem go away.
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The stock temperature sending units should read about 75 ohms when at room temperature, about 10 ohms when hot, somewhere in between for normal engine temperature (around the boiling point of water in open air).
Have you changed your oil pan or dipstick? If you have you may have less oil in the engine that you think you do. If you've changed the dipstick put in 4 quarts of oil and make sure that the oil level and the "full" mark match. If you've changed the pan, did you also change the pickup and ensure that it's the correct distance from the bottom of the pan? On the first fill did you also add the amount of oil matching the pan capacity, then check the dipstick to confirm that the oil level shows correctly on the dipstick?
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I believe I have a 66 block/timing chain cover with a 68 oil pan and dipstick. Not that that should matter with a 289. Because that last four to five quarts is a rather touchy. I was told I might have got an air pocket in the pickup tube around that long curve. But today the gauge is dead center for 30 minutes at 65mph.
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Thanks also for the tip on the temperature sending switch!
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