I have not gotten the crossmember built yet, so the engine and tranny may not be at the correct angle.  Once I get the crossmember in, then I can start constructing the tunnel hump to fit.

I finally bought a digital level, accurate to 0.1 degree.  The old angle-finder dial was not very accurate. 

Tomorrow is another day...

The progressive springs were installed right before the Illinois BASH.  They settled 3/4" on the trip !!!  I was running almost 3/8" toe out by the time I got home.

Alan wrote:

Hey MS, you might check out what can happen when you put a 427 in an old Mustang
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GT-/271234953030?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&forcev4exp=true#v4-41
 

 Thanks for that, Alan...  His 427 was woefully underpowered, so apparently he could not avoid the impending doom fast enough.  Mine will have about 60-70 more HP.

Of course, I have seen several 6-cylinder Mustangs get rolled as well.

All that said, and NOW I have to get the cut-off wheel out YET AGAIN.  I will have to cut more of the tranny hump out of the car to get the tranny in there at the right angle.  I have to go all the way to where the tranny hump intesects the firewall.  I thought I was through with the destruction phase...

I didn't have to go all the way to the firewall but did roll the front edge up to clear a few of the appendages on the transmission.  A few of those can be safely cut off the transmission.  Mine has been welded up since this picture but it shows how far forward I had to go.  A little harder to see is the added width.  And yes - I still need to cut the hole for the shifter.

If you need a pic from underneath let me know and I'll take one and post it today before I head down under. 

My final reading from centerline to top of tunnel directly above the output shaft was 3.25".  That was what gave me 3 degrees down when using the stock later-style 66 mounts.

Another pic from underneath.

with the tunnel support out of the car I bolted in the crossmember tight to preserve angles and flange width.  I think added about 1-3/4 to each side (just bent up flat stock to match) and cut the middle section on top.  You can kind of see the mods in this pic.  It got pretty high so I trimmed the upper flanges off.  You probably won't have to do that with the 67 support.  I then raised the mount with a temp spacer about 7/8" thick to account for the difference between the toploader flange and the TKO flange.  The TKO flange is "higher" or closer to the shaft centerline than the toploader - hence the spacer.  Not sure how the TKO crossmembers will work with what you are doing as they may drop the back end down too far.  Try a stock crossmember - I think you might be surprised how well it works.

Heavily insulated garage with 24,000 BTU window unit mounted in the wall and 2 fans that go wherever I go.

It was 101 degrees today but 76 in the shop.  My new digital level gives the temperature for a few seconds when it is first turned on.

Today I got the top of the hump cut off sufficiently to get the TKO up to the angle I want it, which is 3 degrees down as measured against the rocker panels.  I have it all mocked up in position and now I have to modify the floor support crossmember and build a new hump. 

I determined the curved area where the new front floor curves up to the hump on the new floor panels will make a perfectly formed top for the hump if I sacrifice a couple of floorpans ($56 total) and cut that area off the floors, invert it and make a seam down the middle to join them.  I will have to figure out if that is the best way to go or not.  First I have to get that floor crossmember built and a new under-tranny crossmember built.