Bullet Bob wrote:

I don't know anything about CSRP but the K-H brakes and brackets such as were used on the early Mustangs are an easy swap, not too expensive, and work well.

I helped my Father-in-law install a CSRP Kelsey Hayes disk brake kit on his '66 Mustang, and I was very impressed with it.  I would assume the kit for a '65 Falcon would be very similar if not identical.

The CSRP are repros of the factory KH disc brakes. I have no personal experience with them but they get good reviews and their kits are very complete, even come with grease. So no worries with them IMO. For a motor, I'm quite fond of the GT40  and especially the GT40P from Explorers. They are cheap and will easily go 300K miles. I put a GT40P with a Mustang 5.0 cam. It was really cheap and runs super. Here's my GT40P swap if you're curious what's involved

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1012953-got-my-gt40p-up-running-my-66-a.html

I installed CRSP brakes on my 66 Mustang several years ago and they work great. 

So I’ve come across a guy parting out a 64 Falcon sprint with a 8” rear and asking $250 but I’ve gotta remove it. Hes got pics of the car online but doesn’t show the rear and says he won’t send photos. Did say I could come check it out though.


And another guy selling a 9” rear that came out of a 65 Falcon that’s 50.5” from backing plate to backing plate..asking $300.


Thoughts?

Bullet Bob wrote:

Unless you are planning on mega HP or are going racing, I'd say grab the 8" and forget the 9".

BB

Thanks Bullet

Whats he want for the 64 Sprint?!....Might get it and swap all the pieces you need into your Falcon!!
Local?
6sally6

TarheelFalcon wrote:

Now what about the frame/body as far as sturdiness? I see a lot of these front suspension kits have welded in frame pieces when going to v8.

You need a set of subframe connectors.  All these cars need them.  Then I'd say add the export brace and Monte Carlo bar and that'll really stiffen up the car considerably.  This will allow your suspension to work properly, instead of putting its energy into twisting the chassis.  It will also force the engine to use its torque to properl the car instead of twisting the chassis. 

On the rear, I vote 8" too.  The 9" is great for high power, but honestly for that they need to be one of the better 9"s, which most of the stock rears you find aren't.  In stock form, without the rare and expensive nodular iron case a 9" is only marginally stronger than an 8".  Failures in these rears are more often than not the case in the area of the pocket bearing (because the pinion bearings are too close together).  The ring gear's size makes the 9" theoretically stronger, but in practice other parts will break long before that extra 1" of ring gear diameter helps.  I seem to remember reading that they actually used the same axles in 8" and 9" rears, and I think on the years in question the axle bearings are the same size too.  Literally not much difference, and certainly not worth any premium or hassle in terms of installation. 

TarheelFalcon wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

Whats he want for the 64 Sprint?!....Might get it and swap all the pieces you need into your Falcon!!
Local?
6sally6

He said he isn’t selling the car..just parting out. Going to ride up in the morning and check it out..bout a 40minute drive. He did mention he has the 5 lug front suspension also. How hard would all of that be to take out without special tools? I asked him how he wanted it supported once I took the suspension and rear end out and he hasn’t replied. If he’s parting it can I just drop the body on the ground or will it need to sit on jacks?

You got a cuttin' torch?  Take it.  Couple of stumps or milk crates?  Take them.  Cherry picker to lift the car?  Thak that, or at least a floor jack.  And get a friend or two to go along to help.
Nip the front springs and grab the upper control arms and spindles, you're gonna want new springs anyway.   May need to take the lower CA's also just for convenience and replace them when you do your car. 
Blow off the rear U-bolts (use care, don't hurt the axle tube) and take the rear end out the side or blow off the rear shackles and slide it out the rear.  Be careful with that torch around  the gas tank...PLEASE. Leave the springs, you're gonna buy new ones anyway and getting those rusty old front spring bolts out is a PIA and dangerous under an vehicle with questionable support.  Also get the spring plates that mount the shocks.
Don't worry about brake lines or hoses,  parking brake cables, etc, you ain't gonna use that old junk anyway.
Easiest way would  be to just flip it up on it's side but that might not be accetable.

Good luck, hope this guy isn't a total flake.

BB
 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (10/19/2018 6:40 AM)

Are you sure it’s a 8”? Not to question your intelligence, but more to satisfy my thought process, I read… 

TarheelFalcon wrote:

he did remove the gears (would I want to upgrade anyway)?

 And my head registered gears coming out the back, not a center chunk out the front.

You should shop around for a center chunk to go back in that rearend, you might be surprised at the cost. Upgrading gears when you already have a chunk will be cheaper. There is a complete 8" rearend for a 67-70 Mustang on craigslist for Houston for $200. For my car several years ago, I paid $300 for a 9” housing for the 67-70 Mustangs and $300 for a used center chunk with 3.50 gears and a traction lock unit.  If there are coil over shocks on the back, sounds like the leaves were weak and sagging. Agree with Bullet Bob about new leaf springs, coil springs, and shocks. For the front stuff, have a small wire brush and be looking for the casting numbers to make they are what he says they are. Call it a “trust but verfiy” to cover yourself.

I would be leery of someone dropping a parts car off in my driveway and coming back to get it later. I would want to hold off on paying the last hundred till he came back, but that's just me. Good luck.

I'd rather buy 1960's original Henry metal gears that taking a chance on the new stuff, which many complain about. I've bought a handful of gears from "the-gear-works" on ebay, and will again if needed. The owner Paul, is one of the good guys, imo.

The downside to used gear from the '60s at this point in time is that you have no idea how many miles are on them.  Its could be 50k, 100k, 200k, 500k, who knows.  You also don't know how hey were used.  Gears like any other metal will fatigue over time, and eventually fail.  This situation is compounded by people not having changed the gear oil regularly.  Gears have a surface hardening treatment that will eventually be literally cooked right out of them.  Transmissions also suffer from this, and its why some years ago I stopped working on older 4 speeds because I could not produce reliable high performance transmissions from 40-50 year old parts.  Gear failures became increasingly common, and after talking to a couple guys who know more than I do we finally traced the root cause back to the gears just being used up.  They look fine, but there's microscopic damage that leads to failure in short order.  We were all wondering what to do, because there were no new parts for those transmissions at the time.  Finally some savvy companies stepped in and started making gears again and the situation has resolved itself.  Though in the meantime the aftermarket and production 5 and 6 speed transmissions got so good most guys just started swapping up to an OD instead of running the old 4 speeds in anything other than a restoration. 

Rear gears are the same deal.  Having experienced my fair share of rear end failures I rebuild anything used that goes in any vehicle I drive.  The bearings most likely should be replaced anyway.  By the time you're that far into it the gears are already out.  If the gears fail you end up with damage to other parts and in the end it winds up as false economy.

All that being said, over the years I've tried gears from a variety of sources.  The bargain bin ones are made in China junk from my experience.  They don't pattern well, and make noise in operation.  Even the big names have no guarantee.  I hit upon Yukon gears almost 20 years ago, and have stuck with them, and always been happy.  Recently I rebuilt the rear for my '89 GT project.  I opted for a set of Ford Racing gears, which were the standard for 5.0s for decades.  The yoke would not go on the pinion splines without extreme force, making setting up the gears impossible.  I checked the stock gears and the yoke was just slightly tighter than a slip fit.  I checked both the used yoke and the brand new OEM yoke I was using and both fit the same.  I finally bought a set of Yukon gears and the yoke fit like it did on the stock gears.  Installation was a breeze and setup went smoothly.  Suffice to say I learned my lesson. 

8.  5.0 from efi era is preferable if you plan on driving a lot.  Any s/b (289-302-5.0) that will clean up at .030 or less is fine for a puddle jumper.  5.0 roller cam blocks may require changing harmonic balancer, flywheel, front pulleys, adding  a fuel pump eccentric, changing distributor drive gear, changing timing chain, different timing chain cover.  Swap articles rarely cover all "gotchas".
9.  Stepping up to larger aluminum radiators seems to be where its at these days, but a standard 3 row copper radiator will adequately handle cooling duties on properly built motors.
10.  Avoid installing extra large tires and rims.  They bring with them a basket full of handling and clearance issues.
Best
Al