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7/12/2013 6:35 PM  #1


Auto Meter gauge problems

I have an Auto Meter UltaLite model 4361  2 1/16 inch electric fuel pressure gauge that I can't figure out. I have a new airtex in line electric fuel pump that should put out 5 to 9 psi.The pressure gauge reads all over the place.Some times it will not read at all,  sometimes it reads 3 to 4 psi and some times it reads 7 to 8 psi. This is a used gauge and sending unit with a new wire harness. I have a good ground and good connection on the power supply to the unit. What is the problem, could I have a bad gauge or sending unit ?  
 

Last edited by Bob 1955 (7/12/2013 6:38 PM)

 

7/12/2013 7:40 PM  #2


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

Is it possible that it reads less pressure when the carburetor is taking on more fuel and more pressure when the carb's needle/seat valves are shut?

Does the engine run erratically?  Why do you need a gauge?  Just something else to worry about?


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

7/12/2013 8:02 PM  #3


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

Hi Steve, I just like the idea of a gauge. I've had problems with electric fuel pumps in the past and 1 fast look at the gauge tells me I have fuel pressure I don't have fuel pump problems. eingine runs fine all the time,I'm not haveing any problems in that area.1 thing I forgot to mention is that a lot of times the gauge will read 0. A couple of times when the gauge was reading 0, I turn off and restarted the engine, the gauge will then have 3 psi. I tried to do the same thing with the on off switch on the fuel pump but that made no difference. I also put some die electric grease on the wire harness plugs on both the sending unit and the gauge end,but that shouldn't make it work funny.

Last edited by Bob 1955 (7/12/2013 8:02 PM)

     Thread Starter
 

7/12/2013 8:56 PM  #4


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

Does it need 12 volts to it? If so where is it plugged in. I have had trouble with things plugged in the fuse block in my car.


67 Coupe, 5.0 EEC IV Fuel injected. T5, 3:70 rear
 

7/12/2013 9:23 PM  #5


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

 
 
I really don't know for sure if the gauge is hooked up to an actual 12 volt wire. I have a couple of wires under the dash that I found and have other things hooked up to it also. I know that the positive wire that the gauge is hooked up to only has power when the ignition switch is in the on and start positions. The instructions to the gauge does say that I need to hook the positive wire up to the ignition switch + 12 volt connection and to have an inline 1amp 3ag fuse, and I do. It also says to have the ground wire to a good engine ground with a picture of the ground wire running to the negative side on the battery.I have the ground wire grounded to the metal dash just like all the other grounds for oil ,water temp, volt gauge lights.  I'm going to go out on a limb and say I don't think that would make that much difference, or would it ?  I guess I could take a volt meter and check what kind of voltage is at that + connection I have the gauge hooked up at.  
 
 

     Thread Starter
 

7/13/2013 7:12 AM  #6


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

Oh, OK... So this is one of those things where you need a gauge to be sure your electric fuel pump is functional?  Kind of like adding shackles because the rear tires are too big...  LOL

I will keep quiet...


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

7/13/2013 7:28 AM  #7


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

MustangSteve wrote:

Oh, OK... So this is one of those things where you need a gauge to be sure your electric fuel pump is functional?  Kind of like adding shackles because the rear tires are too big...  LOL

I will keep quiet...

 
The airtex pumps I use are pretty quite.I had one leave me stranded about 30 miles from home one time and it was good to know just by the pressure gauge what the problem was even before the tow truck got to me.
No, I wouldn't use shackles. Don't tell me your back tracking on your moniker ? (  Money you enjoy wasting is not wasting Money. ) 
 

 

     Thread Starter
 

7/13/2013 7:33 AM  #8


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

You could hook a volt meter up where the sending unit connects to the back of fuel pressure gauge, other side of volt meter to ground. If the volt meter reads steady and the fuel pressure gauge bounces around I would say the problem is in the gauge. If the volt meter bounces around just like the fuel gauge the problem is somewhere else. 


If this forum can't fix it, it isn't broke.
 

7/13/2013 8:25 AM  #9


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

The gauge is reading steady when it is reading, the needle doesn't bounce around or fluctuate when it's working. Randomly upon start up of engine the gauge either does not read any pressure, or it reads 3 psi or 8 psi.   
 
 

Last edited by Bob 1955 (7/13/2013 9:05 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

7/13/2013 9:24 AM  #10


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

I am probably more guilty of adding things that cause extra work and grief than anyone.  427 with TKO in a 66 is a good example.  I just never have understood the need for an electric fuel pump on a street driven car with a carburetor.  The manual pump will work nearly forever and cost 1/3 of what that tow job cost you, much less what you paid for the pump and the wiring and the gauge to monitor why it is not working.  It is an item that I see as NO IMPROVEMENT over a factory piece, so that is why I am always dismayed at why anyone would do that to themselves.

Oh, and that "I will keep quiet" thing...  Yeah, right!!!

But, to answer your original question... Is it possible you have a piece of teflon tape used on the threads?  It could be blocking the sensing port of the gauge, which is a very small hole. Or fuel tank crud could be blocking the hole.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

7/13/2013 9:40 AM  #11


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

I just had this discussion with the owner of a local speed shop.  His feeling is that the gauge is prolly accurate when you first start the car, after that all bets are off.  there are alot of factors, one being vibration, that is why the better ones are filled with fluid to reduce the vibration.  Second temperature, I would just imaging temperature from the engine or exhaust or just the air temp could change the fuel pressure.
I have ran natural gaslines across the roof of many buildings over the course of several years and when we are done we usually test them with air pressure.  I have learned the the hot sun shining down on a couple hundred feet of black pipe laying on a black roof will cause the pressure to rise as well as drop.
Like MS said the carb can cause the gauge to change pressures as well.
I have one under my hood just as a reference!! I cant see it going down the road,  I figure if its running right then fuel pressure is where it should be

 

7/13/2013 9:59 AM  #12


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

The reason I run an electric fuel pump is I drive the car very little. When I had a manual pump on it and the car sets the floats end up sticking in the fuel bowls.With the electric pump when I park the car I turn the pump off, run the bowls dry, no more sticking floats. I can see a liquid filled manual gauge under the hood with all the heat not working when it gets warm under the hood, but this gauge is electric and in the interior of car. I use liqiud teflon sealer, and have 2 new filters, new tank new stainless steel lines tabk to carburetor.
 
 

Last edited by Bob 1955 (7/13/2013 10:06 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

7/13/2013 10:58 AM  #13


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

MustangSteve wrote:

I am probably more guilty of adding things that cause extra work and grief than anyone.  427 with TKO in a 66 is a good example.  I just never have understood the need for an electric fuel pump on a street driven car with a carburetor.  The manual pump will work nearly forever and cost 1/3 of what that tow job cost you, much less what you paid for the pump and the wiring and the gauge to monitor why it is not working.  It is an item that I see as NO IMPROVEMENT over a factory piece, so that is why I am always dismayed at why anyone would do that to themselves.

Oh, and that "I will keep quiet" thing...  Yeah, right!!!

But, to answer your original question... Is it possible you have a piece of teflon tape used on the threads?  It could be blocking the sensing port of the gauge, which is a very small hole. Or fuel tank crud could be blocking the hole.

 
Steve, you having a bad day man ?  The attitude is somewhat questionable. It's been 8 or more years since my last visit it this forum and thought I would pop back in with a question on a problem I'm having, but that can be rectified. I'd like to thank the people that post some ideas on the problem and I'm sure I will come up with the answer to it, I always have.

 

     Thread Starter
 

7/13/2013 1:10 PM  #14


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

Bob, I do electrical and instruments for a living and sinsle has it right check the signal from the sending unit if its erratic make sure there is no air in the line ( if possible mount the unit in a low point in the line to keep air out and bleed it like brakes, if it still screwy after that I'd get a new sending unit. When trouble shooting these things start at the source and work outward. Hope it helps 


I made enough money to buy Miami, but pissed it away so fast
 

7/13/2013 1:41 PM  #15


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

Bob 1955 wrote:

MustangSteve wrote:

I am probably more guilty of adding things that cause extra work and grief than anyone.  427 with TKO in a 66 is a good example.  I just never have understood the need for an electric fuel pump on a street driven car with a carburetor.  The manual pump will work nearly forever and cost 1/3 of what that tow job cost you, much less what you paid for the pump and the wiring and the gauge to monitor why it is not working.  It is an item that I see as NO IMPROVEMENT over a factory piece, so that is why I am always dismayed at why anyone would do that to themselves.

Oh, and that "I will keep quiet" thing...  Yeah, right!!!

But, to answer your original question... Is it possible you have a piece of teflon tape used on the threads?  It could be blocking the sensing port of the gauge, which is a very small hole. Or fuel tank crud could be blocking the hole.

 
Steve, you having a bad day man ?  The attitude is somewhat questionable. It's been 8 or more years since my last visit it this forum and thought I would pop back in with a question on a problem I'm having, but that can be rectified. I'd like to thank the people that post some ideas on the problem and I'm sure I will come up with the answer to it, I always have.

 

 You are right.  I want to welcome you back to the forum, not run you off with opinions.  I did finally offr some suggestions as to what might be the problem...


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

7/13/2013 3:11 PM  #16


Re: Auto Meter gauge problems

Bob 1955 wrote:

I can see a liquid filled manual gauge under the hood with all the heat not working when it gets warm under the hood, but this gauge is electric and in the interior of car. 
 
 

I understand what your saying about the gauge being inside the car.  my question is Where is the sending unit???  My fuel press gauge is under the hood on the drivers inner fender on the regulator.
do you have a pressure regulator on the fuel line?  where is it if you have one?  Im sure your fuel line runs outside of the car, possibly under the car it is subject to heatsink from ,if nothing else the blacktop roadway. Also the fuel line runs up into the engine compartment and is subject to heat from the engine.  Not saying this is your problem, just saying there are a lot of factors that can affect the pressure readings.

 

Board footera


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