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Hello all, happy Holidays to everyone!
I have s 68 mustang coupe, 289 c4. The problem is recently the car has been backfiring when it gets to around 70 mph on the parkway, ive tried timing adjustments to no avail and the car has no power- I was just looking things over again and was wondering if a loose timing chain would cause this symptom. I was going to take the distributor out and start from scratch with TDC. Then upon turning the fan to turn the motor, i noticed the rotor wasnt turning right away. There was a delay before it started turning. Could this be the problem? Shouldnt it start turning right away? Ok, thanks everyone!
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When there is a little wear on the timing chain and distributor gear, there will be a little backlash between engine rotation and distributor rotation. By turning with the fan, you may be also getting some belt slip which could add to the perceived delay. If it starts and idles well and responds to timing changes it is probably not the timing chain (but never say never). When I have had this problem in the past at a sustained higher speed I had two scenarios. The first was a bum fuel pump. It kept up at slower speeds and even some acceleration since there is fuel in the bowls but at sustained speeds where you need a constant supply of fuel you may be running out. Second one was timing related. I had a vacuum advance that was adjustable. The adjusting set screw would gradually back out over the course of weeks and under steady driving at higher speeds it produced way too much advance and it would sputter and backfire. Under higher loads and while accelerating the vacuum signal is low and you won't have the problem. It usually only shows itself under steady state conditions on a flat straight section of road. Easy check for this is to disconnect your vacuum advance hose and block it. Take it for a drive and see if the symptoms repeat. If it still sputters, I'd look at the pump. All this assumes that your mechanical advance in the distributor isn't broken which could also give you too much advance. But this would usually cause inconsistent readings at idle as well.
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Thanx GPat! Much aporeciated, checked tdc, everything still good there. Starts right up no problem. Bad pump would account for that lack of power feel also i guess? Will check tomorrow and fill you in, ok? Thanx again. When i block the abvance hose, also block the inlet on the carb?
Last edited by rtmjr13@optonline.net (11/25/2018 4:47 PM)
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Either pull the hose at the carb, and use a rubber block off plug on the carb fitting. OR, pull the hose at the vacuum canister, and use a small bolt in the hose to block it.
Last edited by 50vert (11/25/2018 5:04 PM)
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A couple of years ago I was heading down the canyon and suddenly the little 289 started coughing and sputtering with loud pops out the exhaust. If I drove slow and did not push it it ran OK. I arrived my destination and started to trouble shoot the problem. With the full manifold vacuum removed from the distributor it ran just fine. I sent the distributor to the Mustang Barn for overhaul and curving. MB was amazed the engine ran as the distributor was on its last legs. Once back in the car it ran better than it ever has.
So I vote for a worn out distributor.
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Thanx for all the tips. It seemed to have been a bad timing issue, found true tdc and tuned it by ear! Took it on the LIE took it up to 80 (oooh, dont tell!) now to fine tune it.
Now im trying yo find the correct pcv valve. It seems as though theyve gone to a one size fits all format. The pcv valve for the 68 289 was a blue plastic unit-then the damn thing blew up! No clue why, had to actually remove the valve cover to get the pieces before they went down the hole. Sny idea why?
Last edited by rtmjr13@optonline.net (11/28/2018 9:54 AM)
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Odd that a PCV would fail like that. Could just have been from age. Plastic gets brittle from heat, and I think those things are either glued or sonic welded together, neither of which is the strongest, most lasting type of bond in the world.
I'd check the timing with an actual light/tape. I've found those low compression 289s can be timed WAY off and still seem to run great, but you're giving up a ton of power.
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Yup, that pvc just exploded, scared the hell out of me!
The timing was dead on tdc. I used a piston stop, hand rotated both ways, split the diff, it was dead on, and yes, it has no balls at all! Started life as a 2 bbl, had motor done roughly 8-10 yrs ago. Only changes were a Holley 390 cfm 4bbl, edelbrock performer intake, and a rv cam. No idea what cam. So my next step is the whole edelbrock kit, the heads and the cam that comes with it, ill just keep the intake. Im not going to change the rear end, its a 8 inch 3.00 Posi from the factory, nice summer cruiser.
Last edited by rtmjr13@optonline.net (11/28/2018 4:51 PM)
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I'd go through the timing first. It made a tremendous difference in how my car performed once I had it right. You need to figure out where the total timing is, and set that. Change the advance springs to the lightest ones in the kit. I set mine at 38 degrees total. 12 degrees initial with 26 degrees of mechanical. All advance in by 3,000RPM with the lightest springs. You'd swear the car had another 40HP.
What's the exhaust like? I'd sink money into headers and exhaust before buying heads, etc.
I'd ditch that Holley for an Edelbrock 500 too. 390 is a tad small for a 289. The stock A code cars were 435cfm I think. The Edelbrock 500 runs great and is easy to tune.
After that you could mess with the heads and cam if so inclined, but the A code 289s had pretty much and RV cam anyway. They're done by 5,000RPM, but they make amazing low end torque for such a small engine.
The 3.00 rear gear is decent, and the 8" is plenty strong for a street car with a 289. I run a 3.55 in mine, but I also have a T5 swap, so in 5th on the highway I can easily run 80 if needed. Without an overdrive gear it was too much for freeway speeds.
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