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1/26/2019 7:50 PM  #1


Parts information

Mustang: 1986 GT, 5 speed

Am in the middle of a bumper to bumper restoration / rebuild of the car and just tore down the engine.  I am searching for a book, credible online guide, or other sources to verify the original Ford vehicle that each part was installed in at the factory (so I know if the part is worth re-installing in the Mustang).  Discoveries so far (book referenced below is 'Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference & Performance Handbook'):
1. Transmission was built in 1984, installed in a 1984 model car / truck, and is not a world class T5.
2. Heads: E7TE ('87-'93).
3. Pistons: TRW E7ZE-CA (believe it is '87-'93), although the book states E7ZA are '87-'93.
4. Crankshaft: E7AE-AA not listed in the book as one of the 3 crankshafts installed in the Mustang between '79 and '93.
5. Cam: Does not have any Ford stamps on it.  Only markings are 'XXXXX' around one end with a 'ZE' stamped below the ring of 'XXXXX'.
5. Block: has not been cleaned yet.  Taking to shop this week.  Will follow-up with markings.

Thank you.

Patrick
Kingwood, TX
 

 

1/27/2019 7:02 AM  #2


Re: Parts information

Ford part numbers follow the following criteria:

1st place (i.e. "E") is the decade code starting in the '40s, so E is the '80s.

2nd place is the year inside the decade, so "7" for example means the 7th year, or 1987

3rd place is the vehicle type, where "Z" is for the Mustang

4th place is the engineering group, where "Z" denotes a Ford service part.

Then the number corresponds to a specific part, for example, "13450" would be a right side tail light lens.  That number is often used across models, so that part of the number is the same for Mustangs, T-Birds, etc.  The third place tells you what vehicle its for.

If there is a letter after the part number ("-A" for example) it denotes the major revision of the part.  They start at "A".  Occasionally you will see two letters, like "BA", what that means is the part is the second major revision, and first minor revision. 

Most Mustang parts for the '80s are going to start "ExZZ" (with the x being for the specific year).  Sometimes you'll find some "D" numbers because older parts were used or parts weren't changed since the Fox body's introduction in 1979 (D9).

Sometimes you will see other model prefixes in the part for say a T-bird, etc.  That's because Ford sometimes just went to the parts bin, and used parts first installed on another model, especially inside the Fox platform.

Part numbers for a model year car will never be correct if they are ahead of the year of the vehicle.  In other words, an '86 car might have some parts noted as being from '85, but not from '87. 

Your transmission is not correct.  In '86 it should be a World Class T5.

I would also say that the car has a later engine in it.  The E7TE heads were used from '87-'93, but in '86 they should be the older E5TZ heads.

Also worth noting, peculiar to Fords, the casting numbers on the head and even the numbers molded or cast into other parts are typically NOT the part number.  Those numbers are called internal engineering numbers and confusingly look exactly like a part number, but if you search for a part based on those numbers you won't find it in Ford's system. 

I know a ton about the Fox cars, so feel free to PM me with any questions you might have.  I'm doing a full restoration of my '89 GT right now, so I'm deeply involved in what's available, what's not, and where to find stuff. 

 

1/27/2019 4:31 PM  #3


Re: Parts information

Patrick, I just found out that we are nearly related.  Yup, your cousin Mike is my neighbor, car hobby commiserater, fellow tool source and all around good bud...even if he is a MoPar guy.  
I just borrowed a "pickle fork" from him for some front end work on the Heap and he mentioned that you had posted this morning.  He had mentioned that you were recently "hooked" and were embarking on a life of frustration, confusion, and skun knuckles along with moments of extreme satisfaction, pleasure, and pride. 
So, welcome first to a great hobby and one of the most educational experiences you'll have.  And, welcome to this forum.  I think you'll find the quality of the information here second only to the quality of the people. 
I see you are in the Houston area and you couldn't be better placed for being in a nest of Mustang folks. I'm sure a number of them will be chiming in to welcome you to the gang.
And if you can, you are cordially invited to join the fun at our annual Bash.  This year we will be in Clinton MI and you can read all the info at the top of this forum and also check the Index and read the Bash Forum.  If you can make it I guarantee you and your wife (sig.other) will have a good time and meet a great group.  (Not required that you drive the 'Stang.  We have a number of folks who "bring the Kia" every year.  So, just be there.)

Wish I was more acquainted with the Fox cars but I'm sure you'll get what you need from others.  But reading the numbers you posted, I wouldn't be surprised if that car had be given a later engine possibly from a truck or maybe a Crown Vic, Marquis, or TC.  I betting truck though as that might explaine the E7TE heads and possibly the crank.

Again, Welcome.

BB
 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (1/27/2019 4:36 PM)


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

1/27/2019 5:38 PM  #4


Re: Parts information

The E7TE heads were designed for the trucks, but were used on all 5.0 Mustangs from '87-'93 as well.  Oddly in the late '80s and early '90s Ford, GM, and Chrysler all put their best heads on truck engines.  Ford started with the E5TEs that morphed in the E7TEs, which were the forebear of the GT40 heads used on the first gen Lightnings and Cobras.  GM had the Vortecs, and Chrysler had the Magnums.  Basically the best factory iron heads you could buy from their respective marques, and used by a lot of cost conscious hot rodders.  They are limited in ultimate performance, and require a lot of work to make a ton of power naturally aspirated, but for say a 300HP engine build they work great.  Beyond that the valve springs need to be changed, and screw in studs added, etc. to where the cost savings gets spent on machine work, and you're better off to just buy a set of Edelbrock or other entry level aluminum heads. 

The biggest difference in a Mustang and non Mustang 5.0 engine would be the cam.  The Mustang had a more performance oriented cam, though that's all relative.  I've sent most stock 5.0 Mustang cams to China to be returned as other consumer goods.  If you're dead set on stock you'll be able to find a stock Mustang cam for peanuts.  If you want to wake that engine up consider a Ford Racing B cam.  Those engines were under cammed from the factory, and you can pick up about 20 top end HP without any loss of low end with one of the better cams.  The heads are then a limiting factor, but the E7TEs respond well to porting if the porter knows what he's doing. Just be wary of the cost/benefit situation discussed above. 

 

1/27/2019 6:08 PM  #5


Re: Parts information

I believe the "Standard" 5.0 as used in the CV and TC had dished pistons and bigger combustion chambers.  At least, the core I pulled from an 89 TC did.  IIRC the heads were E7SE. 

BB


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

1/27/2019 8:24 PM  #6


Re: Parts information

The TE heads to the best of my knowledge only had one size combustion chamber, but no guarantee with heads of another casting number.  I'm sure the lower performance stuff had lower compression, and either bigger chambers or dished pistons, or both. 

The factory Mustang pistons were four valve relief with a very slightly depressed center.  I wouldn't go so far as to call it a dish though.  They were actually forged TRWs from '85-'92 in all 5.0 H.O.s.  They went to hypereutectics in '93.  This is how guys used to spray 200HP worth of nitrous into those engine and get them to live.

Still, they were by no means high compression.  They were right about 8.8:1 in the real world,  Ford's claim was 9:1, but was overly optimistic as factory compression ratios usually are.  You can bump the compression by milling the heads, running thinner gaskets, or changing the pistons, but with iron heads you'll start to need premium fuel fairly quick.  I wouldn't risk anything over 9.5:1 on 93 octane, and that's with properly tuned fuel and spark curves.

 

1/27/2019 9:50 PM  #7


Re: Parts information

nicely done BB.....
 

 

1/28/2019 10:47 AM  #8


Re: Parts information

Through 86, the 5.0 HO engines used a flat top forged piston with NO valve reliefs.  Valve reliefs show up in 87.  Unless you are going full concours on the car, the 87-93 parts would be a good choice. Sounds like someone already did you a favor to me.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

1/28/2019 10:54 AM  #9


Re: Parts information

I must agree with MS on this one.  If they converted the car to mass air they gave you the uber hookup. 

 

2/03/2019 12:36 PM  #10


Re: Parts information

TKO and BB,

Thank you for all of the information.  All of that data is right up my alley.  This is my first project car (worked a lot on an old VW in HS and college out of necessity) and find myself doing a lot of research (mostly through books and well documented information online) as I work through the car. 

TKE, as you work through the '89 let me know if I can help with anything.  I am working my way through the entire car and have developed a couple of solutions to problems along the way.

BB, very cool that you live next to Mike.  He has been a great source of motivation, knowledge, and entertainment as I work my way through this project!

As much as I love the fox body (I graduated HS in '87 and always wanted one), I am using this as training for the rebuild of a 429 to put in a Cobra kit car.  Don't get me wrong, I love the '86 GT, but thought it would be a more economical project to train on before I build a $40k to $45k car.

PT

     Thread Starter
 

2/03/2019 5:00 PM  #11


Re: Parts information

I've had to do the same thing for a lot of stuff.  Parts availability has generally been good, but some stuff is simply not available.  I replaced the fuel and brake lines with stainless lines for example, and though the lines are easy to get no one makes clips for them.  So I bought some sheet stainless, a bench top metal shear, and made the tooling to exactly duplicate the factory clips in stainless. 

My car isn't going to be a strict restoration by any means.  My friends and I had and raced these cars when they were still newish.  I learned a lot about what the cars did well and what they didn't.  I knew the stock brakes for example had to go, and one of my first decisions was to run '94-'04 Cobra brakes on all 4 corners.  The stock rear suspension leaves a lot to be desired, so I chose a Maximum Motorsports panhard rod and LCAs.  Engine wise they ran pretty good, but in a day when typically 4 cylinders are pumping out 200HP stock a 225HP V8 just doesn't sound all that impressive.  So I'm building a 5.0 based 331 stroker with AFR heads that should make more like 425HP NA, and on spray I could push the limits of the stock block.  Drivetrain breakage won't be a part of my life with this car, so I'm upgrading the guts in the T5 and built a 31 spline 3.73 geared 8.8.

On the outside I'm running Cobra R wheels and converted to 5 lug.  Otherwise its going to look basically like a stock '93 Cobra.  I always liked the look of the Cobra best.  I thought it solved the problem with the GT looking like it had a tank @$$.  All my bumpers, spats, etc. were junk anyway, so since I have to buy it one way or the other I'm going with the look I really like.  Exterior will be black, with a smoke gray interior. 

Hopefully by the end of the year I'll be pretty close to it being driveable.  I'm working on the last details of the engine build now.  My tranny parts are all ordered, so that's the next assembly I'll complete.  The undercarriage and rear end of the car is done.  I'm waiting on warmer weather to spray the engine bay, and then I can put the front end back together, engine in, etc.  Not bad considering I started this project about two years ago, and we had another kid during that time. 

Keep me in the loop with your project too.  I've been restoring cars for over 25 years now of all makes and models, but the Fox cars earned a special place in my heart. 

 

2/03/2019 9:56 PM  #12


Re: Parts information

Hey TEE-KO, sounds like a cool project.  How about some pix?

BB


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

2/04/2019 7:01 AM  #13


Re: Parts information

Actually the 86 5.0 was an oddity. The 85 5.0 used forged flat top pistons with valve reliefs and the heads were basically carry overs from  the 77 and later Windsors. The heads all had 69CC chambers. 1.78” intake and 1.45” exhaust. This head was used on both 302/5.0 and 351/5.8 with the only difference being the size of the head bolts. For 85, a slight change to the casting was done to allow removal of the roller tappets on 5.0 motors.

The 86 5.0 used a 1 year only head and piston. The piston was flat and had no valve reliefs. The heads had heart shaped combination chambers along with a unique intake port that had a swirl shape. The intake plenum and manifold were also unique for 86 on the Mustang. They had smaller diameter runners. In 87 Ford went to the truck E7  head because it flowed a lot better. They had 4 reliefs in the piston and the runners were enlarged on the plenum and manifold. Power went from 200 hp in 86 to 225 in 87.


I'm not a complete idiot.....pieces are missing. Tom
 

2/04/2019 2:05 PM  #14


Re: Parts information

Not to hijack, but for BB, and anyone else interested I started a fresh thread about my '89 GT located here:

http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=9346

 

2/04/2019 2:12 PM  #15


Re: Parts information

Huskinhano wrote:

Actually the 86 5.0 was an oddity. The 85 5.0 used forged flat top pistons with valve reliefs and the heads were basically carry overs from the 77 and later Windsors. The heads all had 69CC chambers. 1.78” intake and 1.45” exhaust. This head was used on both 302/5.0 and 351/5.8 with the only difference being the size of the head bolts. For 85, a slight change to the casting was done to allow removal of the roller tappets on 5.0 motors.

The 86 5.0 used a 1 year only head and piston. The piston was flat and had no valve reliefs. The heads had heart shaped combination chambers along with a unique intake port that had a swirl shape. The intake plenum and manifold were also unique for 86 on the Mustang. They had smaller diameter runners. In 87 Ford went to the truck E7 head because it flowed a lot better. They had 4 reliefs in the piston and the runners were enlarged on the plenum and manifold. Power went from 200 hp in 86 to 225 in 87.

Well, '86 was the first year for EFI, albeit sped density.  I've often found one year oddities on the first year of a particular model.  My '02 WRX had some peculiarities like that.  For example, I had to change around the overflow piping for the radiator when replacing it due to the '02 having had a one year only setup.  Bought the kit directly from Subaru to do it (new hard line, etc.). 

Most of the '86s I ended up seeing had been converted to mass air, and usually also had the '87-'93 front end on them.  I guess at the time the four eyed look was simply seen as dated.  Now I think it adds some distinction, especially with the different quarter windows, etc. of those mid '80s 'stangs. 
 

 

2/06/2019 9:11 PM  #16


Re: Parts information

TKO,

I will keep you posted on my progress and upload some pictures this weekend as I work on the '86.

TKO and BB,

You have probably discovered this as you have restored projects before, but I thought I would pass it on anyway.  The '86GT sat outside a lot the last year and the interior took on moisture.  Most of the metal components of the dash and footwells were completely rusted.  Used WD-40 formula (at $25 per gal), but discovered that distilled vinegar works great on removing rust from components.  Just let it soak for a day or two and the rust practically wipes right off.  Has worked great as I restored parts.

PT

     Thread Starter
 

2/07/2019 5:35 AM  #17


Re: Parts information

Actually I didn't know that!  Thanks for the tip!  It makes sense though, vinegar is a mild acid.

 

2/22/2019 10:13 PM  #18


Re: Parts information

TKO and others doing restorations,

What are your opinions on re-using brake lines?  My '86 has around 100k miles on it and the brake lines appear to be in good shape.  Anything I should look for as I make a decision on whether to simply clean them up and put them back on the car, or buy new?

Thank you for your thoughts.

PT

     Thread Starter
 

2/22/2019 11:45 PM  #19


Re: Parts information

If the hard lines are still in good shape, meaning no kinks, dents, rust, or rounded off fittings. I see no sense in replacing them. Flexible lines, most definitely buy new.


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
 

2/23/2019 6:45 AM  #20


Re: Parts information

What John says.  I would flush some fresh fluid through everything though.

BB


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

2/23/2019 6:49 AM  #21


Re: Parts information

I'd never reuse them for the simple reason that I've often seen them fail from in the inside out, not the other way around.  The damage they've likely sustained is impossible to see.  Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water, and thus you have a corrosive element inside you braking system.  You really should change your brake fluid every two years to remove water and other contamination.  Very, very few people ever do that.  To me, brakes are something that aren't worth taking chances with.  I replaced all my hard lines with stainless lines so I never have to worry about them again.  The Fox cars are 30+ years old now, about the same age as my '67 was when I started working on it,  A lot happens in 30 years both seen and unseen.  Rust is a devious demon.  What you see is often the tip of the iceberg. 
 

 

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.