You need to check to see if the front and rear wheels are in line (thrust angle) and if your steering is centered.  If camber and caster are correct the issue lies either with toe or thrust angle.

I will also say that ideally you want about 0.25-.0.50 degrees more caster on the RH wheel to account for road crown.  If the caster is the same side to side the pull you're experiencing might be the road; not the car. 

What I've been working on lately: http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=77530#p77530

Took the firewall cover off and wrapped that black sticky tared cork stuff around the a/c tubes to stop the condensation from dripping on Karen's feet.

Not for my Mustang but for a '67 Shelby GT 350 that we are gonna make the rest of a custom Monte Carlo bar for tomorrow as it's supercharged and the intake pipe is in the way for a regular bar.



 

Hakan wrote:

The finishing of the Monte Carlo bar and install had to wait until earlier tonight. I am well aware of the pointlessness of using heim joints as part of the design, but the owner wanted them and as I got paid anyway I can live with it.

Please tell me what you cut up to make that fine fender apron.
 

Bullet Bob wrote:

Other than that, I'm gonna try not to do anything but drive it for the next couple of years.....RIGHT!

BB

 Yeah right. These cars are never done are they? My first long distance bash to Florida and I lost the brake lights. Fried the switch as a wire got caught between the clutch pedal and some sheet metal. Installed a push-button switch on the shifter so I could manually light the brake lights the rest of the way home. Got that fixed. Wife lost an appendix on the way home in Denton, TX. Second long distance bash to Glen Rose, TX and the car ran fabulous the whole way. No problems whatsoever (that I know of). What is in store for this years Bash? Can I bring enough parts to fix it on the side of the road? IDK, but it seems the more I drive it the more fixing it needs. They may be simple, but most of my parts are old, including me. 

I am still trying to figure out why the cruise control switches off "sometimes' with the left turn signal, never the right. That drives me frigging nuts. 

The AC don't work to well in the hotter climates. I roll all the windows down and it's still hot in the car. Someday I'll fix that too. 

Oh, the horn only seems to work 97.365% of the time, not when you really need it. 

 

Winter is waning and my health is improved some so its time to start back in with a vengeance on restoring the 67.  I was going to tie up the fuel system, flush the cooling system, replace the radiator, freshen up the ignition system and have her running by the end of the Spring.  That plan has been scrapped.
The previous owner had been in a driver front accident and did a patch job.  He replaced the driver fender, WHOLE DRIVER FRONT FENDER APRON (original VIN is gone, but the passenger VIN is still there), and rear driver fender apron.  While everything appears to be “within spec” (measurements to come), the weld job was very sub par.  There are washers and bolts welded into the seams of the patch work to fill in the gaps.  Needless to say I can’t leave it like that. 


So the next iteration of getting the car up and running is to pull the engine and replace the offending fender aprons.  The “While You’re In There” rule rears it’s ugly head.  Since I’m pulling the engine I figured its time to get put in an Explorer 5.0 and a T5 from the Buzeks. 

Here are some pictures of my progress so far and the fender aprons getting replaced.

 

Done with the polishing of the shortened Explorer drive shaft, next in line is the cold air intake:

Drove it to lunch today!!!

Got the new gears set up in the chunk and it's all back in the car. Shifted the rearend 1/4" to get it centered in the car while I was at it. Drove it about 25 miles last night. The interior is a lot quieter. No tire rubbing with an empty trunk either. Now, to deal with the wind noise and find out what it does loaded.


It's kinda funny......as I sit here and eating lunch staring at the car, it's got a 1/8" of pollen dust on it from sitting in the garag and people stopping to take pictures as they go by.

Life is good today.....along with a bunch of others. 

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (4/05/2019 11:14 AM)

John, did moving your rear end help with the tyre scrape issues you had??
Hope so ....it'd be a shame to swap those wheels.
... just reread the post. Is it still the 8"?

Last edited by 50vert (4/05/2019 3:53 PM)

I "ranched" mine off....getting ready for 'company' next week AND the weekend car show tomorrow.
I had to "git-after-it" with a flat-nose shovel to get the old yeller pollen off of it first before I could wrench-it!
The stuff was extra heavy this year!  Not sure if "pollen-season" is finally over YET butt......its getting less-and-less.
6sally6

6sally6 wrote:

..........snip........I had to "git-after-it" with a flat-nose shovel to get the old yeller pollen off of it first before I could wrench-it! ..............snip.......6sally6

I'm beginning to understand that the homesteaders hereabouts speak a native tongue unknown to other humans (yes, I'm talking bout you BB).

So...u have pollen in SC so thick that a shovel is needed to remove said pollen from Automobiles......OK....fine......I completely understand.

Hakan wrote:

Made this "cold air intake" .........snip......

That is not a "cold air intake"...it's a piece of Art.

Putting the 5.0 roller block engine back together today. Once the rings were installed, all 8 slugs went back in their respective hole. Cam and timing chain are in, lifters, dog bones and spider, oil pump, pick up screen. Sorting out the timing chain cover/h2o pump bolts for tomorrows install.  Ended the day by giving the block and pan a coat of paint.......in between all that, pestered BB and MS with questions.  Should have the engine buttoned up tomorrow.....twill see....