Keep the Fox wiring in place and get a Plug and Play Megasquirt! DIY Auto Tune has them along with Stinger perf. They plug right in to the 60 pin EEC connector.

That's awesome. Yeah the stim allows you to power up the Megasquirt on the bench and simulate some of the sensor inputs like TPS, O2, RPM, temp etc. Comes in handy to ensure that the box is working good. I found that it's good for learning the Tuner Studio software as well. Not sure what you mean about the turbo? Do you mean turbo/automatic trans features in the Megasquirt? I'd take the MSD box, you could sell or trade it down the road

Raymond_B wrote:

That's awesome. Yeah the stim allows you to power up the Megasquirt on the bench and simulate some of the sensor inputs like TPS, O2, RPM, temp etc. Comes in handy to ensure that the box is working good. I found that it's good for learning the Tuner Studio software as well. Not sure what you mean about the turbo? Do you mean turbo/automatic trans features in the Megasquirt? I'd take the MSD box, you could sell or trade it down the road

Interesting, I was not exactly sure what the stimulators function was, good to know, I am just kinda scratching the surface with the Microsquirt stuff. Well  the  gentleman was running a boosted setup with 80mm turbo on his fox body, with E85 or some such thing, but in researching adding a turbo to my car being a manual vs. an automatic trans car, I have not found a way to route the exhaust with a manual trans car and they only seem to route it with an automatic trans car.

TKO, I had read about the quarterhorse and a little about the moates, but just have easy access to this megasquirt for a pretty good deal. With it being a DIY unit it should just come “pre-tuned” to just run my 306, with any adjustment being easily accessible. Like I mentioned I found the A3M1 computer ( thats for a 1992 5.0 5 speed trans) but was a little Leary after reading a few threads about folks having a glitch in the old computers and locking up their motors? Also you mention there is a built In rev limiter in the Fox body system, wouldn’t that be in the software of the ECU? Wouldn’t the redundancy of the MSD ignition just be a good fail safe?

6sally6 wrote:

Why would you NOT want to use a nice Edelbrock carb and intake?! Maybe you don't realize what you'll be missing.....
    The gas fumes....the stinky exhaust(I put cherry fragrance in my ethynol fuel)....the cold start issues(the chug-chug-chug of warm ups)....the sticking electric chokes....the pat-pat-pat of the accelerator while crank-crank-cranking the engine....smelly clothes after a nice ride.......jeez why???!
6sally6

Hahahah, funny stuff right there! Honestly I have never owned a car with a carb, that’s sounds weird now that I say that... well maybe I did my first car was a 65 Volkswagen bug but I never had issues that I remember, do recall the sweet smell of running rich and such. I guess I also get my fill in my old ski boat, 454 with an edlebrock on it! Talk about cold starts and running rich, plus I used to run it cool without a thermostat, it always ran nice and cool though. Lots of pumping the throttle...

I never did get an answer to my original question, what headers does everybody prefer with a T-5 and cable clutch?

And...they STILL haven't answered your original question...LOL.   Butt (TS&T), I will make a feeble beginning effort.

For a simple street driven cruiser I prefer the HiPo cast iron manifolds.  They clear everything, are reasonably priced, and if treated to a bead blast and two coats of POR-15 Exhaust paint will look great for years.
Or, a lot of guys on here go for various headers and the best fitting seem to be the JBA Shorties.  I guess they are pricey but they are apparently the easiest to deal with in the early cars.
You mentioned Tri-Ys and other than hanging down in the dirt, if you are running EFI they will cause you to place the HEGOs a long way from the exhaust ports...and that isn't the best for closed loop operation from what I have read.

Okay, I got it going.  Now people who know what they are talking about can chime in.

Good luck and If you go with the MegaSquirt let us know how it works out. 

BB
 

Bullet Bob wrote:

And...they STILL haven't answered your original question...LOL.   Butt (TS&T), I will make a feeble beginning effort.

For a simple street driven cruiser I prefer the HiPo cast iron manifolds.  They clear everything, are reasonably priced, and if treated to a bead blast and two coats of POR-15 Exhaust paint will look great for years.
Or, a lot of guys on here go for various headers and the best fitting seem to be the JBA Shorties.  I guess they are pricey but they are apparently the easiest to deal with in the early cars.
You mentioned Tri-Ys and other than hanging down in the dirt, if you are running EFI they will cause you to place the HEGOs a long way from the exhaust ports...and that isn't the best for closed loop operation from what I have read.

Okay, I got it going.  Now people who know what they are talking about can chime in.

This makes sense, placement of the HEGO would definitely be higher up if I used a shorty, leaning towards patriots cloisters, supposed to tuck tight Up against the motor. Also need to place the wide band 02 sensor in there somewhere.

Good luck and If you go with the MegaSquirt let us know how it works out. 

BB
 

Bullet Bob wrote:

And...they STILL haven't answered your original question...LOL.   Butt (TS&T), I will make a feeble beginning effort.

For a simple street driven cruiser I prefer the HiPo cast iron manifolds.  They clear everything, are reasonably priced, and if treated to a bead blast and two coats of POR-15 Exhaust paint will look great for years.
Or, a lot of guys on here go for various headers and the best fitting seem to be the JBA Shorties.  I guess they are pricey but they are apparently the easiest to deal with in the early cars.
You mentioned Tri-Ys and other than hanging down in the dirt, if you are running EFI they will cause you to place the HEGOs a long way from the exhaust ports...and that isn't the best for closed loop operation from what I have read.

Okay, I got it going.  Now people who know what they are talking about can chime in.

Good luck and If you go with the MegaSquirt let us know how it works out. 

BB
 

JBAs generally fit well, but they will interfere with a Borgeson power steering system (they hit the box).  They can be made to fit with some clearancing, but it sucks doing that on brand new headers.  I've heard that the FPA headers clear without issue. 

I have tri-Y headers and a DIY Borgeson power steering setup (see my how-to/tips post on it).  I knew I was going to have to revise my headers due to the GT40P heads I'm running on my 302 (see my post on that if interested) so I bought cheap SS headers on ebay.  I had to move e few tubes around due to the heads but non interfered with the Isuzu box whcih I used, which is the same one Borgeson uses.  I also don't have any ground clearance issues.  So I'm guessing that try-Y headers that are close to the original patterns will work.