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I have finally got the engine out of the car and I'm about to begin replacing the driver fender aprons where, I assume, the previous owner did a sorry job on mating the pieces together. I'll show in the pictures. Fortunately the VIN on the passenger fender apron is still intact. The knucklehead that replaced the driver fender apron with the VIN didn't even attempt to maintain the VIN. They just hammered out the VIN on there. In such a situation what have you seen done? Do you cut a section out of the passenger fender to expose the VIN so I don't make paper work for a cop if I'm ever pulled over? Don't do anything? Leave the fender alone and just let it cover it up to protect the VIN?
To get the springs out I made my own spring compressor and it works like a charm! I think I went overboard on the 1" threaded rod and 1 1/2" nut. I did put a thrust bearing under the nut to make it a little easier to turn.
My goal is to have an engine and tranny in the car by the end of the summer and it running. Then my goal is to have the car driving by the end of the fall.
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I've yet to see the VIN be an issue on a classic. Our DMV goes by the title and the door tag. If those match you're GTG. Fair warning every state is different so I'd see what the one in your state wants from those who've been through it. If the VIN were intact I would cut that section out and weld it into the patch panel. Another option would be to just hand stamp it if its not intact. Whether or not a set of Harbor Freight punches is the exact font, etc. as the Ford factory used is WAY overthinking it. The guys at the DMV won't know the difference, if they even bother to check.
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Similar situation for me as I was going to replace the inner fender on my '67 with my homemade stuff. Called the Swedish authorities in charge of these things and asked them what to do. They said "keep the old stuff and take pictures of what you're doing" which made me make this video documenting what I did and for possible later use as proof.
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Hakan,
You sir are a legend! I see the calibre of your work and it is astounding.
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Mike, once you start cutting the fender aprons out, especially between the shock tower and firewall, the front frame extensions will start to move up and down. If the PO did a good job of keeping it straight for the work they did, then just support the frame extension front and back. If you have any doubts, now will be the time to make any corrections.
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Stevo wrote:
Hakan,
You sir are a legend! I see the calibre of your work and it is astounding.
Many thanks!
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Thanks Bolted To Floor! I'm attempting to decipher the factory manual dimensions diagrams.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |