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7/17/2019 4:36 PM  #1


Thinking about Air Conditioning

Guys, Gals,
So here I sit thinking it would be nice to have AC in the 67 coupe for next years Bash. The large question is; will my stock 20" radiator that is 25 years old be up to the task? Me says maybe, could be marginal, etc....

Currently I am running a stock brass/copper 20" radiator that was installed in 1993. It does have a fan shroud and I am running a clutch fan (although it is out of a 1991 Isuzu Amigo). I have had zero cooling problems. Granted in 95F temps and stop and go traffic I have seen the temp gauge get close to H, but it has never boiled over. 

My thinking is that I could go to a 24" radiator with saddle mounts, a new shroud, etc, or go this route and install a 20" Coldcase aluminum jobber and retain my current mounting, shroud and fan. (no matter what, I think I'll replace the fan so it is period correct). 

The radiator in question is this:

 


Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado - 67 Coupe, 289-4V, T5
 

7/17/2019 4:45 PM  #2


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

Hey Gary,
Next year's bash is in April...you might just need a heater and not AC...

 

7/17/2019 4:49 PM  #3


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

I have a 20" aluminum rad from Virginia Classic, a 20" condenser from Nostalgic Air Parts, an 18" seven blade fan on a thermal clutch, a proper shroud.....and zero problems.  At least with the cooling system.

BB


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

7/17/2019 5:29 PM  #4


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

josh-kebob wrote:

Hey Gary,
Next year's bash is in April...you might just need a heater and not AC...

I have thought about that, but it would be nice to cruise down the HWY at 80 MPH with the windows rolled up.


Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado - 67 Coupe, 289-4V, T5
     Thread Starter
 

7/17/2019 5:31 PM  #5


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

Bullet Bob wrote:

I have a 20" aluminum rad from Virginia Classic, a 20" condenser from Nostalgic Air Parts, an 18" seven blade fan on a thermal clutch, a proper shroud.....and zero problems.  At least with the cooling system.

BB

18 inch 7 blader, on what ford did that come from?
 


Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado - 67 Coupe, 289-4V, T5
     Thread Starter
 

7/17/2019 6:31 PM  #6


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

My better half demanded cold air on a trip home from Georgia when it rained most of the way home.
As soon as we got home I ordered a Classic air system and installed it in my 68 with a recored standard rad, a stock four blade fan and a pusher Spall electric, the system over heated.
I tried a bigger electric puller fan, still no good.
I ordered a Champion 24 inch aluminum rad  with the big puller electric another flop
  A custom made shroud  was next with an engine driven aftermarket multi blade stainless steel fan which worked alright but not to my satisfaction.
I found a Ford 5 blade of dubious provenance, cut the o/d down to fit the shroud and have not looked back since regardless of out side temperatures.
AfAIAC a multi blade o/e mechanical fan is the way to go.


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

7/18/2019 6:10 AM  #7


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

RV6 wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:

I have a 20" aluminum rad from Virginia Classic, a 20" condenser from Nostalgic Air Parts, an 18" seven blade fan on a thermal clutch, a proper shroud.....and zero problems.  At least with the cooling system.

BB

18 inch 7 blader, on what ford did that come from?
 

Sorry Gary, it's a 17" and it was on our car when we bought it.  The car had a tag on the right fender apron indicating that it had AC and the Vin.  I always figured it was a factory air car instead of having dealer installed.  Anyway, that fan was on it with the stock 17" rad and no shroud.

BB


"you get what you pay for, good work isn't cheap, and there are NO free lunches...PERIOD!"
 

7/18/2019 7:14 AM  #8


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

RV6 wrote:

Guys, Gals,

 Granted in 95F temps and stop and go traffic I have seen the temp gauge get close to H, but it has never boiled over. 

 

Gary, this is before the extra load on the cooling system from AC!!!  For most of my life, I have run older cars with lots of miles. I give up having radiators worked on and moved to finding something new and bigger than what was originally installed. That would be my recommendation to you.

I bought a Champion 4 core from Amazon for the Mustang. It does get a little tight installing the fan clutch on the water pump. The lower saddles are different for 67 and 68, both can be bought new. The unit I bought used the 67 lower saddles. If you find you need them for a 68, let me know. I have a set hanging on the wall I can't use and will make you a deal. 

There are a couple of Hayden fan clutches with varying heights that can be bought. Here is a link to the Tips section with a chart. I bought the 2711.http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=8497


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
 

7/18/2019 2:26 PM  #9


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

20" copper/brass three row, 180 t-stat, stock parts store water pump, SPAL fan with a controller I built.  Hottest I've seen it get was 210 when it was in the high 90s with high humidity and a heat index well past 100.  When I finally get to the AC I will be going to an aluminum radiator and I do not expect anything will change cooling wise.  The copper/brass just can't reject heat as well as aluminum.

Clutch fans. flex fans, electric fans, the debate rages.  I think guys just tend to use whatever they've found that works.  I can say that if you buy a cheap electric fan you will 100% regret it.  If you buy a SPAL or use something like and OEM Contour fan you will be happy with an electric.  My car never ran at such a predictable and stable temperature in the cold or in the heat before I installed my current fan setup. 

 

7/18/2019 4:04 PM  #10


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

TKOPerformance wrote:

20" copper/brass three row, 180 t-stat, stock parts store water pump, SPAL fan with a controller I built.  Hottest I've seen it get was 210 when it was in the high 90s with high humidity and a heat index well past 100.  When I finally get to the AC I will be going to an aluminum radiator and I do not expect anything will change cooling wise.  The copper/brass just can't reject heat as well as aluminum.

Clutch fans. flex fans, electric fans, the debate rages.  I think guys just tend to use whatever they've found that works.  I can say that if you buy a cheap electric fan you will 100% regret it.  If you buy a SPAL or use something like and OEM Contour fan you will be happy with an electric.  My car never ran at such a predictable and stable temperature in the cold or in the heat before I installed my current fan setup. 

Maybe I'm old fashioned but I'll stick with mechanical fans with clutches. The sound of fans running in a classic Mustang is just wrong.
 


Gary Zilik - Pine Junction, Colorado - 67 Coupe, 289-4V, T5
     Thread Starter
 

7/20/2019 10:27 AM  #11


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

TKOPerformance wrote:

20" copper/brass three row, 180 t-stat, stock parts store water pump, SPAL fan with a controller I built.  Hottest I've seen it get was 210 when it was in the high 90s with high humidity and a heat index well past 100.  When I finally get to the AC I will be going to an aluminum radiator and I do not expect anything will change cooling wise.  The copper/brass just can't reject heat as well as aluminum.

 
This is a good time to remind everyone why the factories used copper radiators for so long. Copper transmits heat nearly twice as well as aluminum. The reason aluminum radiators are popular is price, you can buy two, maybe 3, aluminum radiators for the price of one copper radiator . 

If you are running a small Windsor and your cooling is marginal, it’s possible you could solve the problem by installing a four row stock style copper radiator. Of course, that copper radiator will cost $500-600.

One other factor in the copper vs aluminum choice for radiator material is that copper is significantly more corrosion resistant than aluminum. In fact if you are running an aluminum radiator you should also be running a magnesium sacrificial anode in the aluminum radiator.

 

7/20/2019 4:22 PM  #12


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

RV6 wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

20" copper/brass three row, 180 t-stat, stock parts store water pump, SPAL fan with a controller I built.  Hottest I've seen it get was 210 when it was in the high 90s with high humidity and a heat index well past 100.  When I finally get to the AC I will be going to an aluminum radiator and I do not expect anything will change cooling wise.  The copper/brass just can't reject heat as well as aluminum.

Clutch fans. flex fans, electric fans, the debate rages.  I think guys just tend to use whatever they've found that works.  I can say that if you buy a cheap electric fan you will 100% regret it.  If you buy a SPAL or use something like and OEM Contour fan you will be happy with an electric.  My car never ran at such a predictable and stable temperature in the cold or in the heat before I installed my current fan setup. 

Maybe I'm old fashioned but I'll stick with mechanical fans with clutches. The sound of fans running in a classic Mustang is just wrong.
 

If you can hear a cooling fan running either your exhaust is too quiet or your stereo too weak

 

7/20/2019 5:00 PM  #13


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

Hornman wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

20" copper/brass three row, 180 t-stat, stock parts store water pump, SPAL fan with a controller I built.  Hottest I've seen it get was 210 when it was in the high 90s with high humidity and a heat index well past 100.  When I finally get to the AC I will be going to an aluminum radiator and I do not expect anything will change cooling wise.  The copper/brass just can't reject heat as well as aluminum.

 
This is a good time to remind everyone why the factories used copper radiators for so long. Copper transmits heat nearly twice as well as aluminum. The reason aluminum radiators are popular is price, you can buy two, maybe 3, aluminum radiators for the price of one copper radiator .

If you are running a small Windsor and your cooling is marginal, it’s possible you could solve the problem by installing a four row stock style copper radiator. Of course, that copper radiator will cost $500-600.

One other factor in the copper vs aluminum choice for radiator material is that copper is significantly more corrosion resistant than aluminum. In fact if you are running an aluminum radiator you should also be running a magnesium sacrificial anode in the aluminum radiator.

Copper does conduct heat better than aluminum (about 100% better), but that's only half the story, because copper radiators aren't all copper.  They are soldered together with lead, which is horrible at conducting heat (less than 10% the thermal conductivity of copper).  They have steel side channels (a bit more than 10% the thermal conductivity of copper), and brass end tanks (about 25% the thermal conductivity of copper).  Its therefore tough to say how good a copper/brass radiator is from a thermal conductivity standpoint, because you have to look at more than just the difference between copper and aluminum for the comparison to be accurate. 

This is also a largely irrelevant consideration because cooling to a large extent comes down to surface area.  Copper/brass radiators use 1/2" tubes where aluminum ones use 1" tubes.  From a surface area comparison a two row aluminum radiator with 1" tubes has the same surface are as a 5 row copper radiator with 1/2" tubes.  This higher surface area also exponentially increases the fin to tube contact area, which is a direct measure of a radiator's ability to radiate heat.  Finally, aluminum radiators use a 3/8" tall fin vs. a copper radiator's 1/2" tall fin, so in a radiator of equivalent size the aluminum radiator has significantly more fins in each layer of the core. 

In summation, though aluminum may be less thermally conductive than copper; aluminum radiators significantly outperform copper radiators of the same size, regardless of the number of rows in the copper radiator's core, because of the design differences in the way the two types of radiators are built. 

Compared to an OE aluminum radiator with epoxied on plastic end tanks I must give the edge to copper/brass in terms of longevity.  BUT an aftermarket aluminum radiator that is fully welded will not have this disadvantage.  I've also always had factory radiators of the plastic/aluminum type go at lest 7 years, and the cost of replacement is fairly low (the one for my F250 Diesel was less than $200). 

Aluminum is more likely to be corroded by coolant that has been allowed to go acidic, but this is also going to effect your timing cover, intake manifold, cylinder heads, water pump, and any other aluminum part in your engine.  A sacrificial anode is not a bad idea regardless of what type of radiator you run, and its also a good idea to change your coolant regularly to prevent it from becoming acidic. 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (7/20/2019 5:01 PM)

 

7/20/2019 6:13 PM  #14


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

Do you think there is any advantage in painting the radiator black?


70, ragtop 351W/416 stroker Edel Performer heads w pro flow 4, Comp roller 35-421-8. T5
 

7/20/2019 7:11 PM  #15


Re: Thinking about Air Conditioning

HudginJ3 wrote:

Do you think there is any advantage in painting the radiator black?

 
I’m assuming you are referring to increasing the thermal emissivity by moving the coefficient of emissivity as high as possible. First you have to use radiator paint only and as little of it as possible. The studies I have seen on the subject usually call it a tie. The paint coats the tubes and reduces the heat transfer, but the unpainted tube will eventually oxidize and the oxide acts as an insulator too. A painted copper radiator usually looks better. Aluminum? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

 

Board footera


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