Rosehill performance.  Glen and Steve are forum members and will help you out.

Steve69 wrote:

retired 65 wrote:

Does anyone know of someone or some company that offers a kit to install an external slave cylinder for hydraulic clutch actuation?  The application would need to be for a '65 with a 4speed top loader.  I am totally fed up with the hydraulic release bearing set-up.  Thanks Jerry

  

What kind of issues are you having Jerry?   I was looking at something like that for my 69?
 

All kinds of problems.  Mostly can't get system bled of all the air.  I on my 4th 12 oz. bottle of brake fluid and still don't have a release of the clutch.  I've followed everyone's instructions as far as I can tell on setting up the release bearing for proper clearance, proper stroke of the master cylinder linkage and getting air out of the system.  I have a full shield bell housing which requires pulling the trans each time I have to do anything related to the release bearing.  Had one line with a hole in it which needed to be changed which meant needed to bleed everything again.  System just way to temper mental.
 

With your aftermarket bellhousing you may be able to use a pusher or puller external slave depending on if the bell has provisions for the ball used on the cable-type forks and/or the pivot used on the 60's style.  I went back to a 66 bellhousing with my TKO and a different input shaft to save some precious space.  You can drill the factory bell for the ball but I chose to use the 68 small block fork.  I did something similar on my Cobra after failing the hydraulic TOB 3 times (goofy square o-rings).  On the Cobra, I tied one end of the Wilwood slave to the transmission cross member and the other used a ball-like setup on a slightly shortened fork.  Even though it is best not to tie one end to the other side of a mount, it worked great.  The mounts were still enough that there wasn't enough trans movement to affect the clutch.

For the Mustang, I shortened the fork by 7/8" for header clearance and a ratio that would need less slave cylinder travel.  On the TKO, I was able to fashion a bracket a that attaches to the output shaft housing.  The pictures I'll attach aren't perfect but you'll get the idea.  I used the Speedway slave cylinder at $35.00 but if I have to replace it I'll get the Wilwood.  I gravity bled it and it worked right off the bat.  I will probably re-make my rear bracket to get a straighter pull but I have tested it and so far so good.  I did re-clock the inlet and bleeder after the pictures for a better hose position.

For ease of installation and off-the-shelf parts you may want to go with the puller style that uses the cable fork.  It took me an hour to fabricate my brackets so the cost was pretty low.

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GPatrick wrote:

With your aftermarket bellhousing you may be able to use a pusher or puller external slave depending on if the bell has provisions for the ball used on the cable-type forks and/or the pivot used on the 60's style.  I went back to a 66 bellhousing with my TKO and a different input shaft to save some precious space.  You can drill the factory bell for the ball but I chose to use the 68 small block fork.  I did something similar on my Cobra after failing the hydraulic TOB 3 times (goofy square o-rings).  On the Cobra, I tied one end of the Wilwood slave to the transmission cross member and the other used a ball-like setup on a slightly shortened fork.  Even though it is best not to tie one end to the other side of a mount, it worked great.  The mounts were still enough that there wasn't enough trans movement to affect the clutch.

For the Mustang, I shortened the fork by 7/8" for header clearance and a ratio that would need less slave cylinder travel.  On the TKO, I was able to fashion a bracket a that attaches to the output shaft housing.  The pictures I'll attach aren't perfect but you'll get the idea.  I used the Speedway slave cylinder at $35.00 but if I have to replace it I'll get the Wilwood.  I gravity bled it and it worked right off the bat.  I will probably re-make my rear bracket to get a straighter pull but I have tested it and so far so good.  I did re-clock the inlet and bleeder after the pictures for a better hose position.

For ease of installation and off-the-shelf parts you may want to go with the puller style that uses the cable fork.  It took me an hour to fabricate my brackets so the cost was pretty low.

chemical makeup of aluminum upload images when should you drop collision insurance

   Good Work GPatrick! 
 

Congratulations, it is looking super clean.

Daze wrote:

Rufus68 wrote:

Contact DazeCars.  He's a member here and has created kits.
https://dazecars.com/dazed/test.html#3
https://dazecars.com/dazed/home.html

............. might be able to get it built and tested after the football season.[/color]
 

 
Uuuhhhhhhhhhh, yeah!........What else you gonna do with -40 degrees and 6 feet of snow??!!!