So my next plans are to make a cart I think for the time being to hold my car up and probably replace with a whole new trunk floor with transition pan? That or since I havent dug into the drivers side yet by the rear seat vrace so maybe I could get a way with patching the brace one passsenger side. Patch the transition pan. Then definitely install new trunk floor left and right plus trunk braces and support plus change the the trunk to gas tank panel.  Its not to bad further up toward the top. Lol

King Tut’s vacation tomb?

Do yall think with small amount of pancake rust on that rear floor pan above the torque box maybe a sure sure sign I may need to replace my torque boxes. I looked in the leaf spring pocket underneath the car and its really clean. Im thinking im gonna make a small wood stand that will have a notch in it so that I could raise then lower my cars frame rails on to the wood stands. This way the majority of the car would be supported and I could remove my rearend  axle housing. Then with the rearend out of the way I could then buy a new sand blaster and blast the underneath of my car and where ever else I need to. What yall think?

Did the trunk floor in my car, purchased all the pieces then built up the assy.
Saved a good chunk of change,
If you need to change the taillight panel removing it makes installing the trunk floor much more pleasant.
Any question you have feel free to ask 

Cman

What type of spot weld drill bits do yall like. Ive used a Keysco 5/16" spot weld drill bit and also a  Blair rotary breach, dont care for the blair 3/8" rotary breach as much personally. I had a bad experience lol. I posed the clean photos dodnt think I should post the culy q of skin photo of before going to the Dr.     

This happened when I was working in a shop. My boss told me to cut off the 1/4 panel first then drill out all the spot welds up around whats left of the passenger rear 1/4 extension so we could install a full 1/4.  For some reason he said cut the panel off first then do spot welds personally I thinks that was bass awkwardness. I knew better i should've done spot welds first then cut the 1/4 off. After measuring the trunk floor  couldnt one simply take a sander grinder, then create a slit down the top of the rear frame rail then simply cut along the edge of where the floor starts to drop for the gas tank.  Then sand the top of the frame rail flanges eliminating alot of the spot weld id have to drill. If you having a hard time visualizing what I'm talking about. I used this same method when I removed the  1/4 paneles on SIMONE. Shes a Coupe so with the 1/4 window removed I used a 3" roloc and sanded down the mating flange where the 1/4 panel bends over and gets spot welded. Thus making it so you dont have to weld up holes in the brace. 

Last edited by True74yamaha (3/13/2021 11:32 AM)

Ay its just Flesh Wound! Lol I didnt wanna get in trouble for posting the bloody pic. The bloody pic looks like a lil pig tail sticking outta my arm.  The uncovered pic is like 2 weeks after. nurse cut the excess skin off and bandaged me up. He thought there were some metal fragments so he pulled at it and actually qas pulling on my artery you can see it in the pic. Kinda crazy needless to say im not a fan of the blair spot weld cutters lol. 

Last edited by True74yamaha (3/14/2021 2:34 AM)

I went with the floor and Crossmember kit from CJ pony as well as their Tail light panel. So I have a question are the raised bumps in the trunk drops what yesr are the on 69?  I was going to buy trunk support brackets but ill probably get them after I get my spot weld cutter. I was thinking I'd remove the package tray side Braces and then address the transition pan. Once thats patched or if I decide I want to replace it.  Then ill order a new transition pan and maybe spring for one that doesn't have the shock mount attached. Are you guys having any major fitment issues with any curtain brands on the transition pan? I can order either the Dynacorn for $248 on ebay or cjpony has theirs for $205.99

Last edited by True74yamaha (3/14/2021 11:18 PM)

I also purchased these 
how do you upload a photo to google images 

So I worked yesterday on my Birthday for a total of about 6 hours I started with my Rear Seat Passenger side support brace.  
I then proceeded to my trunk floor. I decided to try two different methods on removing the floor. I started by removing the bulk all the way up to the top of the frame rails. Then leaving only the top cap to the rear frame rails I then cut a slit down the top of the frame rail which was easy since my floor was crusty.lol then i just simply used a 5in1 painters tool and simply lifted the floor away popping spot welds. The only spot welds i really needed to drill out were the trunk braces. So a total of 9 spot welds and 4 stich welds in my case. 

Now I'm  at the cross roads in tearing down my floor. Like most Early mustangs my inner wheel wells lower flange is rotted. And now I'm debating mini tubing my car. I do prefer the look of a stock inner wheel well though some mini tub kits looks like crap IMHO any suggestions. Ive thought about just saving my inner since it seems fairly solid minus the lower flange..lol

 
I Made some more progress removing the old cancer from the rear my car must of started developing a leak in  maybe the rear window? The cancer was really only evident on the passenger side just rearward of the package tray brace where it mounts to the floor. The frame rails looks really clean!! I gonna remove and seal the frame rail before I install my new trunk floor.. even my drivers side inner wheel well is fine on the bottom except in the lower rear portion. Which can be easily patched. The Drivers side portion of the transition pan is really clean. Also with the metal having removed what I have of the transition pan I found the the inside shock mount portion is clean as a whistle. Which was surprising since my crusty portion on the trans pan i figured the upper shock mount would be bad as well. 

  google i want to see my pictures
 

Last edited by True74yamaha (3/29/2021 11:01 PM)