Rudi wrote:

Have you considered putting in the dual exhaust mounting GT spacers at the rear of the frame rails before the floor is welded in?

Thanks for mentioning that i wasnt aware of a spacer for GT exhaust I do plan on having dual exhaust and I do want it GT style through the Valance. I noticed that who ever installed the exhaust used some nut inserts in the frame that also act as plug in my frame which made it so it trapped water. I have slight pancake rust on. Both outer sides of the frame rail parallel to where the exhaust mounted. Is this a common spot that rusts? As the insides of my frame rails are really clean. Minus around leaf spring frame rail insert, I was planning on grinding out the bad spot on the frame rail and weld in a small outer patch. 

I managed to squeeze my car in the garage. I tore out the taillight panel today.

I was thinking an epoxy would be the best product to coat the inside of the frame rails as well as all my flanges in my car. Any good products out there for removing that ecoat on the new trunk floors brace and tail light panel? I dont really wanna sand blast the new panels. Should I just use lacquer thinner see if the the ecoat come off? or should I just prep them out with 80 grit and epoxy prime those panels?

I recieved my black SPI epoxy yesterday fast free shipping only took 3 days to get to my home in Salt Lake City. Now Ive almost striped the paint off all the panels that I can afectivally remove all the paint. Only places that need to finished out are the jewelry box of the car and the chassis. But those will have to wait until I pull my engine and trans out and get my rotisserie. I found the best deal for a rotisserie is on either lowes.com or Homedepot.com anyone here had good luck with having dustless sand blasting done? I dont really want my car to be like many others that puke sand out the frame rails from having sand blasting done. 

Ive decided now to go with full 1/4s I really hate how the top turned out from doing skins a few years ago. The only down side is hate how none of the full 1/4s have the right peak or even the right trunk line I personally think minus the but ugly weld job on my 1/4 skins the peak is  actually far better then some full 1/4s ive seen I thought that was really weird.  My cars coming along sort of its really hard to do much work on it since my Garage power isnt set up for me to weld right now. My parents have a detached 2,000 sqft garage that I have my car in right now. My main service line for the garage ended up sorting out. So my Brother went into Lowe's where I also work.  And purchased 250 ft 1/0 beleive wire a former associate accidentally shorted my brother 50 ft. Long story short we added a shed to the side the garage  and a new panel. Im not an electrician.  It sucks i think it would be the easiest to actually get a junction box rated for the hight amp wire then run from the junction box to the old garage main fuse panel. 

Does a replacement Coupe Roof come with the new drip rails attached to it?

Allot of work there.  I feel your pain.  Getting ready to do allot of sheet metal work myself.

Decided to go back and fix the pics on  this thread as it was when we couldnt post pictures.   

Glens 1965 50 wrote:

That is a nice strip down show there.  Allot of work.  Now is a great time to add speaker pods to the a-pillar apron so speakers are receded in the cabin area for the feet. FWIW.

 
Do you happen to have any pics showing what your talking about

Glens 1965 50 wrote:

Let me check my work computer and get back with you.

 
Thank you very appreciated

RTM wrote:

I'm having flash backs to when I did all that work to my 66 coupe.  When I replace panels I always try to do one side at a time.  Leaving one side on gives you a point of reference and less likely to move on you.  

It may be to late but I found removing spot welds from say the trunk floor was easier to just use my cut off wheel and pretty much grind the weld out leaving the frame rail surface intact.  It was much easier removing the roof panel with the cut off wheel because it fit nicely in the drip rail and I did not drill through any other panels.  My new roof panel came with the side sail panels but I do not think the side sail panels are sold separately.

I replaced everything from the firewall back, new rear frame rails, one piece floor, transition pan, trunk floor.  Left the original tail light panel in mine.  New quarter panels, inner outer wheel tubs but my inner tubs were the DSE mini tubs.  I also relocated my leaf springs inboard 3 inches on each side to take advantage of the mini tubs.

With the new quarters you may not have to add anything to the trunk drop panels.  All my stuff lined up pretty good with a little massaging.  I did find that the full quarter panel had a poor fit to the rear tail light panel.  What I found was the panels were not stamped well enough so it took a little work to get all of that to line up.  I see you left this part of the panel still on your car.  It may not be a bad idea to remove that part from the full panel and use the original end piece.

I also had to work on the bends in the door jamb and the bottom of the panel where it sits on the rocker.  I reworked these bends to get the body lines correct and the door gaps correct.

 
Do you happen to have pictures of when you removed the roof skin? I was thinking of maybe using a ziz wheel grind down the roof flange that ties to the drip rail. On leaving part of the quarter I plan on just removing it. Was thinking of keeping as the trunk to quarter edge always looks like crap on replacement quarter panels. They never have enough crown compared to the deck lid. Also thought I could leave it to keep my trunk lid corner by the rear glass now I see that it has to come off to be able to remove the deck lid filler panel so all the old quarters will be removed.

Got my cars Rear window filler panel removed. Now plan on sand blasting the cars package tray rear frame rails interior visible portion of the roof structure. Then I plan on removing the cowl hopefully the cowl base is okay from what I can see through the wiper arm holes it looks super clean. But I do know you really can't tell untill the cowl top is removed it could have pin holes.