speaker pods 




Here are some pics of the speaker recess.  We used SS dog bowls that we screwed and epoxied in.

Last edited by Glens 1965 50 (4/28/2022 11:11 AM)

Glens 1965 50 wrote:

speaker pods 




Here are some pics of the speaker recess.  We used SS dog bowls that we screwed and epoxied in.

 
That's a cool idea adding in the speakers with the dog bowls

I need to add. after this mod on the 67-8 car the inner support brace for the fender need to be notched for clearance on the speaker cover.  Check this before paint!

It looks like on my car that the underside of the cowl base is in really nice shape as seen from under the dash. Im thinking im still going to remove the top half of the cowl just to make sure its clean in side there plus then I can properly seal all the surfaces. Im also planning on using seam seal on my mating surfaces along with plug welds I plan to do this on my floor pans where the main floor ties into the firewall.  I remember in class at SLCC when I took the auto collison course that a joint with plug welds and seam seal is almost new looking after hours of being subject to salt and water. Only thing to remember is not to use to much seam seal or it will oose out the joints.

Does anyone here have pictures of a pillar repair? Im planning on bracing first then removing a small section of the drip rail. Then remove the A pillar outer or just weld in a replacement  section in the pillar after the drip rail removal. Im just seeing some rust form under the drip rail and I dont want it to get worse and have to remove my drip rails completely. I know my old bosses answer its a Coupe who cares fill it with seam sealer again those rails cant be fixed on a coupe. My answer why half axs fix the rail with sealer? But go to the extent of sanding every nook and cranny completely clean with 80 grit metal finish? When we can pull roof off and fix that rail. Bosses answer But is a Coupe. Shortly after finalizing the csrs paint removal and getting the car ready for next stage mocking up panels and seeing what metal work needed to be done. My ole Boss tells me you know. After seeing the Coupe sitting next to all these Fast Backs plus one 1967 GTO, my Boss tells me I really think I prefer a Coupe now. Crazy at that time My Boss had a 1967 Shelby GT:500, 1969 Mach 1 Drag pack car Factory Shaker, a 1954 Kaiser Darrin, and a 1968 Fastback originally  a 390 now has an alluminum 427 5speed and is built to look like a 1968 Shelby GT:500 came in as a really bad Eleanor Clone gone wrong.

Last edited by True74yamaha (4/29/2022 4:09 PM)

MS wrote:

Don’t you wish it was like Overhaulin’ where they say IT’S OFF TO MEDIA BLAST and then five minutes later the car rolls back in, totally cleaned up and bare?
And then, thirty minutes later, it’s off to paint.

 
Ha ha that would be nice right now as im trying to get my air compressor going to finish my sandblasting. I think after replacing the worn belts. Im thinking I need to go back and get shorter belts. I dont think theres enough tension to get the pump to work. It wont build pressure past 30 psi. I did develop an air leak so I plan on replacing the hose if I can find a replacement it goes in-between the pumps heads im having a hard time find a replacement. I think I may have to take the old hose to a hydraulic shop and have them make me a replacement. I also found my main oem t fitting off one head that feeds the tank is sorta filled up with carbon. I need to buy an oem replacement as its a special 3/4 3/4 1/2 tee fitting. I think my main issue is the belts. Maybe when I took them to autozone they had  to measure the worn cracked belts as there were no numbers. Atleast the replacement belts are close but need to be a little shorter as they still feel pretty sloppy when fully adjusted. Maybe need to get 1/2 shorter. If it turns out my pump is bad or something. I found a quincy qt7.5 pump for $300 its rated at like 23.7 cfm at 175psi it would be an awesome replacement if my pumps bad. Im hoping though that its the belts.

With this much work/time/$$ you have invested I would remove it.  Have done 1-2 cars where there was no rust visible and passed the water test just to start leaking 2-3 years down the road after the nice paint job. 50+ year old unprepped steel and a piss poor design to boot.

The process would've gone alot quicker if  I would've had the deck lid filler panel removed prior to starting. Almost fully completed sand blasting  then I will be ready to start tackling the metal work then body and fender work. Then prep and paint work. I have decided I will remove the roof skin by drilling out the spot welds in the front and read glass channel flanges. Then grind down the braze joints on the pillars then I will cutt off the roof skin flange that sits in the drip rail. I will try and only cut the roof flange so I can separate the roof akin from the car. Then I can clean and treat the roof structure and do any needed patching and metal fabrication thats needed. Then I will cut out bend then weld on a new flange for the roof skin. while the skin is removed I plan on fabricating a small roof skin patch. Also plan on removing a section of the drip rail so I can tackle fixing the srip rail and also fabricate a small patch for the a pillars. I Noticed some rust forming underneath the drip rail and the a pillar. I dont want that eye sore to show when the car is painted so I plan on fixing the rust with out butchering the drip rail completely. The biggest thing thats setting me back is getting my air compressor functional again. Needs to figure out what the issue is. Then I can finish sand blasting the car.

Question due to having the rear seat floor removed plus the transition pan and trunk sides. Im hesitant on finishing removing the roof skin. Dont want my car to start flexing around should I weld in some braces to hold the roof braces where they should be? I got a wild hair and just went for it on removing my roof skin. I thought I could drill and pop the spot welds on the rear glass and front glass flanges. I currently have almost all the rear glass spot weld popped loose and I have now cut along the drip rail on the passenger side breaking the roof skin flange loose from the drip rail. Went quick should've not hesitated on this area of my build has sorta prolonged build as I really wasnt sure how I wanted to remove the Roof skin. Seems likes it coming loose pretty easy. Im thinking I should be able to reuse the original roof skin by welding in a small patch section to passenger side sail panel section of the roof skin. Then ill also weld on new flanges on each side to re attach the skin to the drip rails when I go to reinstall the skin.

I would feel ok with those panels removed and the roof but only as long as the frame rails are secired and the front floor pan is secured.

Forgot about the second 3/4" tubing support welded vertically attaching to each rear frame rail. Bad pictures but all I have. I think it should be okay with the skin removed. I know I need to weld in a patch section in the a Pillars I will definitely weld in some extra supports when I get to that point. I plan on removing the drip rail sections that are attached the the A pillars. Then after welding in some vertical supports for the A pillars  then clean treat or weld in patch sections behind where the drip rail mounts. The drip rails are in amazing shape though.

I managed to remove the roof skin today on my Mustang. Don't tell anyone please noone has seen it yet.
I am pretty happy with the overall condition of the under structure. I will have to address the drivers side upper windsheild corner. Probably the reason why my car had a leak in that corner after the glass was installed when I first got my car going when I was 17yrs old. I regret not doing full quarters the first time around. So here I am now And I'm building my Car back to like New drivable condition or what ever yall wanna call it.

Thought I'd mention buy the harborfreight extended warranty for the sand blaster its worth it. I accidentally recieved a bad bag of blast media. First 1/2 was great worked as it should. Other half don't know how but the media got moisture trapped in the bag. Clogged the sandblaster that I bought. I should also invest in a screen that I could add to my funnel. Or a large funnel with a built in screen make work slower on the fill up but saves time in the long run. I ended up buying a new replacement harborfreight 20lb abrasive blaster with an upgraded nozzle found on Amazon.com. would also like to add wheels to the Unit maybe even add six small lawn mower or wagon wheels. That way the unit could be used horizontal or vertical. Reason I'd like to have it be capable of being used both ways is it would make it so I could easily adjust the bottom sand flow Valve. Yes it definitely reduces ball valve life but make the unit a little nicer some times. Would there be a stronger valve that I could add to my sand blaster that would enable me to adjust flow  rate easily?

Well im out of sand blasting material. I went ahead and started wire wheeling and conditioning disc the inner structure. The worser of the two sides came out pretty clean now I really just need more media to get the rest of the body and inner structure cleaned up then I can finally start primering the car.