Jim Bowie wrote:

I'm trying to find a distributor for a stock old school 1970 302, I would like to put the pertronix in it instead of points, seams like the aftermarket ones don't get very good reviews, any suggestion were to get stock distributors.or a rebuilt one, also need the cast iron gear,

Don't know where you've looked but usually the chain auto parts stores either have or can get reman units.  Rockauto.com also carries the same reman units for less cost - but there will be shipping added ([url]https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1970,mustang,5.0l+302cid+v8,1132467,ignition,distributor,7108[/url]).

Last edited by John Ha (3/11/2024 12:08 PM)

Is this for a non-roller-cam engine?

FWIW I've run a Pertronix for decades in the stock distributor and never had any issue.  I don't see any reason to add complexity to a system which works. 

Don't know what it's worth but if you can source a DuraSpark distributor for a 75 Maverick, you get the small cap.  I've had no issues with using the CarDone stuff - it's always been reliable.  If you have concerns, make sure there's a warranty before you buy so you can take it back if something's wrong.  Or you can buy it from a local chain parts store and pay more - but have the satisfaction of knowing that you can go and yell at a real person if need be.  

Everything for stock vehicles before the early 80's should have the iron gears, since the production roller engines first came out around 1985.

Or, you can use the "contact us" link on the Pertronix site to ask them about the gear directly - it's   https://pertronixbrands.com/pages/contact-us.  Give them a call or write them a note.  

I ran a Pertronix with a stock replacement style coil, an MSD coil (that I painted black and yellow to look stock), and a Pertronix coil.  The car ran the same with whatever coil was on it.  If starting clean slate I would use their coil from the get go for the same reason MS mentioned. 

I think the issue you have with with most remans is that most of the stuff gets reused.  The quality of the core basically determines the quality of the rebuild.  Given the age of even stuff from the '80s the core quality is going downhill as more and more cores turn into junk.  The rebuilders aren't going to replace the shaft, etc.  They may not even replace the bearings/bushings.  Best case they reject it if its junk, but my guess is in the time is money world the stuff doesn't get inspected all that well.

So a newly made distributor is in theory better, depending on where its made and the QC process involved. 

In the end its like everything else; quality is all about who's making it.  I typically will not buy something with a ton of lackluster reviews.  If most of the reviews (85% or so) are 4-5 star its likely good, and the bad reviews are based on operator error, erroneous ratings, etc. 

Based on the quality of their other products if I needed a distributor I would have no hesitation about getting one from Pertronix. 
 

Steve69 wrote:

MS wrote:

I just installed my second Pertronix III stock look distributor. So I have one in the 69 and one in the new 331 for the convertible. The III module has a programmable rev limiter in it. I got the matching coil. They said reliability is better if you use their coil that has the matching resistance for the module.
On the previous engine, in the 69, I used a stock 12v coil. All seems to be well. Both have the small cap.

I changed the 69 to Pertronix when a brand new Duraspark unit from Rock Auto was in-op right out of the box.

Side note: the 65 convertible has an old 289 in it with a stock points style distributor. It starts at the touch of the key and runs fine. Can’t wait to get THAT out of there!!🤠

   I was looking for recommendations in case this blueprint distributor gives me problems.  There good with a roller cam?
 

My Blueprint distributor has the PerTronix module in it and it looks like the PerTronix distributor. I would guess it is sourced from PerTronix.

There are two versions. The one with the Ignitor III in it has a steel gear. Might check to see if the other one has an iron gear. Both my  engines have roller cams in them

They may also feature a melonized gear, which is supposed to be universally compatible.  Another possibility is that even a roller cam can have an iron gear pressed onto them instead of having a steel one machined.  This allows running a regular gear with a roller cam.  Might check the cam card on the engine.  If its not spelled out the part number and manufacturer should allow you to track down whether or not that's the case.  Crane cams like this always have IG at the end of the part number. 

You'll need to check with the engine builder and/or the cam company. Sadly distributor gears are a giant pain. There's several types of material that both the gears and the cams are made out of. The non-roller = iron and roller = steel is for stock cams and stock gears. Melonized is not "universal", again call your engine builder or cam provider if you know who it is and you have the cam part#. I initially had dist gear problems on my 427w, 1st time was because the dist I bought was setup wrong and second time was due to wrong material. That's when I learned to CALL Comp Cams tech support vs emailing them...

On top of all that there's different diameters as well as needing to check the how it seats and fits. Here's a good .pdf file from Ford Motorsport as as as clearances and depth measurement. https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/pdfs/DistributorGearInstallation.pdf

Another good piece of info https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-12390-ABCDEFGHJKL.pdf

Last edited by Raymond_B (3/13/2024 7:22 PM)

Every source I've read said that while a melonized gear is not required on a cast iron cam; you can certainly run one without issue.  They were designed for ductile iron and steel roller cams.  So, if you have a flat tappet cam made from cast iron and an iron distributor gear you don't need to change anything (or a ductile iron or steel cam with a cast gear pressed onto it).  If the cam is ductile iron or steel you need a different gear, and a melonized gear would be a better choice than brass, which you'll be lucky to get 10,000 miles from.  Composite is another option, but are a no-no on an engine with a HV or HP oil pump. 

Raymond_B wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Every source I've read said that while a melonized gear is not required on a cast iron cam; you can certainly run one without issue.  They were designed for ductile iron and steel roller cams.  So, if you have a flat tappet cam made from cast iron and an iron distributor gear you don't need to change anything (or a ductile iron or steel cam with a cast gear pressed onto it).  If the cam is ductile iron or steel you need a different gear, and a melonized gear would be a better choice than brass, which you'll be lucky to get 10,000 miles from.  Composite is another option, but are a no-no on an engine with a HV or HP oil pump. 

The cam in my 427w has a billet core, I called CompCams and the guy looked up the part# and recommended melonized which has worked flawlessly. I only say this as I refuse to trust anything (especially internet recommendations, no offense) except what the cam manufacturer recommends after my mishaps. 
 

It NEVER hurts to ask the manufacturer. 
 

Jim Bowie wrote:

I was told that the Pertronix kit will not work in aftermarket distributors

Seems strange, did they say why it wouldn't work?