FYI FORD MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum / I went through with removing the full floor pan im glad I did

**Posted by True74yamaha** 5/06/2024 12:06 PM

I own a 1965 Mustang Coupe I had discovered the I had rot along my transition of there the floor meets the firewall. I had this problem on both sides of the firewall. I had had the drivers side previously replaced but the repair want done correctly so I decided to go about with new firewall exstentions. I opted to buy new floor halfs ad after cleaning the floor I realized I had some pitting on the passenger side floor. I have yet to remove the passenger side floor. I currently pre fitting new floor halfs. I really only need the front drivers side section as the previous repair was over trimmed. But made it easier to remove the whole floor with both front floor halfs being removed. Having the entire floor removed is making it alot easier to work on fitting the floor halfs. Debating using them the stampins are so different the spot the seatbelt mount actors to is in completely the wrong location.
It's looking like repairing in sections yields a better better repair. And probably alot easier. The floor pans have a problem sitting flat at rhe rear of the pan where rear passengers feet rest. I'm thinking I'll use tbe front section of tbe drivers side floor pan. I still have my passenger side floor pan section and is in good enough shape that it could be reinstalled. The passenger side is over all in great shape for the age. I think it could be sealed and left with its minor pitting and still last for years to come. Or I could try and use the remainder of the new floor pans. I think if I use the rear sections of atleast the passenger side pan ill try and keep the stock seat belt mounts. And try and cut out the new floor pans close to the stamping on the floor rather then section it on with using the tunnel curve

Last edited by True74yamaha (5/06/2024 12:26 PM)

**Posted by True74yamaha** 5/06/2024 12:08 PM

I think the poor fitment of the new floor halfs is due to making then tall enough to replace the trans tunnel. I plan on adding in full length frame rail connectors think I want to go with the ones made by UScartool for 1965 Mustang convertibles. And then add the seat reinforcments and one here replace their seat pan reinforcment on the 65-66 convertible? I'm curious of the reinforcments fitment. I'f they fit poor ill go with the USCartool coupe or fastback framerail connectors. If I go with the convertible option I plan to modify rhe frame rail connectors to look closer to the front seat pan reinforcments that come stock. I think adding a 2"x 2" square tube to the inside of the frame rail connectors thought it might be a good idea.

Last edited by True74yamaha (5/06/2024 12:25 PM)

**Posted by Greg B** 5/06/2024 1:21 PM

I think I have a pair of those or some that are silmilar to them. I got them and I briefly looked to see how they test fit and they interfered with the global West connectors I already have welded on. I can't say for sure, but I think they just wouldn't squeeze under without manipulating. I also vaguely remember holding onto them because I was going to see if I could put them in from the top.

I like how they are from fitting and tie the back subframe to the seat pan. I hope I can make them fit together.

**Posted by Greg B** 5/06/2024 1:26 PM

If anyone is wondering what these type of subframe connectors look like.

**Posted by True74yamaha** 5/06/2024 1:44 PM

I also plan on adding in front torque boxes in both sides of My 1965 mustang coupe.

**Posted by Greg B** 5/06/2024 1:50 PM

free image uploader

Now I am remembering what the problem was.

**Posted by True74yamaha** 5/06/2024 1:53 PM

I dont know why but im but a young jedi and you are a master. I can't figure out how to post pictures.

Did you install new floor pan rear supports? I love the look of what you have installed.

**Posted by Greg B** 5/06/2024 2:45 PM

Those are not my pictures. They are pictures of the subframe connectors I bought, hoping to supplement the Global West connectors I already have welded on. I don't know if there is much I can use of them, because there is no way I am removing the Global West connectors. I did devise a way to slide the floorpan in by curving it with ratchet straps enough to slide in place.

My convertible is sitting in my driveway on a rotisserie wrapped up in tarps with the back half of the floorpan and part of the front cut out. I kept the seat riser in to keep it from twisting. I have brand new full floorpan, seat riser top, and bottoms. It's all Pretty much where it stopped in 2017. Don't need to discuss why. But, I am getting very interested in finally getting back on it. Everyone heals at their own pace, is all else I want to say.

**Posted by True74yamaha** 6/05/2024 10:31 AM

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I know the gap on the drivers side where the new pan fits to the tunnel will need a metal strip added. I thought I had it in the right spot but then realized the new pan wasn't sitting flush on the transmission crossmember so I had to cut my weld and also cut a slit in the pan to get it to fit flush on the crossmember.

Last edited by True74yamaha (8/11/2024 4:56 PM)

**Posted by True74yamaha** 8/11/2024 4:47 PM

**Posted by 6sally6** 8/11/2024 5:47 PM

True74yamaha wrote:
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I know the gap on the drivers side where the new pan fits to the tunnel will need a metal strip added. I thought I had it in the right spot but then realized the new pan wasn't sitting flush on the transmission cross member so I had to cut my weld and also cut a slit in the pan to get it to fit flush on the cross member.

Hey....it 'ain't nuthi'n butt arn'.....
my motto..."cut to suit---beat to fit" applies a LOT when working sheet metal.
Besides...carpet is gonna cover a LOT of mistakes.
Keep moving forward !
Looks good to me
6sally6

**Posted by BobE** 8/12/2024 6:46 AM

Big time effort, looks good for all the reasons Sal mentioned.
Good luck going forward.

**Posted by True74yamaha** 8/25/2024 10:42 PM

Spent a little time tack welding and finish sanding this portion of the floor pan it had some pitting I didn't like but overall the floor is really nice shape. I sand blasted the pits earlier to clean out any rust. Went smooth I had my miller turned up to 16 gauge number 6 to really penetrate and feather edge in its coming along few small dents I need to take out because it's the largest portion of the pan that will be seen. And I want the underneath to look just as nice. I plan on metal finishing my floor so the underneath looks really nice. Anyone think a air chisle Pointed attachment shortened and welded to a threaded rod might work well for a nice pointed tip for a metal finishing bullseye pick?

**Posted by True74yamaha** 8/25/2024 10:49 PM

Before picture. I also wire wheeled to to clean the pits. But I had previously sandblasted the pitted areas in the floor.

**Posted by RTM** 8/26/2024 5:30 AM

Motivational progress. You’ve got some time invested in the floors.

**Posted by True74yamaha** 8/31/2024 11:44 AM

Some time not to bad I used wire wheels scrapers a 7" resin fiber sanding disc along with other sizes to strip the paint off. It went relatively quick may 30 minutes max to bare steel. Biggest amount of time has been in sanding welds. I'm maybe into the floor 1.5 hrs total.

Last edited by True74yamaha (8/31/2024 12:33 PM)

**Posted by True74yamaha** 9/01/2024 6:58 PM

My new transition pan it is overall pretty close to that of an original except one fairly maybe large set back ill let you be the judge. Any advice is appreciated. The the trans tunnel hump sits way to high in comparison to the original and also wider and maybe slightly offset.

**Posted by True74yamaha** 9/01/2024 7:26 PM