FYI FORD MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum / rear block oil plugs

**Posted by 1fststang** 1/05/2019 3:21 PM

Prepping my engine so I can install it.

It is a dart shp block and looks like the trans plate is hitting the rear oil plugs. Looks like the rear oil plugs are sticking out a little further than where the plate needs to sit flush. These are the three near the cam plug.

I was going to remove them but they are tight as heck. Keith Craft probably put Loctite on them. I was thinking remove them and grind them a little shorter so they will go in flush. Thought about just grinding the part that is sticking out a bit and do that without removing them.

anybody else ran in to this issue?

**Posted by Bolted to Floor** 1/05/2019 4:41 PM

Those plugs stuck out a ways on my 390 too. My trans plate was drilled to allow the plugs to pass through. I think that would be an easier fix for you.

What I don’t remember was whether it was the Ford plate or the one that came with the QuickTime bell.

**Posted by TKOPerformance** 1/05/2019 4:51 PM

Apply a little heat to the plugs with a propane torch and they'll come right out. They should be installed with something like Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket. I've never used Locktite on those and never had one back out. I'm not super confident in Locktite's ability to be oil tight (it probably is, but I know for 100% certain that Form-A-Gasket is).

The bores are probably not tapped deep enough to allow them to sit flush. When I tap those passages in an engine that had press in plugs I run the tap in a bit, test fit the plug, and continue tapping if needed to get them flush. The only caveat to that is beware of intersecting oil passages. You don't want to allow the plug to seat too deeply and risk blocking an oil passage. Sort of academic, at this point I certainly don't recommend trying to tap the holes any deeper due to the risk of metal shavings getting into the engine. I'd just remove the plugs and grind them down as needed.

**Posted by 1fststang** 1/05/2019 5:14 PM

drilling holes in the block plate might be a easy fix I didn't think of. I'll either try that or put a little heat to them as suggested and see if I can remove them and then grind them shorter. thanks

**Posted by rpm** 1/05/2019 6:57 PM

How much of an interference are we talking about?.050", an eighth inch? Lay a straight edge across to check the interference. If it's just a bit, can't you clearance them while they're still in the block? Just don't knock them down to where an allen wrench can't get a good grip.

**Posted by Raymond_B** 1/05/2019 7:06 PM

1fststang wrote:
drilling holes in the block plate might be a easy fix I didn't think of. I'll either try that or put a little heat to them as suggested and see if I can remove them and then grind them shorter. thanks

Yeah no doubt, I mean they are not far enough out to interfere with the flywheel/flexplate right? That would have to be an awful lot!

**Posted by 1fststang** 1/05/2019 8:22 PM

If you put a straight edge across the block they stick out maybe just over 1/16". where they interfere is the block plate that goes on before the flywheel.

**Posted by 6sally6** 1/05/2019 11:43 PM

Grind-in-place.....1/16" off and the wrench should still have plenty of depth in the plug.
Think you will EVER be pulling the plug again?
How old are you?
How many miles before you do a complete tear-down again?
How often do you drive the car? Daily driver or weekend toy?
jus say'in
6sal6

**Posted by MS** 1/08/2019 7:18 PM

My Keith Craft DART block had same issue. I took a cutoff wheel to the block plate and removed that area. No problem!

If you have a DART block, did you check for timing chain clearance? Note I had to grind the aluminum block for the chain to not rub it. All parts were supplied by Keith Craft. I have also experienced this with original 351W blocks. That is why I know to CHECK EVERYTHING before assembling an engine.

**Posted by BobE** 1/10/2019 8:25 PM

If you do decide to remove the plugs, consider replacing w/hex-countersunk plugs. These should provide the clearance needed.